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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr.K, Mar 25, 2011.

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  1. JapanAlex01

    JapanAlex01 Senior member

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    Ninja edit: fluffy bunnies…
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2011
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  2. sellahi22

    sellahi22 Senior member

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    Spoo's outfits consistently have too low waists and buttoning points, and his lapels never sit flat on his chest. Those are the two systematic flaws that I had in mind. The problem with luftvier's outfits, and the reason why I think they are inferior to Spoo's or even Nii's, is that they are frumpy and dull. A food analogy would be gruel, whereas the Spoo/Nii approach would be like some OTT deep fried syrupy Thai fusion mess. Neither are optimal but if I'm going out to eat I would choose the latter every time, at least until I'm in my 50s. I understand the trad aesthetic that luftvier is going for, but that's no excuse for not looking smart. Just as you can't thrift some ill fitting Borrelli and Kiton jackets and match them with ugly accessories and then appeal to a list of Neapolitan style icons as some sort of justification of the style.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2011
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  3. JapanAlex01

    JapanAlex01 Senior member

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    While I'll agree that I have noticed Spoo's buttoning points to be somewhat low, it is hardly a 'systematic flaw'! :rotflmao: Spoo is taller, so, ergo, I believe that is what he's focusing on, in that regard. luftvier's are more, well, badly shaped, IMO—I think suits are meant to fit to the shape of your body—but, then again, that's his aesthetic, I suppose.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2011
  4. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    1. You are right about the lapels and low waists, Im on board with this. New purchases inbound and future projects have this fixed. Until then, I know you know I know you know, so it is what it is.

    2. I like food analogies very much, and funny enough, I am having Thai for dinner this evening. :lol:
     
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  5. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^^

    you are basically saying that lufty is not well dressed because the outfits are boring and dull, which honestly makes no sense, apart from it being your taste/opinion.

    The problem with a lot of people here, and I won't get into names, is that they substitute flash and "sharpness" for being fundamentally well dressed. Most of the praised outfits here are too tight, have too many patterns/colors and are just wrong from a classic clothing perspective. People here pile the "flash" on, super antiqued shoes, very slim clothes, 6-8 different colors in an outfit, 5 patterns and in the mist of all that are typically suits/jackets that are too tight across the shoulders, huge tie knots that overwhelm the shirt collar, ultra spread collars that take no consideration for the wearer's face and sleek shoe lasts that look clownish on the wearers foot.

    A lot more people would benefit from going to a back to basics approach as Lufty has, and building on it. Style has to come from an understanding of the basics and growing from there. It is something that I find myself doing now also within the realm of my daily wear and I find that it helps me better put together my wilder stuff when I wear it. Some people here have regressed, looking more like they belong in Pitti rather than on a style forum.
     
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  6. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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    love the SC details please!
     
  7. sellahi22

    sellahi22 Senior member

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    I agree that my assessment of luftvier's outfits as frumpy and dull is only my taste/opinion, nothing more.

    I understand what you are saying about the fundamentals of fit, pattern coordination, etc. In a previous post I said that iammatt has done a great job recently of reminding the board of these forgotten principles. However, it's important not to lose sight of a basic goal of dressing, which is to look smart, well put together, attractive, aesthetically appealing, etc. etc. These are all obviously subjective standards but it's important to have some conception of the goal in order to have something to aim for.

    The problem in this thread, as ID'ed by you and iammatt among others, is that people are shooting only to look smart/cool/etc without any grounding in the fundamentals and don't properly understand how the fundamentals can assist in getting there. That's why the board has suffered with the reduced posting volume of vox/iammatt/foo/etc - these guys have mastered the fundamentals but also put together really beautiful outfits. Someone like luftvier, in contrast, only gets fundamentals (though not really, since his jackets are too long, shoes too bulky, trousers too shapeless, etc) but nothing really beyond that.

    Again only my opinion, I have no objective facts to point to in support of my argument.
     
  8. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think there's tendency for many here (me included) to strive for "perfect fit". So we spend lots of time at our tailor's nipping and tucking until every bit of slack has been trimmed. We can end up looking a little too "body-conscious". Over time I've realized the best fitting clothes are those which fit close or "perfect" in some places (collar, pants waist, jacket length) but are relaxed (or imperfect) everywhere else. Both comfortable and visually relaxed. It's also important that the original silhouette of the suit show through and not be too far adjusted in any direction. I am in the large-head camp with Nii and Foo and am also short, so it's always a challenge get the proportions right esp. when buying off the rack. So, I compromise when I need to and more often just wear stuff that's not totally ideal, but that's just what I have.

