RDiaz
Distinguished Member
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- Nov 12, 2011
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There's nothing I intend getting altered on that jacket; so for my level of tolerance, it's A-OK. You might be right about some of those points; as I said, I don't propose it as a "perfect" fit, but rather, a fit I'm happy with & consider fair value. Perhaps that's a slight abdication of responsibility, but what I mean is that as the shoulders (and amount of skirt flare at the hips) are good enough for me, I can't see the point of going through the time/effort of changing them as I won't be any happier than I already am. The only point I'd differ with you on more objective level, though, is that the vents really are lying as flat throughout their length i.e the bottom of top layer makes direct continuous physical contact with cloth of the underlying layer. That's enough for me. If it were a thin fabric, or pressed very flat (taking the life out of the body of the cloth), you wouldn't see the thickness of the fabric at the rolled edge of the flap, which I think it what you're noting, as it casts a slight shadow.
On your other point of sharing a similar body habitus; yeah it's a PITA for clothes, isn't it? I have a fair amount of lordosis, with a much more minor/slight scoliosis, which impacts on the rest of my posture in the expected compensatory way. Not to the point of causing any physical problems (though I suppose in a few decades time, it might) but definitely at the far end of the spectrum of normal range of back curvature.
I'm sure it's exacerbated by leaning over when typing, and using a mouse. For the first time in a few years, I haven't any big writing projects in the pipeline, so hopefully that will ease off slightly. I do find that being consistent in doing stretching/yoga exercises limits its deterioration and can even temporarily correct it. I've been a bit sloppy with doing them recently, and have noticed the back being slightly worse. Interestingly, these minor changes are first noticeable in how they affect the fit of my bespoke jackets, so it's actually quite a sensitive way of reminding me when I've been slack. My RTW and MTM stuff has a much greater tolerance before their fit is affected. Perhaps that's part of the reason I'm not quite as demanding about the initial fit; I hadn't thought that before, but I suppose it's possible. Maybe I'm just relatively easily pleased (though of course, I'm still quite neurotic it compared to the average customer, I'm sure!)
In contrast to my comments regarding the green one, there is one marginal/non-urgent, area of fit that I do intend asking about on this one. There's a very slight horizontal roll a few inches below the collar. None of us noticed in over a couple of fittings, so it might just not be sitting quite straight on me today and will therefore disappear by itself over time. I'll probably have another look when the weather becomes too warm to wear the jacket any more, and if it's still there, take it back for a review. No biggie; part of the process once in a while, as far as I'm concerned.
Finally, just for fun, I've re-uploaded an old robopose pic from about 15 months ago, of my last bespoke suit order. It has the same basic jacket fit as these, though obviously as a 3B rather than 2B. You can actually see the areas that have been tweaked since then (for example, the right upper arm and shoulder is a little cleaner now). I didn't notice that correction until I looked back at this pic; tailor must have made a note without my realising, I suppose. These things are always a work in progress, it seems.
More importantly and depressingly, I note that my bald spot has grown ever larger in the intervening time...
Fair enough; if you're happy with it, it's a rather good fit anyways. I was just being overly picky because of its bespoke nature. The gaping vents might not be such, but rather the way they are shaped to conform to your physique (which is a good thing).
In my case it's not lordosis, it's extra fat in the area, but the result for clothes is the same. I have to get jackets that don't have much shape to their back to help camouflage it; that may make me look a bit bigger overall, but more proportioned. It's the same principle I apply when buying rather full trousers. This point seems to be well illustrated in your other two roboposes; the older suit jacket, while not as flattering as your new jackets in the front view, is a lot more flattering from the side. The bottom "flares out" much less.
Using a computer for long periods of time creates all sorts of posture irregularities; I have a much lower and forward thrust right shoulder due to this, and it also caused my posture to become sort of "stooped with an erect neck", which is very hard to fit.
That roll below the collar should be an easy fix
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