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HOF: Labels, heels and nail patterns - Secrets to ID the maker

vestbash

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Could someone confirm if these are (as I hope!) Edward Green for RLPL. I'm hoping the italic script with the "Made in England" means they are. Also would these actually be a UK 12, or a US 12 (UK 11). Just a bit put off by the E width.
Thank you

View attachment 1702389 View attachment 1702390
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These shoes are made by Crockett & jones for Polo (more on this below). There are a few indicators, but the most telling and easily identifiable is the script and method of writing the size markings & serial numbers.

Inside Edward Green for RLPL shoes, the size is indicated in both the UK size and the US size, where the UK size is written first, followed by a slash symbol, then the US size, width, and last.

So an EG shoe would be marked "10 / 10.5 D 89" indicating that the shoe is a 10 UK fitting D, 10.5 US, on the "89" last.

There are a small number of C&J shoes from the RLPL line, but if you look closely you'll see that your shoes have the "Polo" branded outsole rather than the RLPL branded outsole. So while your shoes are made to handgrade standards like the shoes from the RLPL line, your shoe is basically a high end Polo shoe with the RLPL heelpad. There are a few shoes that I've seen over the years that are cross branded in this manner. Either way you've got yourself a really good shoe.
 

Lucan

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@vestbash Thanks very much for going into that detail, it's really helpful. I did always wonder about the dual sizes on EG shoes, so you've covered that off for me as well.
 

othertravel

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These shoes are made by Crockett & jones for Polo (more on this below). There are a few indicators, but the most telling and easily identifiable is the script and method of writing the size markings & serial numbers.

Inside Edward Green for RLPL shoes, the size is indicated in both the UK size and the US size, where the UK size is written first, followed by a slash symbol, then the US size, width, and last.

So an EG shoe would be marked "10 / 10.5 D 89" indicating that the shoe is a 10 UK fitting D, 10.5 US, on the "89" last.

There are a small number of C&J shoes from the RLPL line, but if you look closely you'll see that your shoes have the "Polo" branded outsole rather than the RLPL branded outsole. So while your shoes are made to handgrade standards like the shoes from the RLPL line, your shoe is basically a high end Polo shoe with the RLPL heelpad. There are a few shoes that I've seen over the years that are cross branded in this manner. Either way you've got yourself a really good shoe.
Small correction. These shoes are not made to handgrade standards. The only handgrade feature they have a closed-channel sole, but that's about it.
 

vestbash

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Small correction. These shoes are not made to handgrade standards. The only handgrade feature they have a closed-channel sole, but that's about it.
yeah, you're right. I shouldn't have simplified that point so much.
 

Schweino

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Small correction. These shoes are not made to handgrade standards. The only handgrade feature they have a closed-channel sole, but that's about it.
For educational purposes: How do you know that and what are the diferences?
 

vestbash

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For educational purposes: How do you know that and what are the diferences?
It varies from brand to brand, there is no universal standard for what is "hand grade", but generally speaking the amount of hand work, finishing, and overall attention to detail are greater than the standard offerings. In addition, leathers used for the uppers are more selectively chosen and the patterns and lasts will probably also be used more exclusively as the hand grade selection is often tailored for a more discerning audience. I think thats a fair general overview, if you chose a specific brand it would be a bit easier to zero in on the specific differences.
 

othertravel

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For C&J there are a few things, including a slightly beveled waist, and better quality leather, and finer finishing. Also, the last tends to be a bit more asymmetrical on hand grade models.
 

Lucan

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I believe these are Church Graftons, but could someone confirm if these are a 7 or 7.5? It looks like "75G" at the top left, which makes me think 7.5, but the alleged 5 is pretty small.
Thanks
IMG_5997.JPG
 

vestbash

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I believe these are Church Graftons, but could someone confirm if these are a 7 or 7.5? It looks like "75G" at the top left, which makes me think 7.5, but the alleged 5 is pretty small.
Thanks
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You're correct, this greats 75F 73. So you've got a grafton on the 73 last in 7.5F
 

Lucan

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I have these Jones the Bootmaker 'Bench Made' shoes. For our non-UK friends, Jones the Bootmaker is a low- to mid-end store in the UK generally selling their own brand. A few years ago they started a Bench Made range using Northampton shoemakers, and most of them are by Cheaney. I've picked up these, and am not sure if these are Cheaney. Most last numbers starting with 7 tend to be Alfred Sargent I find, so I'm inclined to believe they are the maker, but they also have a Grenson 'feel' to them. What do you think?

20220111_090351.jpg
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Last edited:

JonasSthlm

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Hi,

I came across a suit claimed to be a Lanvin that made me suspicious. The general appearance is not in line with my other suits from them. And I have never seen a label like this in a Lanvin garment. But I might have missed some variants.

0AC9C6E4-7915-471F-AA89-997E7A573FB3.jpeg


How do you assess this label?
 

monkey66

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I have these Jones the Bootmaker 'Bench Made' shoes. For our non-UK friends, Jones the Bootmaker is a low- to mid-end store in the UK generally selling their own brand. A few years ago they started a Bench Made range using Northampton shoemakers, and most of them are by Cheaney. I've picked up these, and am not sure if these are Cheaney. Most last numbers starting with 7 tend to be Alfred Sargent I find, so I'm inclined to believe they are the maker, but they also have a Grenson 'feel' to them. What do you think?

View attachment 1735085 View attachment 1735086
The print looks similar to Barkers.
 

Reosymes

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Anyone recognize this? I'm thinking cantarelli, but I'm not sure. It's a faconnable jacket.

IMG_4126.JPG
 

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