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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr.K, Mar 25, 2011.
A plain, Brooks Brothers day. The suit ((BB Fleece) is dark charcoal with a light rose stripe.
He man, wish I could tie a bowtie like that. My bowties are sleeping in a drawer waiting till I dare to put one decently
Only 2 more days of being Mr. Mom.
Hoping to set all the sliders at the numerological value of 4, maybe 3.
Lisbon: Zoinks! That's some orange.
Spoo: I daresay that's encroaching on CBD.
Black Umb: I like it, but the shirt seems a bit city for your target, at least to me based on that picture.
Hmmmm...where do I start?
1. That jacket is not a 3/2, nor is it a "natural shoulder" either in the old specific Brooks Brothers sense or in the wider sense of having the entire curve of the shoulder seam into the crown knocked (ironed) flat. If you look at the arms crossed shot, it will be apparent to you that this is done pretty much the same as shoulders that some of you call "roped." The ridge is not as prominent, but basically, it is the same as most jackets made today.
2. While Spoo's hand is in one pocket, that jacket is already pulling at the waist. It has the tell-tale X at the fastening point, and a collapse of the pattern into the center. It does not need more "waist suppression," a term that nearly all of you use for simply taking in the sides at the seam. It might benefit from being let out, actually, not taken in, at the sides, but probably does not need it.
Many current active SF members prefer a jacket frontal silhouette in which there is a larger apparent shoulder:waist ratio and a square shoulder. Because heavy padding is "out of style" right now, you see tons of photographs (especially from the retail menswear world, Pitti, etc.) in which there are attempts (largely failing) to obtain that ratio by over-winching the waist. This looks horrible to me, so I would be the last to encourage anyone to go in such a direction. A jacket that catches at the waist is not a jacket that fits, nor would it seem likely to be a jacket that is comfortable to wear.
I think that it would be useful for many of you to think of this jacket Spoo is wearing today. I'm with those who prefer it to his others, but I also understand it undermines an artificiality of affect (e.g., a more padded, squarer shoulder offsetting the width of hips) that many of you associate and admire about a large number of Spoo's "fits." Neither viewpoint is correct or incorrect, it is entirely a matter of opinion.
Understand, however, that the other look comes not primarily from shrinkwrapping but from augmenting/squaring at the shoulders through various techniques. It's like falsies.
^ wow, thank you! I'm a bit tied up and can't give the proper verbal reply I'd like to, but here is a robot pose I didn't post yesterday if it helps clarify anything:
PS too matchy?
To all of you "waist suppressors":
When your jacket drapes more fluidly and effortlessly on its hanger than on you, guess what? Your jacket is too tight.
This is very interesting. So do you think it would be better to emphasize the shoulders by structuring and extending them a little (about half and inch) and using peak lapels that are a bit wider?
That's what I'll be telling my tailor to do - and I don't know if I'm doing the right thing. Spoo's jacket seems to make his shoulders look narrow compared to his hips, but as you've stated it doesn't look like there's much room for waist suppression...
True, a button-down blue oxford would have been closer, but it seemed a bit off. But is the shirt too off? Seemed better with the more structured shoulder of the SC.
Deets on tie, please.
Robo pose confirms it, Spoo. I wouldn't make any adjustments, other than sleeve length.
I think this was good for me to hear, I'm now afraid to try on some of my tighter SC's though
Should the coat not get any thinner than the shoulders?
It's my job to read minds, remember? No, I guessed you'd be thinking of it based on how you tend to like your clothes, which why I pre-emptively argued against it upthread. My reasons are much simpler and less articulate than vox's, though I think equally valid: the jacket looks proportionally comfortable on you as it already is. Don't fuck around with something that already looks right; it almost never results in incremental improvement.
Another casual and cold day...
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