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Hilditch & Key vs New & Lingwood vs Russell & Hodge shirts (RTW)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by radicaldog, Jun 19, 2009.

  1. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Need to order a white English shirt online quickly (long story). How do the three above makers compare? I'm particularly interested in fabric quality. Or should I just play it safe, ignore the sales, and go T&A? I have an irrational dislike of Emma Willis.

    Info on fused/unfused collars for the various brands?

    Other recommendations?

    Thanks.
     
  2. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    I have no experience with R&H, but would say N&L over H&K. Although they both fit large in the body.
     
  3. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    TM Lewin. Cheap as chips and the semi-fitted shirts are good and slim. The arms run a little short, the necks are bang-on.
     
  4. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    TM Lewin. Cheap as chips and the semi-fitted shirts are good and slim. The arms run a little short, the necks are bang-on.

    Yes, they are very cheap, but I suspect something's gotta give there. I think it was Henry Ford who said "I'm too poor to spend little", or something like that.
     
  5. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    don't sweat the price. The quality is fine.
     
  6. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    don't sweat the price. The quality is fine.

    So where's the catch? They don't have MOP buttons? Fabrics are considerably worse? Sweatshops in the Far East? I just can't believe that, even on sale, one can sell a good 2-ply cotton shirt for £25.
     
  7. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    +1 on TM Lewin. I picked up a few recently. Fabric is a little chintzy but the slim fit is pretty nice. I like the collar too.
     
  8. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    I really don't know about Lewin. I often pass by one of their stores. There is nearly always a sale on. Now that's got to be just a marketing ploy: you can't keep selling shirts with an alleged RRP of £80 for £25. If the £80 RRP were reasonable they would have gone out of business a long time go.

    Having said that, the shirts do look like very good value at £25. It's just that I'm looking for something a bit better, even if the value will be worse. Unless you can really show that they're no worse than the makers mentioned above. Which brings us back to the initial question. Any other recommendations?
     
  9. BRITINLA

    BRITINLA Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    79
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2006
    Need to order a white English shirt online quickly (long story). How do the three above makers compare? I'm particularly interested in fabric quality. Or should I just play it safe, ignore the sales, and go T&A? I have an irrational dislike of Emma Willis.

    Info on fused/unfused collars for the various brands?

    Other recommendations?

    Thanks.


    I have one N & L. Black label reads "Tailored". Got in on-line. Don't think I'll get anymore. When I compare it next to my Lewin, the N& L has somewhat of a "creamy" hue to it.
     
  10. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    I have one N & L. Black label reads "Tailored". Got in on-line. Don't think I'll get anymore. When I compare it next to my Lewin, the N& L has somewhat of a "creamy" hue to it.
    Is the creaminess good or bad? Are you saying that Lewin is better than New & Lingwood?
     
  11. BRITINLA

    BRITINLA Well-Known Member

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    Is the creaminess good or bad? Are you saying that Lewin is better than New & Lingwood?

    I don't care for the "creaminess", if you're going white go stark white. The colour looks a little "off to me".

    As for quality (fabricwise) Lewin seems to be a crap shoot. I've had about 8+ Lewin shirts - sometimes the fabrics seem really nice and smooth, othertimes rough and coarse.

    Based on my experience I would go with Lewin for cheap and save money and go to the next level rather than New and Lingwood.

    My other "English" shirts are Coles - not bad and T & A (my favourites).


    Hope this helps.
     
  12. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Both TM Lewin and Charles Tyrwhitt make reasonable shirts, particularly at their price point. The choices that they offer in neck sizing and sleeve lengths are excellent, too. However, their lower lines don't have MoP buttons and the collars are fused and - for my taste - quite heavy and stiff. The Thin Red Line is another purveyor of shirts on sale. I have four of their mini-gingham check shirts and I like them a lot. They are a little slimmer than TM Lewin or CT and the collars are lighter, which I like. I like H&K a lot, although, as others have said, they are not terribly slim-cut. Quality is very good, at least in the five H&K shirts that I have. I believe that T&A shirts are typically slimmer-cut than H&K. I don't have one, but a couple of friends of mine do, and I would say that the quality is pretty much on par with H&K but the shirts are a little slimmer. Another brand to think about is Coles. Their shirts are very nice and their slim cut is genuinely quite slim. I've only got one of their shirts, but I like it: http://www.coles-shirtmakers.com/Pro...im_Fitted/129/
     
  13. BAB

    BAB Senior member

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    Do Thin Red Line have slimfit shirts, or are they all cut rather slim?

    How do they compare in quality to TML and CT?
     
  14. bartil

    bartil Well-Known Member

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    Sorry if I go a little off-topic, but I've a question about the TML casual BD-shirt sizes. I've tried both the Medium and the Large but I really think I'm somewhat in between those sizes - do you think it's OK if I pick the Large then (will it shrink in the laundry?), or should I don't buy at all? £19 per shirt is very tempting, though!
     
  15. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

    Messages:
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    Feb 11, 2009
    Both TM Lewin and Charles Tyrwhitt make reasonable shirts, particularly at their price point. The choices that they offer in neck sizing and sleeve lengths are excellent, too. However, their lower lines don't have MoP buttons and the collars are fused and - for my taste - quite heavy and stiff. The Thin Red Line is another purveyor of shirts on sale. I have four of their mini-gingham check shirts and I like them a lot. They are a little slimmer than TM Lewin or CT and the collars are lighter, which I like. I like H&K a lot, although, as others have said, they are not terribly slim-cut. Quality is very good, at least in the five H&K shirts that I have. I believe that T&A shirts are typically slimmer-cut than H&K. I don't have one, but a couple of friends of mine do, and I would say that the quality is pretty much on par with H&K but the shirts are a little slimmer. Another brand to think about is Coles. Their shirts are very nice and their slim cut is genuinely quite slim. I've only got one of their shirts, but I like it: http://www.coles-shirtmakers.com/Pro...im_Fitted/129/
    Thanks for this informative response. I've now narrowed it down to Coles vs H&K, and I've asked the question here: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...99#post2184099
     
  16. Hobbs

    Hobbs Senior member

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    Ireland
    I have no experience with R&H, but would say N&L over H&K. Although they both fit large in the body.


    H&K have a slimfit range (instore only).
     
  17. James Perry

    James Perry New Member

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    Location:
    West Sussex
    Russell & Hodge is run by Mr Kerry Ford who apprenticed at Harvie & Hudson under Mr Roy Woodhead.
    Mr Ford works to principles in Bespoke shirt making that are dying out in the modern shirt industry.
    Russell & Hodge do fine work where you can specify every detail in your search for the perfect fit and cut.
    As well as being involved with the top costume designers in the industry they work on various special
    commissions I would highly recommend the services of this fine shirt maker.
    I was myself apprenticed to Mr Ford in the early Nineteen Eighties at Harvie & Hudson
     
  18. YourArsenal

    YourArsenal Well-Known Member

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    Dec 22, 2008
    

    TM Lewin's collars weren't fused last I checked at least. Granted, that was a while ago, but I'd be surprised if it has changed. MoP buttons they don't have. But MoP buttons are readily available, fairly cheap, and anyone with a needle, thread and 30min on their hands can change them themselves, if everything else about the shirt is satisfactory.

    I was quite pleasantly surprised by Harvie & Hudson's RTW shirts. Nice and slim (if you go with the slim fit line, that is), decent fabrics, unfused collars/cuffs, MoP buttons… Around the same area as the other Jermyn Street brands in terms of price, I think 3 shirts cost a hundred pounds. The only downside is that I believe all their slim fit shirts are double cuffed.
     

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