Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.
good idea, what would you recommend? bar lacing (or whatever you call it)?
Can either of you give suggestions on the different ways to lace dress shoes?
I use bar lacing (dont know if that's what it's called, but it sounds good) for balmorals. And something similar to what he did for some of my bluchers. Looks better with bluchers because if the increased space between eyelets. Use bar lacing for other bluchers.
? haven't heard these expressions
Yes altho I think MC formality is seeing a bit of a resurgence. Bespoke (&MTM) shopfronts run by young guys like Oscar Hunt and Patrick Johnson here in Oz, for example. StyleForum.
linen square here, IMO
I made up the terms. All I mean by them is the change in ideas of dress and style that started in the 60s. So, a suit by a designer, say, Rick Owens, and I choose that example only because he is popular now, should not be critiqued in the same way as a suit by, say, Rubinacci, who purports to carry on a tradition, or a suit from a Savile Row firm. Rick Owens is using the suit as inspiration, and using the language of the suit to suit his needs. He is not trying to make a suit in the traditional sense, and actually, would probably have failed if he made a very good traditional suit. His silhouette looks nothing like classic proportions. His is an exaggeratedly slim jacket paired with pants that are voluminous, but come to a sharp taper. And often paired with sneakers that are deliberately cartoonish. It's a rough but evocative sketch. His suits, and the suits of other designers, should probably be seen more like the reinterpretation of the suit by Coco Chanel. If Chanel had made a suit for a woman that looked like a man's suit, but for a woman, she would have failed.
Yes, there is a resurgence of classic menswear "style". But that should not be interpreted as a movement back to something, but rather, as the next stage in moving away from the suit as a standard uniform. It's becoming more and more a point of reference and a source of inspiration, than something ubiquitous and necessary. Wearing a suit, for many younger men, is a expression of personal style. Some guys wear optic white sneakers and Hood by Air (if you don't know what it is, you might want to spare yourself). Some guys wear #menswear suits. Some guys wear CBD suits. I think that this development is a welcome one. I wear leather and jeans, but it would be a boring world if everyone chose to to dress like me, or me like everyone else.
Here's a link to a website with many different ways of lacing......
Thank you, gentlemen! That's very helpful.
Question is, are the Rick Owenses and the Thom Brownes just contemporary versions of Edward Sexton in the 70s or Armani in the 80s? i.e. abberations in the force, if u will.. culs-de-sac that no-one will venture down ever again. Or are they part of general move forward? I suspect they're a gimmick, while true MC keeps on keeping on.
Armani and Edward Sexton both have had lasting effects on menswear and the idea of the suit. And while the influence of Armani has been seen in more subtle guises in the 00s, in this decade (his use of beige and grey and crepe has never really left us), his influence and that of other 80s designers are in full evidence in this generation of young designers. Anyone from the 20s transported into 2015 would not find anything that more than superficially resembles what they were used to wearing.
As for someone like Thom Browne., you see his influence even here, in our temple. In les anciens temps, the question was "full break" or "half break". I scarcely see either anymore. It's more like "barely a break" or "no break. Yes, these things have previous precedents, but the trend right now is easily traced back to Thom Browne. That, or everyone had the same idea at the same time.
A truism is that you can't stop the future from coming.
Good fit, but I think the very light pocket square doesn't work that well with the dark jacket and tie. Something closer in uh... darkness? would have looked better imo.
Very nice! Looks inconspicuous, but on closer inspection there are at least three patterns in there.
Same here as with heldentenor: a darker pocket square would have balanced the look better.
But it led to this very Italian hand gesture!
I if only could own one tie, it would be this one. Works with just about anything, and ties a superb knot..
Looks very sharp, and cozy for a Minnesota Winter day. And I really like the way the lapels fit on you.
hahahahaha holy shit are you people really that worried with what is the least consequential, visible aspect of your outfits? hahahahahaha no fucking way... I refuse to believe it.
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