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HK Tailors: A-Man Hing Cheong and WW Chan

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whoopee, May 22, 2006.

  1. Get Smart

    Get Smart Senior member

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    your Chan suit reminds me a bit of the one BrianSD wanted to order from him (altho his wanted thinner lapels and flap pockets if I recall correct)....but both Chan and the other guy do look very handsome. I like the overly suppressed waist, as it seems to suit your frame very appropriately. Also agree on the very cool tie.

    Out of curiosity, what are your jacket/trouser sizes? how tall are you?
     
  2. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    GBR the Chan suit is the first bespoke I have with two ticket pockets because I requested it this time. I didn't ask A-Man, and it's not standard in my experience.


    Very useful in my view.

     
  3. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    What a great post! That kind of thing really represents these fora at their very best. I have wondered for quite a while how Chan and A-Man stacked up, and this makes it much more clear. Aside from Chan, A-Man and H. Baroman, I've heard good things in these fora about Gordon Yao and William Yu (I think that's his name). Who are some of the other HK tailors, if any, who rank up near the top of the pecking order?
     
  4. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Great post. I also, nearly 10 years ago now, visited both shops on a whirlwind tour of HK. AMHC's silhouette for me was much as you described although the tips of the shoulders were a little more rounded and, for reasons best known to the cutters, the waist at tad less suppressed. [​IMG] Sort of middle-market Poole.

    The other impressions I carry was the impeccable courtesy of Chan's staff in their upstairs shop, as compared to my sales guy's demeanor at AMHC. I wore into the shop what was at that time my best ordinary suit-- a Dege product that I wore to job interviews every chance I could. The A-Man cutter grabbed the lapel, wrinkled his nose and said "Not so good. We can do better."
     
  5. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    Get Smart, I don't know my proper jacket size. I'm 6 ft, have a 37-38 chest, 30-31 waist, and a disproportionately large overarm.

    GBR, there are issues with the AMHC, but it's not at all bad for a first suit. I have no doubt that they'll endeavor to fix it when I bring it back (I had to leave the country and hadn't the time to return it) and would improve on the next one if i went back. The labels aren't at all special on both, and I think I'm going to have them (and the fabric label) placed inside pockets. I believe you've mentioned that is your preference.

    I'm not really sure to what "...over the shoulders at the back..." refers.

    JLib, I've only seen quick posts of praise for Yao, Yu, and a couple others. My hop is that this thread encourages those with experience with them to write fuller descriptions.

    Concordia, the staff at AMHC are certainly proud. They feel they know what they're doing. The owner said that very few people these days, especially from Asia, can appreciate his tailors' work. And they won't move to Shanghai. Always has been, always will be a HK firm.
     
  6. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    GBR, The labels aren't at all special on both, and I think I'm going to have them (and the fabric label) placed inside pockets. I believe you've mentioned that is your preference.


    You are correct - I cetainly insist upon this only having my name embroidered directly onto the lining.




    JLib, I've only seen quick posts of praise for Yao, Yu, and a couple others. My hop is that this thread encourages those with experience with them to write fuller descriptions.


    Yao is extremely good - up with Chan but in a much smaller way of business. When next I visit I will pitch a Chan against a Yao made to the same specification.
     
  7. Matt

    Matt Senior member

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    Great post. I was planning to create a wiki page with some blurbs on different tailors from around the world. Would you mind if this one were used for part of the A-Man and Chan entries?

    Both suits look great. You're obviously a fan of above-average waist suppression, but it works for you. The shoulders on the Chan jacket appear to be slightly roped as opposed to the A-Man jacket. Did you specify that or was it a house default? Also, the front quarters on your Chan jacket are much more open than mine, and I even had to convince Patrick to open mine up to where they are now. While I agree that Patrick is very accomodating, he does balk at certain stylistic choices.

    dan

    Dan - let me know if you need anything from here on this. Ive now used four tailors in Vietnam ranging from super-popular hotel guys to one man guys with no shop that come to your office (got one of them copying a suit for me now actually)
     
  8. brescd01

    brescd01 Senior member

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    First of all, this has to be one of the most wonderful threads I have ever read, really fascinating. Can you elaborate on your Vietnam experience, costs, etc?

    Also, the initial pictures of the A-man and Chan suits make you look incredibly handsome. I am thinking, there is NO way you can look THAT good.
     
  9. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Thanks, Matt. I'll work on putting together an outline and overview for that page and maybe you can fill in the details on the Vietnam guys.

    dan
     
  10. Matt

    Matt Senior member

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    First of all, this has to be one of the most wonderful threads I have ever read, really fascinating. Can you elaborate on your Vietnam experience, costs, etc?

    Also, the initial pictures of the A-man and Chan suits make you look incredibly handsome. I am thinking, there is NO way you can look THAT good.

