HOF: Glossary of terms/ Best posts/ FAQ/ Links

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by j, Jun 8, 2004.

  1. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    On the suggestion of many users, I think we should get a full glossary of clothing terms put together with consensus definitions so that people can discuss things more easily and without confusion. Everyone post terms that are confusing or misleading and we'll get some discussion going on the definitions for them, then I'll edit it or get someone to edit it together into a HOF post so it will be easy to find for new people. Feel free to search the archives and web to pick out already posted definitions you think fit the bill and we'll collect them here and discuss them. Contributors will get credit for their definitions in the final post. For the sake of cohesion and easy reading I will delete replies to this topic that have been incorporated and credited in the original topic. -----The post in progress---- Definitions: Suit terms: Half-canvassed --
    Fused --
    Full-canvas (unfused) --
    "2 1/2 button" --
    Info: What you might want to specify in a MTM/bespoke suit:
    Concise definitions of a great number of footwear terms Ian Fieggen's Shoe Lacing site Fabric terms: A good dictionary of fabric terms is at this site. Pick your country and then go to the "Dictionary" on the left column. http://www.all-about-fabrics.com/index.htm (Thanks to Qasimkhan) Clothing Glossary: A far from comprehensive (but helpful nonethless) glossary, courtesy of the good folks at Ben Silver... http://www.bensilver.com/style04/abo...thingTerms.htm (Thanks to Keith T) Tailoring terms: From Kilgour French Stanbury's website, a glossary of tailoring terms: http://www.8savilerow.com/style3.html (Thanks to Chilli Padi) Fabrics: general info: Fabrics.Net (Thanks to FIHTies) Tie Knots: Good color shots of step by step knot tying as well as videos. (FIHTies) Tie Knots: Theory of Tie Knots and the corresponding PDF article. (faustian bargain) Apparel Related Glossaries from Apparelsearch.com Best posts: A. Harris's guide to antiquing shoes A. Harris's "Shoes explained" thread FIHTies's "Various types of ties" thread Manton's (Nicholas Antongiovanni, author of "The Suit")'s article on Suit Silhouettes Bespoke jackets: Darren Beaman's post on the making of a bespoke jacket Books on Clothing - and the Style Forum Amazon Store How to pack a suit for shipping How to measure suits for eBay (A Harris) Men's Fashion / Style / Clothing websites (Cherrytree et al.) Stain Removal: Versaceman's Stain Removal Guide A Tale of Two Shoes: Fixing a pair of Bruno Maglis - Photoessay by meaculpa Andrew Harris's bespoke suit picture listing Pronunciation guide to designers, brands, terms Ron Rider's guide to shoe care The (hopefully) definitive thread on NYC tailors The official thrift/discount store bragging thread Shoe Damage Report & Shoe Porn Central Shoe Damage Report & Shoe Porn Central - Part II The Watch Porn Thread The Manhattan Sales Alert thread Labels, heels, and nail patterns - secrets to ID the maker of your shoes, jacket or suit Comprehensive List of Links to High-End Shoes Shoe Pictorial Index The Definitive Guide to Slim Fit Shirts Official Events and PSA thread CBD WAYWRN: An Experiment WAYWRN (What Are You Wearing Right Now?) Part II WAYWRN (What Are You Wearing Right Now?) - Part III Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here
     


