Highland and PW Minor-made footwear thread (no storm pictures)

[misterjuiceman]



I guess handsewn construction was too relevant. I mentioned fiberboard tucks a while back, and didn't get much response. Anybody know why they're using them?

It's just because they're cheaper. It's the same reason Rancourt uses fiberboard insoles on their Blake-stitched boots rather than a leather insole.

edit: No storm photos here. Feel free to discuss the construction techniques of other related makers, like Rancourt.

 

[misterjuiceman]

To get back on-track after Crane's interrupted the discussion in the OSB thread, here's what we were discussing before: it seems that Highland is using a fake welt for their OSB handsewns.

Here's the best pic I could get, the outer edge with the fake stitching is raised and under the upper is what looks like the "teeth" you see on a welt.

 

[BolognaFingers]

What does that mean? That the stitching is just for looks? Sorry I'm a novice.

 

[misterjuiceman]

Yep. The welt is pre-stitched and glued on for appearance.

 

[tanbar]

Was just looking around a came across pictures that clearly show the midsole underneath the fake welt:





As well as pictures with no visible midsole, except for a slightly visible line that runs a little bit below the fake welt:





Looks like there's some sort of white midsole, wonder if it's just a painted leather midsole or some other material??

 

[misterjuiceman]



Looks like there's some sort of white midsole, wonder if it's just a painted leather midsole or some other material??

My understanding is that the white midsole is referred to as a rubber slip sole. On boots like these

it's stitched to the midsole. The slip sole is then, I think, cemented to the outsole. My guess is that the cement is more effective for rubber on rubber, and that's why it's used. A thick outsole like that can't be easily stitched, so that's the next best thing.

I'm also wondering if Rancourt is using fake stitching. On this (http://www.rancourtandcompany.com/men-s/blake-stitch/hamilton-boot-cognac-bison-pull-up.html) boot, it looks like the stitching doesn't really attach to anything. This (http://helmboots.com/collections/shop/products/muller-teak) is apparently made by Rancourt, and referred to as Blake-rapid stitched, but it doesn't look like the stitching is anything but decorative.

 

[tanbar]

It's a midsole with edge dressing to match the color of the outsole, although the material is unknown. However, the midsole is stiched to the upper through some blake stitches, and the outsole is cemented to the midsole. The welt stitching is non-functional.

I thought it would just be a leather midsole with white edge dressing at first, but in this picture it looks like the whole midsole is white underneath:

 

[tanbar]

My understanding is that the white midsole is referred to as a rubber slip sole. On boots like these



it's stitched to the midsole. The slip sole is then, I think, cemented to the outsole. My guess is that the cement is more effective for rubber on rubber, and that's why it's used. A thick outsole like that can't be easily stitched, so that's the next best thing.

I'm also wondering if Rancourt is using fake stitching. On this (http://www.rancourtandcompany.com/men-s/blake-stitch/hamilton-boot-cognac-bison-pull-up.html) boot, it looks like the stitching doesn't really attach to anything. This (http://helmboots.com/collections/shop/products/muller-teak) is apparently made by Rancourt, and referred to as Blake-rapid stitched, but it doesn't look like the stitching is anything but decorative.

Is there even an additional midsole, or does the rubber slip sole just serve as the midsole itself?

 

[misterjuiceman]



Is there even an additional midsole, or does the rubber slip sole just serve as the midsole itself?

In the picture below, it seems that there's just a rubber slip sole with a pre-stitched welt glued on to look like a midsole that's been stitched to the slip sole.

 

[tanbar]

In the picture below, it seems that there's just a rubber slip sole with a pre-stitched welt glued on to look like a midsole that's been stitched to the slip sole.

Yeah, that's what it looked like to me too.

Also, can't speak on the Helm Boots, but for the regular Rancourt line I'm pretty sure they just use a full leather midsole, no fake welts at all. For some of the shoes/boots that use a glued on sole (RLH, Vibram, etc..) I think they do put a fake row of stitching on the midsole, but not a glued on welt/fake stitching.

 

[misterjuiceman]



Yeah, that's what it looked like to me too.  

Also, can't speak on the Helm Boots, but for the regular Rancourt line I'm pretty sure they just use a full leather midsole, no fake welts at all.  For some of the shoes/boots that use a glued on sole (RLH, Vibram, etc..) I think they do put a fake row of stitching on the midsole, but not a glued on welt/fake stitching.

Rancourt seems to be referring to some of their boots as "Blake-welt stitch," though at first glance they look like Blake-rapid boots. I wasn't sure why they're using a welt, but then when I saw the bon-welted OSBs, I started wondering.

 

[tanbar]

Rancourt seems to be referring to some of their boots as "Blake-welt stitch," though at first glance they look like Blake-rapid boots. I wasn't sure why they're using a welt, but then when I saw the bon-welted OSBs, I started wondering.

I'd say most of them are more just Blake stitched with a glued on outsole. The only thing I would call Blake/Rapid would be boots with a leather or tempest outsole that is stitched to the midsole.

 

[Crane's]

...NVM

 

[misterjuiceman]

Do you see folks postering $100 sneakers in this thread? Your pictures are irrelevant here, as they were in the OSB thread. This thread was clearly made to avoid them. If you want to post storm pictures, do it elsewhere.

 

[misterjuiceman]



They're not using a full leather midsole on their Blake boots. They are using leather wrapped fiberboard.

I thought their insoles were leather-wrapped fiberboard. Are the midsoles not leather either?