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Highest-Quality Shoe Report Card (Lattanzi, Bontoni, Lobb Kiton, Berluti)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Englishtea, Mar 21, 2007.

  1. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    I think if you want the best then bespoke is essential.

    For RTW, I find Lattanzi tough to beat from a style and quality viewpoint.
     
  2. Englishtea

    Englishtea Member

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    There is no question Lattanzi makes a great shoe. His styling and coloring, however, is no longer what is used to be. Have you ever seen his factory? He's a character...
     
  3. Englishtea

    Englishtea Member

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    I think the quality of Kiton and Bontoni and Lobb is as good as that of Lattanzi
     
  4. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    My feeling is that Bontoni and Berluti are pretty crappy, but the others are varying degrees of very nice.
     
  5. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Senior member

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    i would have to place santoni , vass , and john lobb on the top of my rtw list of which i know of.
     
  6. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    aportnoy,

    I see you like your Edward Green? Do you prefer Green over Lobb?


    Asthetically quite different. I give Lobb Prestiege the edge in quality of leather and consrtuction but Green's antiquing is top notch.
     
  7. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    I like Lobb and Green but I think regular Lobb is a bit overpriced overall and not up to EG standards. Prestige is a different story.
     
  8. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

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  9. horton

    horton Senior member

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    My feeling is that Bontoni and Berluti are pretty crappy, but the others are varying degrees of very nice.

    Matt I generally respect your opinion. What's the basis for the comment for Bontoni? I've seen/held them but never inspected them closely and to be frank don't have enough expertise (like many people here) to know precisely what I should be inspecting them for other than looks (and hoping they were well made).

    The one's I've seen looked good. What gives?
     
  10. kabert

    kabert Senior member

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    By the way, which Austrian makers/brands did you choose/try?

    And what prevented them from being on your listings?[​IMG]

    PS: Would like to see the Lobb's(only)


    Austrian = Saint Crispin's, perhaps?

    I agree on the surprise at absence of Edward Green....
     
  11. Christofuh

    Christofuh Senior member

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  12. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    Thanks for posting your shoe experiences. I look forward to seeing pictures.
     
  13. von Rothbart

    von Rothbart Senior member

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    Welcome to the Forvm, Englishtea. I'd rank Vass #1 in the price/quality category. I am not too impressed with Botoni, don't know why you rank it so highly.
     
  14. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Matt I generally respect your opinion. What's the basis for the comment for Bontoni? I've seen/held them but never inspected them closely and to be frank don't have enough expertise (like many people here) to know precisely what I should be inspecting them for other than looks (and hoping they were well made).

    The one's I've seen looked good. What gives?

    I think that they are shoes that are finished with very nice antiquing but that they lack quality construction. First of all, many of them are blake stitched, which is not a problem, but unusual for a shoe that runs 1k. Second of all they do not have hidden sole stitching which, to me, is a very important feature and one that makes a shoe looked finished. When compared to Vass or Lattanzi which are truly handmade shoes with excellent finishing, a machine stitched (even when done Goodyear) shoe with exposed stitching doesn't really rate.
     
  15. horton

    horton Senior member

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    I think that they are shoes that are finished with very nice antiquing but that they lack quality construction. First of all, many of them are blake stitched, which is not a problem, but unusual for a shoe that runs 1k. Second of all they do not have hidden sole stitching which, to me, is a very important feature and one that makes a shoe looked finished. When compared to Vass or Lattanzi which are truly handmade shoes with excellent finishing, a machine stitched (even when done Goodyear) shoe with exposed stitching doesn't really rate.

    Thanks.

    I have several pairs of sutors that I'm told are top line and that I can easily see the stitching. I happen to like the look and thought there was a name for the style (Norvegese sp? but maybe I'm wrong) . Are these too slightly inferior construction technique? Again I happen to like an ever so slight gunboat style.

    ALso is the issue with the blake stuff (I think I've been told some Bonora of mine are Blake) not so much the quality but for the quality/price ratio?

    I still vividly recall a split toe light brown/tanish Bontoni at Louis that I think I'll never forget (I've been told that lighter shades of brown best reflect the patina and antinquing one can get)

    Last question and a little off topic: this summer I do Italy for two weeks. WHat/who would you recommend for a sportsjacket and shoes. I will be bouncing arouond throughout country but probably not in any place long enough for bespoke. Could do one fitting or measurement (MTM)?

    Thanks and sorry for the barrage
     
  16. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    There is no question Lattanzi makes a great shoe. His styling and coloring, however, is no longer what is used to be. Have you ever seen his factory? He's a character...
    Isn't it the Zintala factory? Lattanzi RTW is very expensive so I don't know about any "value". As for Bontoni, their elaborate, over-worked soles are off-putting. In fact, any of those over-worked--Baroque if we will--surfaces that aims to project an aura of artisnal quality are off-putting.
     
  17. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    As for Bontoni, their elaborate, over-worked soles are off-putting. In fact, any of those over-worked--Baroque if we will--surfaces that aims to project an aura of artisnal quality are off-putting.


    Ouch!-10 for Bontoni
     
  18. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Senior member

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    Thanks.

    I have several pairs of sutors that I'm told are top line and that I can easily see the stitching. I happen to like the look and thought there was a name for the style (Norvegese sp? but maybe I'm wrong) . Are these too slightly inferior construction technique? Again I happen to like an ever so slight gunboat style.


    what iammatt meant was the channeled sole or lack thereof on the bontonis.

    if you look on the bottom of the shoe , the sole, like allen edmonds, you can see the stitching around the sole on a bontoni and benchmade cj.

    the norvogese or bentivegna line of santoni or mantellassi with the sort of weave or stitch above the sole edge that is visible to the eye when the shoe is on the floor, that is a different story.
     
  19. Maharlika

    Maharlika Senior member

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    Thanks for the report. I love Berlutis and I agree, their patina is hard to beat. Nice to have a shoe connoisseur in the forum:)
     
  20. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    The Iammatt mentioned Stefano Branchini as a value alternative.

    There's also Stefano Bemer.
     

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