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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.
Casual Sunday + long haul flight =
Elio, my brain wants to hate that club shirt, but I actually like that fit.
The nice thing about suits is that they were invented so that an alteration of the same basic silhouette can be flattering to 95% of the population. And most of the critiques on here are based on the clothes, not the body underneath. So a comment like shoulders too big, hips too wide, etc is about an issue with the tailoring, not the underlying body. Unless somebody's being a jerk, but the jerks tend to get excluded fairly fast.
For example: You and I have got different body types, and so we need slightly different silhouettes. I'm too skinny, so I tend to wear suits that make me a bit wider -- with slightly extended shoulders, and a fairly loose chest, but a waist which is cut fairly close to my own. This makes it look like I have broader shoulders and a bigger chest. This isn't so different to how the Duke of Windsor dressed -- and it certainly worked for him: if you see a photo of him in a suit, he looks like a well-proportioned little Nazi creep, but there are photos of him in a bathing suit, and he looks like he's auditioning to play Skeletor.
Now, the Duke was having those suits made bespoke by a master of the "drape" cut, so his were reliably perfectly proportioned. You and I (if I recall correctly) both buy ours in thrift stores. That means that sometimes our coats have too much of a good thing -- and though it's tough to judge from your pictures, it looks to me as if there's too much drape in the chest of that coat, and that the shoulders are simply too wide.
If you look at where the chest of your suit meets the armhole, you'll see a little vertical fold. If you scroll up to southernstyle's post shortly before yours, you can see a nice example of drape in action -- his overcoat has a dramatically draped chest (which overcoats usually need), while his suit has a very clean chest. The tricky thing with drape, of course, is that it can make you look a bit top-heavy, and it often looks too big.
In combination with too-wide shoulders (look at how the right-hand sleevehead doesn't sit cleanly), the overall effect is of a suit that's too big, especially in combination with trousers that need more tapering (they cover too much of the foot at the moment) and may need a little less room in the seat (this is a possible cause of the diagonal folds at the knee).
I mostly agree with CM's advice about the shirt and suit, though I'm not as concerned by that as he is, but I do think your tie is a bit much. Those shiny jaquard weave silks aren't a patch on a grenadine, repp, or printed twill, in my admittedly not-humble-enough opinion. The square is both a pattern clash with the tie, and a formality/seriousness clash with the overall rig.
So, none of this is meant to discourage you in any way: this is a forum that tends to drop a little too much knowledge on people just starting out (I plead guilty), but there are plenty of places on here to learn about silhouette and fit. As you do that, you may want to stick to the basics of furnishing your tailoring.
Today I hosted a competition at the Club. As Captain I had to send everyone off and join the field as last out, we came third. It was bitterly cold in the end, bitterly cold, wet, windy, snowy! NVMD.
Aye, Cap'n. Aye!
I miss @Holdfast
Don't we all.
TH, one way to approach finding your sweet spot is to look at a few posters whose silhouette you like and think you might be able to approximate.
Then I suggest going to a place that has quality suits and trying different models on. This will train your eye to find a cut that works for you. It's really about visual learning and that requires experience with helpful and knowledgeable feedback. Take pictures of the ones that you like the best, and post them in the Noodle's advice thread (not here). You'll get fine advice from friendly folks.
I still think that you might do well to size down on your suits, but I mentioned that before. Not a lot of bright red tie love in this Forum (as opposed to burgundy/wine).
Small thing: if you feel that the look is boxy, might I suggest a four-in-hand knot? This will give a little break in symmetry (see Cleav's elegant knot above).
This is great advice. This is what I did early on (and still do with some posters).
Excellent as always Cleav. I wonder how the same fit would look with a semi-spread instead of a spread collar.
Phew. Where does one start?
The first three photos - one suit and two overcoat shots - are fine. But the two I've spoilered above just don't work.
In the first, I count no less than nine colours, only one of which is repeated (suit colour also seen in the tie florets). The shirt is independently hideous - looks like a convict's jumpsuit - and cannot be saved.
The second combines a really nice, textured chalkstripe suiting material with a shiny tie of ghastly hue. The club collar fights against the sharp angles of the lapels and the chalkstripes.
There's just no coherence whatsoever, in either fit. Sorry.
I picked up this "green" sport coat last week. I used artificial light to take these pictures. It looks more teal than green. I love everything else about it. It looks more green in natural light. I think. My minds playing tricks on me.
Well done as usual AAS. I can't quite tell, are the pants brown wool?
Thanks. Yeah. The pants are dark brown flannel.
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