• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

HOF: Labels, heels and nail patterns - Secrets to ID the maker

vestbash

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2013
Messages
635
Reaction score
827
Could someone confirm if these are (as I hope!) Edward Green for RLPL. I'm hoping the italic script with the "Made in England" means they are. Also would these actually be a UK 12, or a US 12 (UK 11). Just a bit put off by the E width.
Thank you

View attachment 1702389 View attachment 1702390
View attachment 1702391 View attachment 1702392
View attachment 1702394

These shoes are made by Crockett & jones for Polo (more on this below). There are a few indicators, but the most telling and easily identifiable is the script and method of writing the size markings & serial numbers.

Inside Edward Green for RLPL shoes, the size is indicated in both the UK size and the US size, where the UK size is written first, followed by a slash symbol, then the US size, width, and last.

So an EG shoe would be marked "10 / 10.5 D 89" indicating that the shoe is a 10 UK fitting D, 10.5 US, on the "89" last.

There are a small number of C&J shoes from the RLPL line, but if you look closely you'll see that your shoes have the "Polo" branded outsole rather than the RLPL branded outsole. So while your shoes are made to handgrade standards like the shoes from the RLPL line, your shoe is basically a high end Polo shoe with the RLPL heelpad. There are a few shoes that I've seen over the years that are cross branded in this manner. Either way you've got yourself a really good shoe.
 

Lucan

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2012
Messages
251
Reaction score
202
@vestbash Thanks very much for going into that detail, it's really helpful. I did always wonder about the dual sizes on EG shoes, so you've covered that off for me as well.
 

othertravel

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
9,963
Reaction score
3,851
These shoes are made by Crockett & jones for Polo (more on this below). There are a few indicators, but the most telling and easily identifiable is the script and method of writing the size markings & serial numbers.

Inside Edward Green for RLPL shoes, the size is indicated in both the UK size and the US size, where the UK size is written first, followed by a slash symbol, then the US size, width, and last.

So an EG shoe would be marked "10 / 10.5 D 89" indicating that the shoe is a 10 UK fitting D, 10.5 US, on the "89" last.

There are a small number of C&J shoes from the RLPL line, but if you look closely you'll see that your shoes have the "Polo" branded outsole rather than the RLPL branded outsole. So while your shoes are made to handgrade standards like the shoes from the RLPL line, your shoe is basically a high end Polo shoe with the RLPL heelpad. There are a few shoes that I've seen over the years that are cross branded in this manner. Either way you've got yourself a really good shoe.

Small correction. These shoes are not made to handgrade standards. The only handgrade feature they have a closed-channel sole, but that's about it.
 

vestbash

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2013
Messages
635
Reaction score
827
Small correction. These shoes are not made to handgrade standards. The only handgrade feature they have a closed-channel sole, but that's about it.

yeah, you're right. I shouldn't have simplified that point so much.
 

Schweino

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2008
Messages
1,603
Reaction score
2,902
Small correction. These shoes are not made to handgrade standards. The only handgrade feature they have a closed-channel sole, but that's about it.

For educational purposes: How do you know that and what are the diferences?
 

vestbash

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2013
Messages
635
Reaction score
827
For educational purposes: How do you know that and what are the diferences?

It varies from brand to brand, there is no universal standard for what is "hand grade", but generally speaking the amount of hand work, finishing, and overall attention to detail are greater than the standard offerings. In addition, leathers used for the uppers are more selectively chosen and the patterns and lasts will probably also be used more exclusively as the hand grade selection is often tailored for a more discerning audience. I think thats a fair general overview, if you chose a specific brand it would be a bit easier to zero in on the specific differences.
 

othertravel

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
9,963
Reaction score
3,851
For C&J there are a few things, including a slightly beveled waist, and better quality leather, and finer finishing. Also, the last tends to be a bit more asymmetrical on hand grade models.
 

Lucan

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2012
Messages
251
Reaction score
202
I believe these are Church Graftons, but could someone confirm if these are a 7 or 7.5? It looks like "75G" at the top left, which makes me think 7.5, but the alleged 5 is pretty small.
Thanks
IMG_5997.JPG
 

vestbash

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2013
Messages
635
Reaction score
827
I believe these are Church Graftons, but could someone confirm if these are a 7 or 7.5? It looks like "75G" at the top left, which makes me think 7.5, but the alleged 5 is pretty small.
Thanks
View attachment 1708487

You're correct, this greats 75F 73. So you've got a grafton on the 73 last in 7.5F
 

Lucan

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2012
Messages
251
Reaction score
202
I have these Jones the Bootmaker 'Bench Made' shoes. For our non-UK friends, Jones the Bootmaker is a low- to mid-end store in the UK generally selling their own brand. A few years ago they started a Bench Made range using Northampton shoemakers, and most of them are by Cheaney. I've picked up these, and am not sure if these are Cheaney. Most last numbers starting with 7 tend to be Alfred Sargent I find, so I'm inclined to believe they are the maker, but they also have a Grenson 'feel' to them. What do you think?

20220111_090351.jpg
20220111_090407.jpg
 
Last edited:

JonasSthlm

New Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2021
Messages
2
Reaction score
1
Hi,

I came across a suit claimed to be a Lanvin that made me suspicious. The general appearance is not in line with my other suits from them. And I have never seen a label like this in a Lanvin garment. But I might have missed some variants.

0AC9C6E4-7915-471F-AA89-997E7A573FB3.jpeg


How do you assess this label?
 

monkey66

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2020
Messages
611
Reaction score
2,357
I have these Jones the Bootmaker 'Bench Made' shoes. For our non-UK friends, Jones the Bootmaker is a low- to mid-end store in the UK generally selling their own brand. A few years ago they started a Bench Made range using Northampton shoemakers, and most of them are by Cheaney. I've picked up these, and am not sure if these are Cheaney. Most last numbers starting with 7 tend to be Alfred Sargent I find, so I'm inclined to believe they are the maker, but they also have a Grenson 'feel' to them. What do you think?

View attachment 1735085 View attachment 1735086
The print looks similar to Barkers.
 

Reosymes

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
1,360
Reaction score
4,328
Anyone recognize this? I'm thinking cantarelli, but I'm not sure. It's a faconnable jacket.

IMG_4126.JPG
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 36.2%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 59 38.8%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 11.2%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 26 17.1%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 26 17.1%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,158
Messages
10,578,889
Members
223,882
Latest member
anykadaimeni
Top