Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.
Love the jacket and trouser combination. That's right up my alley.
thanks for the insight. I did not know this
Home run, Spandexter.
Quote: BTW this was ever so slightly tongue-in-cheek. I'm sure you all realised that. As a recovering dandy, I am unlikely to be the person enforcing apparel "rules".
Girlfriend caught me fixing myself
^ would Spandexter's jacket be considered to be at the very short end of the wearable spectrum? I ask because I recently bought a jacket on Ebay (From GMMcL actually) which fits me about the same, at least lengthwise.
Are you asking because of how it looks in relation to his thumbs in the second pic? If so, I think that's deceiving because of the position of his arms. Actual length looks totally fine to me.
...or he could just have some pretty long arms.
Jacket looks bespoke but unsure if it is or not.
I don't think the jacket is short, I think his arms are long. Looks fine to me, btw.
I thought that too, I was always taught that a jacket would fall into your cupped hands and his doesn't look like it would. Then I looked at the true measure of a coat, that it covers your posterior and this jacket looks like it does. So he probably has long arms, but that jacket looks awesome.
IMO, minimum length should be that which covers your rear end. When viewed from the front, if the jacket hem hits the crotch of your trousers it will assure that your rear is covered.
Thanks for the thumbs and comments guys. Jacket is OTR Boglioli. I have long-ish arms for my size so that may be a factor in it looking slightly short.
Yes, the ‘cupped hand rule’ was in part a marketing invention which went viral with the mass production of ready-to-wear suits and jackets. It made it possible for untrained salespeople at department stores and similar retail establishments to at least get within the right ballpark, which is where generations of men got most if not all of their information about fit. The problem with it is that arm length can vary significantly between men of the same height.
The ‘cover the buttocks’ in the rear and ‘to the point where the two trouser inseams meet’ in the front is pretty much the ‘neutral position’ for tailors, on the other hand, who may then shorten or lengthen things a little bit if needed to accommodate aspects of the client’s physique.
Note, however, that certain aspects of the cut can create an illusion of shortness, especially in photographs, at least until one looks more carefully; the more open the quarters, for example, the more likely this momentary illusion.
Personally I've never put much in that rule. I went by it when I first started buying jackets but I soon found out that if I followed it too closely I ended up looking weird. I can totally see it being something for untrained employees to go by.
From Despos's website (unavailable right now): 'A good rule of thumb is that the two-button jacket should cover your seat by 1".'
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