  2. JDMcDaniel

    JDMcDaniel Well-Known Member

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  3. 1Dgaf

    1Dgaf Senior member

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    I found this info on google groups: The quality of wool has always been determined by the fineness of the diameter of its fiber. The finer the diameter, the better the quality and the softer the handle. Beyond this point, however, no exact definition of wool grades exist and each country is left to establish its own criteria. In the case of the Supers (100,200, etc.), for example, it's nearly impossible for the consumer to understand the classification system. To avoid any such confusion, Dormeuil has always given quality designations for each Super in line with the UK NWTEC Code of Practice. The fiber diameter, which is measured in microns, is examined and calculated from the Wool Ecru Top. When the exact micron has been found then the wool is classified as in the chart. Quality Designation Means Fiber Diameter of Ecru Top (in Microns) Super 200s 13.0 Super 190s 13.1 - 13.5 Super 180s 13.6 - 14.0 Super 170s 14.1 - 14.5 Super 160s 14.6 - 15.0 Super 150s 15.1 - 15.5 Super 140s 15.6 - 16.0 Super 130s 16.1 - 16.5 Super 120s 16.6 - 17.5 Super 110s 17.6 - 18.0 Super 100s 18.1 - 18.5 Please note that there are a lot of custom tailors out there in the market that are falsely advertising that their materials are authentic Super 100s, 120s, and 150s. Moreover, they do not know the actual meaning of Super Clothes. You can tell that its fake if the material book contains the codes RD, KT, OM, LW, HW, KB are all false label Super Fabrics. La Rukico Tailors is the only tailor from Hong Kong who carries genuine Super Fabrics from Dormeuil, Holland and Sherry, Wain Shiell, and Scabal. Please forward this e-mail to everyone you know that buys custom clothing to prevent them from buying these fake clothes. La Rukico tailors is located at 145 E.48th St. Suite 7F New York, NY 10017 (212)832-0725 or call toll free at (800)284-SUIT [email protected] www.hongkongcustomtailor.com Yours truly, Mr. Kelly ___ Delete if inappropriate or if it's bullshit.
     


  4. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Shoefan's excellent explanation of bespoke, custom, and "MTM" footwear and the differences between them.
     


  5. Carlo

    Carlo Senior member

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    WRT Supers... the micronages look correct but the important point is that Supers are mostly hype.

    We're measuring one thing here - micronage. How about length? Elasticity and breaking strength? How about whether the wool was washed, dried, rested spun, rested, woven properly???

    On our last trip to Biella I really got to see the process done right at Carlo Barbera. Their 160's is more than twice the price of their 150s... why? Because it is a very special wool due to the loooong fine fibers. They only get a certain amount of it and when it is gone it is gone but the stuff has a hand, sheen and character nicer than the super 200's I've seen elsewhere and it does not fall apart under a needle.

    Remember - a good super 100's is a lot better than an average 130's in every aspect except for diameter of the threads. Cashmere illustrates this very well - the cheap crap is very fuzzy and feels the softest... that's the crap, the fuzzy nature is due to short strands. Compare that to the 'harder' worsted cashmeres of long fibers... they feel far less soft initially but get softer over time without pilling or wearing out.
     


  6. faustian bargain

    faustian bargain Senior member

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    this one just came up again: fifteen ways to tie shoelaces this and the tie-knotting white paper make for some pretty comprehensive reading.
     


  7. FIHTies

    FIHTies Senior member

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  8. faustian bargain

    faustian bargain Senior member

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    how do i link to a particular post? or is that possible on this board... anyway, RIDER's good shoe-care post is here: linky linky
     


  9. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Senior member

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  10. J.P. Myhre

    J.P. Myhre Well-Known Member

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    Shoemaking terms are difficult, one thing is that there are a few hundred of them, another thing is that they vary alot depended on where you are, even in UK, Scandinavia, or German. The following source is quite good, based on the generale british shoe-terminology. The dictionary is written by Tony Garley and he has many years of experience in the trade. The first edition is printed in 2001. Produced and published by AM Garley, 32 Brooke Road, Oakham, Rutland, LE15 6HH, UK. ISBN 0-9541647-0-9. WWW.shoe-patter.com, or you can find the dictionary at website; www.bespoke-shoes.com very shortly. For the time being under construction, but will be operative within a few weeks.

    Patter
    The cant or secret language of thieves or beggars, "pedlars French"; the perculiar lingo of any profession or class; any language not generally understood.
    The Oxford English Dictionary

    Enclosing a detailed picture showing what shape I am looking for with two different tools in my hand. To acchive the zig-zag pattern on top of the welt I normally use either a "fudge wheel", or a "stitch pricker". The pricker is not a wheel, but a tool, usually made out of a 7"inch nail with a filed V-groove at the end and a handle in the other end. Both these tools are used to shape the welt and stitches and make them waterproof with wax. The other tool I use is the "edge-iron". This to make a light concave shape on the edge of the sole.

    [​IMG]
     




  11. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  12. Rekevalate

    Rekevalate Active Member

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    Does anyone know what roped shoulders are?
     


  13. gamelan

    gamelan Senior member

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  14. kenk_wa

    kenk_wa Member

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