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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr.K, Mar 25, 2011.

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  1. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Actually, as a point of history, the English outdoor sporting jacket—including the “hacking” (riding) jacket, as well as the Norfolk, shooting, and others— has historically tended to have a single vent. This point can get lost in Flusser's description, but note his use of the singular noun 'slit'.

    Here’s Hardy Amies (British, of course) on the subject of the single vent from his useful (and often amusingly opinionated) ABC of Men’s Fashion (1964):

    Center Vent
    The vent is actually a slit in the middle of the back of a riding or hacking jacket designed to allow the skirt of the jacket to spread freely when you sit astride a horse. It can help the jacket of a suit in much the same way, and in any case adds a touch of style. For riding, a center vent must start at the waist. In a suit or sports jacket it should be seven or eight inches long.”

    Here are a few other relevant entries from the same book.

    Hacking Jacket
    Do not think this is just a sports jacket with a slit at the back. In order to allow you to sit comfortably astride a horse, it is cut with a wide, longish skirt, and the center vent at the back starts at the waist to allow that skirt to spread.”

    Side Vents
    Side vents are short openings at the bottoms of the two side seams of the jacket. They are usually no more than about 3 inches long, and on a sports jacket they make it a semi-hacking style. They tend to be out of place on single-breasted lounge suits, but they can be effective on a double-breasted jacket, where a center vent would appear unbalanced.”

    In any case, the English riding coat traditionally has a single vent. These days you can buy a side-vented jacket, but it’s a relative latecomer to the English scene, being a bit more formal and worn more in lower-level dressage (in the highest level of dressage one wears a tailcoat, of course). But then dressage itself was a latecomer to the English riding scene, and to this day English riding still tends to be dominated by hacking.

    On the subject of vents more generally, another Englishman, Nicholas Storey, in his History of Men’s Fashion, (2008), summarizes his view on vents this way:

    “The modern convention for vents is that a single-breasted coat has none, one or two vents, and a double-breasted has none or two vents, as you wish.” p. 41.

    I think that’s probably close to majority opinion these days.

    History aside, these days individual body conformation can matter in making the choice. For example, Despos, whose expertise is beyond question, remarked that side vents might not be optimal for people who “weigh over 300 lbs or have disproportionate large/wide hips.” See this thread

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/388685/vent-preferences#post_7110084

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2014
    2 people like this.
  2. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Am I the only one having problems with this thread not adding additional pages to account for new posts? I am currently viewing page 5231 out of 5230 total and am reading post 78456 out of 78450. The only way to access this page has been through my subscriptions by clicking on the most recent post itself. Anyone having similar issues or have any clue at all what I am talking about?
     
    5 people like this.
  3. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @Holdfast Buttoned, with a Nehru jacket :)

    [@]Kylerton[/@ ]Double vents, usually.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    This has been going on for about two days now. You're right, to get to the most recent post you need to click on that post, not on the page number.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yup, same for me. Annoying.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @Kylerton, in my experience, it's difficult to get single vents to lie properly unless you have a relatively flat ass (for RTW at least). Even a hint of, as you say, caboose calls for double vents.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. upr_crust

    upr_crust Senior member

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    The model name is Downing, in striped sassafras (yet another form of medium brown tortoiseshell) - not far off from the style of Duckworths. They arrived this evening - will model in due course.



    I also am getting the annoyance of not being able to see the latest postings. I did discover that, if you attempt to post, it will show you the latest posting in reverse order, including the ones that won't display otherwise. Perhaps time to restart this thread - iteration #4, I believe?
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2014
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  8. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    I believe it only happens for like the first 4-5 postings on a new page. Then it seems to correct itself, at least until the next page. I don't know if there is any sort of correlation, but I believe this began happening around the time that Clags started deleting posts . . .
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

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    Watermelon. Square is yellow gingham.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    9 people like this.
  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Good morning!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    SF Family:
    Henry Carter (tie)
    Howard Yount (square)
    WvG (pants)
    Unipair (shoes)

    Stick it where the sun don't shine.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2014
    27 people like this.
  11. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

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    Outstanding. [​IMG]Where's the jacket from?
     
  12. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Looks good, but you should do a close up shot of the upper to capture the fabrics a bit better. --> oops, I see that you did; looks great, as I suspected. Did you add the second pic in after, or is it something funky at my end?
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2014
  13. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Clags is a chronic post editor. [​IMG]
     
  14. 9thsymph

    9thsymph Senior member

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    I agree as well, but if Perols don't work out try Moscot...
     
  15. 9thsymph

    9thsymph Senior member

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    Always side vents for me...It just makes for a better fit/silhouette...
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Good morning! PS was trying to jump out this morning, but I only had time for one quick pic...

    [​IMG]
     
    28 people like this.
  17. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    I'm not sure if I like your shirt, or your tie or . . . .

    This is just fabulous, lol. Well done, good sir!!
     
    2 people like this.
  18. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Mmmmmm dem shoulders. :slayer:
     
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  19. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    When a fit is perfectly executed, rules/guidelines get damned.

    @EliodA, excellent as usual and keep showing us how to rock unstaple items.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2014
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  20. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    13 people like this.
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