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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr.K, Mar 25, 2011.

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  1. arnathor

    arnathor Senior member

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    The resolution of the shot doesn't show the fact the shirt is an oxford, or at least oxford-y texture. so based on what you've said it should go together a little more in this case?
     
  2. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    Ftfy ;)

    (PS: 'course you meant it that way. just to make sure we're all on the same page.)
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  3. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If that's the case I don't like the fact that it is a spread collar. Buttondown, baby.
     
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  4. eviltimeban

    eviltimeban Senior member

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    You see, this is a look I really like - light blue tie, white shirt, navy jacket. This is what I was wearing the other day, but I got a similar response - they didn't like the tie, or that the tie is too light for the navy. I don't think so, I think it looks good and Clags has shown this again.
     
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  5. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Since we're on the subject of length. I'm still trying to understand this. I know general rules as far as coat length (cover the ass/go to the knuckles) but then when I see the above and many other fits barely covering the ass I second guess those rules. It seems SC's are being cut much shorter nowadays and their fits still getting high praise. Is there some exception to this that I'm missing? I'm not saying I dislike the above look but it just goes against what I know. Edit, I guess it's hard to tell in the above pic.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's a nice look, but difficult to do without being too plain (which is a different from boring, which can be connoted positively as soporific)
    The tie is cotton as opposed to silk, adding visual interest that may not be apparent there. An old picture of it, closer up (and when I was moderately bearded)

    [​IMG]


    Had his hands not been in his pocket, and the shortness of the jacket obvious, I'm willing to be that look would have gotten a lot less love.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
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  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Length is a weird thing. Commenters have their own ways of assessing it based on things like where the hem is in relation to the wearer's hands and such, but that is inaccurate due to some people have shorter or longer arms and hands. Also people forget that some people have longer or shorter torsos, the same for people's legs. To really assess length you have to look at the whole picture, the entire height of the person and even how fitted the garment is to assess it.
     
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  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Clag, the tie is nice. It is perfect for the spring.
     
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  9. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Where I live they do, anything looser would be considered baggy.
     
  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's what I meant!
     
  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Assuming that you're talking about jeans, I'd say that's the case for most of Europe.
     
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Doesn't make it right.
     
  13. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

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    I can wear a beach-y sweater in Ohio on 60°F days, right?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
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  14. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    That would look much better with beach-y trousers. These are much too dark and formal for the light sweater.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
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  15. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not sold on that fit, Moss. I can't tell what kind of pants those are. If they are chinos that's fine, but the sweater is way too casual if they are anything dressier. Also, that sweater is way to casual for the ocbd under it. I would wear that sweater without a collared shirt under it. Also, I think charcoal pants, or jeans would look better with the sweater.
     
  16. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

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    That's what I was afraid of!
     
  17. SeaJen

    SeaJen Senior member

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    I have noticed a number of fits getting a lot of praise when I thought the jackets were laughably short, but then I remember that I'm old.
    Regardless of the temperature, I'm retiring the winter wardrobe completely this weekend (thought that happened last weekend, though). One just gets too bored wearing the same stuff over and over.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like it Sea, I just think it would look better if it was an OCBD bengal striped shirt.
     
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  19. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    casual fit like Robs89's a shorter jacket is a must IMO. tight pants sticking out of a longer jacket's [​IMG]
     
  20. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    +1000

    Flusser’s worth quoting on the length issue, because what he has to say is pretty much what a good tailor would say:

    “The principal criterion governing a jacket’s length is that it be long enough to cover the curvature of the buttocks while giving the leg as long a line as possible […] Two methods for determining the correct method originated with America’s development of ready-made men’s clothing, which needed general guidelines upon which to establish its standards of fit. The first employs the arm as a guide; when your hand is dropped at you side, the bottom of the jacket is supposed to line up with the [knuckle of the] outstretched thumb. Though generally reliable, this formula has one drawback: arm length varies from person to person. The second approach measures the distance from the jacket’s back collar (the point at which it joins the coat’s body) to the floor, which is then divided in half. This is the procedure taught in most tailoring schools. Either of these two approaches can be influenced by dimensions unique to the wearer; a top tailor will use neither, trusting his practiced eye to take in the whole picture before deciding on the jacket’s ideal length.” — Dressing the Man, pp. 40-41.

    Notice, please: (1) the first criterion is that the buttocks be covered; (2) the most frequently cited criterion, the thumb knuckle, is actually the least reliable and has its origins not in tailoring but in marketing; (3) the half-way-to-the-floor criterion is one taught to tailors (but only as a first approximation subject to adjustments to accommodate the individual).

    Since most photos on SF are from the front, it’s not always possible to know with certainty if a jacket is properly covering the buttocks. A reasonable substitute is to see if it covers the crotch: does it extend to the point in the vertical dimension where the two trouser inseams meet.

    The most important point, however, is the one I put in bold type (the same can be said for buttoning points, but that’s a different discussion). One dresses an individual, not an ideal.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
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