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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III

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patrickBOOTH

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I feel like with tailored clothing people's eyes want to see a nipped waist and a silhouette that us elongated and slender. In attempt to satisfy the eye people generally wear jackets that are too tight to accentuate this look, or even make themselves look less wide and more tall. The only thing that this does is make you look uncomfortable, restricted, and wrinkly.

One thing that tailors do, bespoke ones, is try to nail down your proportions and fit you in something that is flattering to your physique. There are various ways of doing this, but sticking to the topic, you can achieve an hourglass shape, (which is what most people want to see) by adding fullness and fabric to in distinct areas of the jacket such as the chest to give the illusion of more waist. This is only one example. But all in all a garment should "fit" the same regardless of silhouette one is trying to achieve. The critical areas being the collar on the neck, shoulder protrusion, sleeve pitch, balance and so on.
 

sugarbutch

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In short, if your trousers are so tight that they cannot drape in a smooth line, then they are too tight.
 

bernoulli

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Coming back from a business day trip. Suit is WW Chan, shirt and tie TMLewin, shoes Finsbury and cufflinks from the market at the Shanghai Museu of Tech. Fabric is tone in tone and the most beautiful I have ever seen.








 

luftvier

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not everybody likes the American sack-fit.


No, I think I may be the only one. But I used to wear awful too-tight stuff like that too, and now I know better. Search the WAYWRN archives, you'll see the god awful **** I went out in.
 

Ant Honey

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This "It's European" is not an excuse for ill-fitting clothing. Everyone please stop saying this. It's not a preference thing, nor a traditional or regional thing.
 

Frankie22

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No, I think I may be the only one. But I used to wear awful too-tight stuff like that too, and now I know better. Search the WAYWRN archives, you'll see the god awful **** I went out in.
+1

Your clothes might be to tight if:
Your lapels bow out like a gaping....never mind
You have pulling where the chest meets the sleeve
Pulling at buttoning point (minor pulling is ok on DB)
Horizontal lines across crotch of pants
Pockets bowing out when at rest
Pants tight on calves
Looking like stuff suasage

I too realized the error of my ways. There is a difference between slim and tight.
If you're not a chick in a dress and or yoga pants, tight is not good!
 
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luftvier

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i don't necessarily think tight or baggy equals good fit.


Agreed, but I am talking about that too tight god awful size too small stuff I wore.

For review:

Tight ≠ good fit.

Baggy ≠ good fit.

Properly sized sack coat = good fit, even if one's not a fan of the silhouette.

An Anecdote I Think I Read Here a Few Years Ago About Size v. Silhouette said:
An Englishman walks into a French men's boutique. The Frenchman is wearing a fashionably cut "modern" coat and trousers, while the Brit's wearing a traditionally cut suit.

The Frenchman sneers and says: "What are you wearing? You've not any sense of fashion at all! Look at how baggy your suit is cut, compared to my modern fit. You look impossibly out of date!"

The Brit, stoically, retorts "Well, monsieur, I can alter the silhouette of my suit, if I care to. But you can't make that suit fit you," and leaves.
 
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