    Maybe matt or others can expound on what makes a great fitting suit better than I can. But, I think a couple of the reasons he (and I) like Luftvier's suit is that it's not overly altered, fits nicely in the shoulders and looks relaxed in a dressy way. It's also a nice color and pattern combination. Not too matchy and nothing screaming more than the rest.
     
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  9. jj-moody

    jj-moody Well-Known Member

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    Oh those are the systematic flaws, I see you are still of the mind that your wording is apropos. I have to check the waists on Spoo's outfits in a bit, but by too low a waist do you mean he wears his trousers low rise? Do you think he wear his trousers on his hips rather than around his natural waist? I don't completely follow. Also, trouser rise is not a rule, it can be variable according to the person's body. Some can wear it at the natural waist while others might wear it an inch or so below the navel. It really depends on what looks best. The only black and white kind of judgement I can think of is that you shouldn't wear your trousers on your hips like jeans. Is this what you are getting at?

    As for low buttoning points and lapels sitting flat, buttoning points have been dropping and dropping for years now. And flopping lapels, I certainly did not notice. I would have to revisit that. But those are not mistakes that would indicate deep fried tastelessness.

    Your analogy was as amusing as it was inelegantly bombastic. I take by deep fried you mean coarse and lacking refinement. If that is the case then your fits must have all the grace and majesty of the most esteemed bespoke makers. Anyways, those weak pejoratives are best suited for stylistic choices rather than problems with fit. If Spoo fixes his waists and lapels, then would he, according to your logic, be caviar? And then, even if we are to consider style, I don't recall any garish stylistic flourishes from Spoo or Niidawg. This all points to one thing--your latest criticisms have been haughty and useless.

    And, if luftvier enjoys his fits then all the power to him. I just hope he isn't buying those suits off the Savile Row because he can get them for cheap OTR.
     
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  10. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

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    Parker hit the nail on the head in describing Lufty's BB Madison look as relaxed but dressy. A well-cut suit, nice fabrics, and reasonable pattern-combining look unfussy and unself-conscious. It's an aesthetic I like a lot. Ed Morel also exemplifies this look.
     
  11. jj-moody

    jj-moody Well-Known Member

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    Fit is the most important element. An improper fitting Kiton is not a good look, even if it is a Kiton. Boring clothing choices (the gruel that the other poster was referring to) can look sharp when fitted properly. And that is why sellahi really doesn't know what he is talking about. Boring choices are smart when the fit is right.

    As for edmorel, lufty is not building on any back to the basics style. I think this is very confused and deluded thinking. Luftier's fits are lazy. There is no silhouette, and it is neither offensive nor nice. It is also a generic fit. As for the people who substitute flash for being well dressed. Question one, how is the fit? The other criticisms of style are debatable.

    I think Victor is a good example. His fits are good and his style can be at times flamboyant. But it works because it fits well. And it is an example of being well dressed. Mute his colors and simplify his patterns if you like--but that is a subjective stylistic choice. His fits are still very good and that does put him ahead of some posters like mafoofan. Mafoofan's stylistic choices are conservative and muted, but his fits do nothing to work with his body type. He often looks like he is wearing flippers and his head looks very large. Victor's clothes complement his body type better.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2011
  12. freedom_fries

    freedom_fries Senior member

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    i like victor's taste in clothing very much, but i think his tailor could do a better job of complementing - and not just moulding to - his body type.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2011
  13. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Most of Victor's jackets look too snug for my taste.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2011
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  14. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^^

    I don't think you know what you are talking about but I'm not going to go on a back and forth about it. You don't like the way lufty dresses, but he does and he is comfortable wearing his clothes. A lot of "good" dressers here let the clothing wear them.
     
  15. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    fuck, you give so much thoughts into this and you press your feet into shoes lika sausage? you lost me on this.
     
  16. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    I look fantastic today.
     
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  17. jj-moody

    jj-moody Well-Known Member

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    Powerfully articulate. I like the way you called me a poopy head and then ran off with a cliche. Yes, lufty's clothing wears him because he is an inert mass that just rolls around in his suits.

    Comfort and choice are appreciated. If lufty is completely happy with his suits then he is better off than most. But if we are talking about a good fit, then his sartorial choices run counter to that. Very simple.
     
  18. davesmith

    davesmith Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    and i thought i was mean sometimes [​IMG]
     
  19. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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  20. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I am wearing a twelve year old t-shirt and 1.5 days of non-showering. I smell fabulous.
     
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