Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr.K, Mar 25, 2011.
Most likely it is too narrow in the chest.
Shame about the pic angle, because I suspect this looks good IRL.
I agree with most of your recent commentary in the thread, but don't buy this point. To me, tweed jacket plus fairly slim tan trousers has a vaguely equestrian country feel to it... sort of a sartorial echo/callback to riding jacket & jodhpurs. In that context leaving them without turn-ups feels very right. Of course, a boot rather than shoes would really have cemented that visual association, but even so, I don't think turn-ups are at all required for it to make sense visually. I'd feel even more strongly if the trousers were a cavalry twill, which I'd never get turn-ups on and think it looks really odd with them given its military heritage, but I don't think they are cavalry twill based on the photo.
Difficult to tell from the photo but I suspec the jacket fit is good. Colours seem a bit flat but that might just be the lighting. What does bug me slightly is the shirt collar collapsing in on itself. If this happens regularly rather than just being a one-off in the photo, consider a higher collar (if your neck is long enough for it to look good, of course). Sorts this out most nicely.
Today, a tie that SF loves to rag on, and I just love to wear.
You sound like you should be on the View.
I don't have the ego strength to wear this tie myself but I think it looks really good on you in the context of the nice pinstripe suit. I would likely wear a solid shirt with it but I am a tie/shirt coward .
Shirt (fine blue stripes), PS, and tie all from the Brethren. Click pic for a sharper image.
The associations I make with tweed are rarely equestrian-related, but that may be because I'm on the other side of the pond from you. There is no strong culture of Americans hunting or riding horses in tweed. It is just a more casual, rustic, abstractly countrified way of dressing.
Anyway, I don't think uncuffed trousers work well with rustic jackets associations aside. The problem is more aesthetic and fundamentally conceptual to me than anything else. A tweed jacket ensemble tends toward pronounced textures, patterns, and colors. It is visually much more complex than a typical business suit get-up. Streamlined trousers don't fit the context.
I'll take your word for it since it's obviously something with which you're quite familiar.
Foo - can your provide some examples of where the gorges should land? Or what are the particular rules in this regard for notch lapels?
I like the gorge line right on the collarbone. Trends have made it dip and rise over the years though.
I don't think there is a rule of thumb, as different gorge heights will suit different people. However, the overwhelming trend toward extremely high gorges has led to a preponderance of gorges that are comically high and implemented in total disregard of aesthetic considerations outside the trend.
I've noticed this as well... even brought it up to a few members. mostly thought I was full of it or they didn't know what I was talking about. goes along with that skinny lapel bullshit.
+1 ...good one.
Dont hate on me
Separate names with a comma.