    hi David, havent seen you over here in a while. Prices in Vietnam range from 500000 dong ($35) for tailoring to 1.3 million ($80). Top end are tailors including Dung (pron Yoong) and Cao Minh. I tried Cao Minh and received crap in return, fit was good but issues with patterns around the darts made it unwearable. Had to argue with them to get canvassing. Dung is as good as it gets, and certainly I am very happy with what I have purchased from there. 2 suits now, 5 or 6 shirts. 2 fittings is standard with Dung (1 fitting seems standard with the other guys), however he does 3 fittings when you buy the more expensive cloth from them. Service there is just OK, his wife pretty snappy to new customers, turns people off, but in the end people walk away happy with their suits and shes a lot friendlier second time around. Dung speaks no English, so his wife (Minh) translates. To my knowledge he is the only guy in town who canvases by default. Fabric can be an issue here, Dung imports his own. Other tailors rely on the market stuff which tends to be blends from China. Ive also used a young guy called Chuong - I chronicaled that here and at AAAC a while ago, unfortunately he really butchered some very nice cloth I got on eBay. Big issues with the shoulders that he could never solve, pants all weird. At the moment I have a Dung suit being copied by a local guy called Phuoc. Older guy, speaks no English. Had one of my staff explain what I want. $35 fully canvassed. Using cloth I bought from the market at about $20 a meter. English, but lower end. Looks OK, feels OK, see how it comes out. Will be about $105 all told, so cant complain too much... Have seen work by an assortment of tailors, none particularly impressed me. Cao Vinh (directly opposite Cao Minh wiht a near identical logo) gets a bit of the expat trade, nothing impressed me. A friend went to a local tourist tailor and got a suit churned out in 48 hours that looked like crap, he asked for it to be canvassed on my instruction - and they put two interlinings in. Fused it first and stitched canvas over the top (!!) Hoi An is the famous tailortown in central Vietnam, but all Ive ever seen is backpackers in ill fitting suits, but Im sure lurking up there somewhere is someone decent. There is also a guy called Son in Da Lat that a forum member went to and received an excellent suit apparently. I never saw it, but he was very happy. Untested by me at this point, but I will give him a try one day. Cost about 800000 i think - so $50 Dan - sure, PM me when youre ready, happy to help
     
  11. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    First of all, this has to be one of the most wonderful threads I have ever read, really fascinating. Can you elaborate on your Vietnam experience, costs, etc?

    Also, the initial pictures of the A-man and Chan suits make you look incredibly handsome. I am thinking, there is NO way you can look THAT good.


    I'm assuming you're directing the first question to m@t, but I don't have any experience with Vietnamese tailors.

    That's the beauty of nice tailoring. It can make anyone look better. If we ever meet in person (I spend much of the year in Philadelphia), you can see for yourself.
     
  12. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I didn't know that Chan could do Huntsman's style effectively. My first suit from them was the house style which I like but had to make them take in the waist more. Whoopee, have they made a Huntsman styled hacking jacket? That's what I'm thinking of the next time I see them. Huntsman (even Richard Anderson) is so expensive with the dollar plummeting.
     
  13. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    excellent post, thanks
     
  14. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    Looks very nice! I wouldn't get that much waist surpression, but that's just me personally.

    Dan: I can give some insight on South Korean tailors.
     
  15. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    I didn't know that Chan could do Huntsman's style effectively. My first suit from them was the house style which I like but had to make them take in the waist more. Whoopee, have they made a Huntsman styled hacking jacket? That's what I'm thinking of the next time I see them. Huntsman (even Richard Anderson) is so expensive with the dollar plummeting.

    First off I don't consider what I have very Huntsman, but they can do pretty much whatever you ask, so if you are clear about what you want (and your ideas are not wrong), you will have great results.

    I am going to have a couple tweed hacking jackets made for the upcoming winter in a couple months. Remind me in August if you like and I'll let you know how it's turned out.
     
  16. Ed13

    Ed13 Senior member

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    I had a 3 piece suit made by A-Man last January while I was in HK. I was looking for an English cut suit with a 13 oz English fabric. I also wanted a high brace back on the trousers. I am very pleased with the results. The trousers are the best fitting I own. I was also pleasantly surprised how well the vest turned out.

    I enjoyed working with A-Man on the suit. I was in HK a couple of days and then back for 2.5 days later in the week. They were able to fit in 3 fittings with my tight schedule and make any changes I reqested during the process (width of lapels, breast pocket placement, button placements and various nips and tucks).

    I received horn buttons without asking except for interior trouser buttons. Quite a few lining choices were available and the quality of mine seemed quite good. I had a decent list of details and didn't have any problems when requested. They made suggestions on styling but were not close minded to my desires. One reason may have been my expectations closely matched their default style.

    I will be ordering a 22 oz tweed half Norfolk inspired jacket form them to ship to me. I chose material and a basic style while I was there and now will send pictures confirming details I want. They are going to use the same pattern as my suit jacket with minor changes. I hope the heavier fabric will hide any imperfections. I didn't have time to have it made while I was there and want it for next fall.

    A-Man won't make trousers for me without proper fittings. They didn't want to ship something sub par. I will wait until am am back in HK for these.
     
  17. RantriX

    RantriX Member

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    Just out of curiosity, how tall are you, whoopee? If the question offended you, I apologize. I really like the way you stylized your suits and am actually trying to find a similiar suit, but I am just a little afraid that with my height, the suit wouldn't really do =/. I am 5'5" by the way.
     
  18. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Whoopee...You've outdone yourself with this post! Exquisite tailoring and an excellent example of how much better your results with bespoke will be if you really know what you want and can express it.

    Bravo!!
     
  19. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    Just out of curiosity, how tall are you, whoopee? If the question offended you, I apologize. I really like the way you stylized your suits and am actually trying to find a similiar suit, but I am just a little afraid that with my height, the suit wouldn't really do =/. I am 5'5" by the way.
    As I've posted above: I'm 6 ft, have a 37-38 chest, 30-31 waist, and a disproportionately large overarm. I think something similar to my suits would work well on you. Everything is pretty much designed to heighten. I have a visceral dislike of anything approaching slouchiness. Thanks AP and everyone else.
     
  20. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    Ah, thank you whoopee for such a nice display of quality and somewhat original suits. I wish I could fly to HK.
    <RANT>Eventually something else to look at than shoe pics on this board...</RANT>
    Anyway, not much else to add about the suits; no offense meant however but what struck me first in these pics were your slightly arched legs and very long arms [​IMG] I guess there are things even the best tailors can't hide.
    Have you ever tried other silhouettes than maybe could attenuate this impression? I feel the very dramatic waist suppression and tappered trousers actually accentuate this morphology.

    !luc
     

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