High gorge

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by j, Oct 28, 2004.

  1. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    same goes for super-spread collars. Yes, they have been around a while, but they are the most in vogue now. Will they look dated in 10 year? I think so. And I love them now.
     


  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I'd say medium high gorge (it's hard to say from angle of picture,) with low button stance and semi-wide lapels with a distinctive shape (there is a term that eludes me.) Why? What is the provenance of the jacket?
     


  3. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    My point exactly. Love them now, on whatever aesthetic criteria you judge things by presently. Just be aware that you will be moved by the winds of fashion just like everybody else (though at what speed depends on you,) and that anyone who actually *believes* otherwise is fooling himself.

    Who knows, maybe in ten years time, globetrotter, you will rethink your life and become an aesthete on a mountain somewhere. Sackcloth chic, anyone?
     


  4. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    LA Guy, my tastes change daily. Sometimes I like a slimmer shirt, sometimes not. Sometimes I like a squarer shoulder, sometimes not. Sometimes I feel like wearing pinstripes, other times I don't know what the hell I was thinking buying a pinstriped suit. But I sort of doubt that my tastes will change so radically that I will buy a suit that I would look at two years from now and say, "NEVER AGAIN."
     


  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Probably not. But you might think in 10 years time, "Yeah, maybe I did wear my suits a little too slim back then. This natural shoulder suit with a looser drape makes me look a little more relaxed, a little more at ease, more stylish. Just look how great Richard Gere looked in American Gigolo."
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Glacial, in my case.

    But seriously, I admit that my tastes have changed somewhat over the last 10-15 years. I chalk this up to a general "refinement" in my thinking. I do not think fashion really affects me. I certainly don't look at what is on the runways or in the stores year to year and take those ideas to my tailor. Occasionally, I may happen to see something I like, and copy or emulate that with through a custom made garment, but it's not something I seek out.
     


  7. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    People see what's around them, good or bad, and react accordingly. I devour trade and popular magazines, and talk to lots of high end retailers and some designers, so my environment is different than yours. You probably just register some image on the street, in a restaurant, whatever, and store it subconsciously. Nevertheless, we are both affected.
     


  8. mistahlee

    mistahlee Senior member

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    Would this be considered an high gorge?
    I'd say medium high gorge (it's hard to say from angle of picture,) with low button stance and semi-wide lapels with a distinctive shape (there is a term that eludes me.) Â Why? Â What is the provenance of the jacket?
    It is bespoke. Â I think medium-high, yes.
     


  9. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    but what if you don't want to appear "stylish"? I want to present a certain image, I want to be comfortable, I want to enjoy my clothes, I enjoy being considered stylish. I have no desire to be fashinable.

    I can remember a half dozen or so encounters that I have had with people whose dress really influenced me - the first time I saw somebody wear a double breasted suit with a complimenting but not matching waistcoat, a specific color blue shirt, a specific tie, a specific shirt I saw on somebody I admired. it has been a very long time since I have seen anything in a magazine ad that I thought was a good look.

    and, yes, maybe my tastes will change very much in the coming years, but I don't forsee that now.
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Nothing is timeless, no.  But clothes can be long lived because the essence of the suit and tie get-up has not changed much in 75 years.  I agree that technology and techinique have made something of a difference, and I appreciate that.  But a well cut gray flannel suit made from better cloth with better "guts" is still a gray flannel suit.

    I wear my stuff for a long, long time.  Either until it falls apart or doesn't fit or I come to hate it (this is rare).  My tastes are just different.

    Sartorial reactionaries are people too.
     


  11. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    (CTGuy @ 28 Oct. 2004, 11:40) If you think that you can somehow have a whole wardrobe or look that is "timeless" you are kidding yourself. Â As mentioned, I think the more conservative you go, the more likely that your clothing will remain fashionable for a longer period of time, but nothing is timeless.
    Nothing is timeless, no. Â But clothes can be long lived because the essence of the suit and tie get-up has not changed much in 75 years. Â I agree that technology and techinique have made something of a difference, and I appreciate that. Â But a well cut gray flannel suit made from better cloth with better "guts" is still a gray flannel suit. I wear my stuff for a long, long time. Â Either until it falls apart or doesn't fit or I come to hate it (this is rare). Â My tastes are just different. Sartorial reactionaries are people too.
    I agree with Manton on this one. I bought my 1st Hugo Boss sports coat in 1996. I still wear it to work. I think I can wear it another 10 yrs. But, suits that follows fashion trend, you won't be able to wear that when that trend fades away (duh.). Since I do not have unlimited supply of cash, I buy my suits that are in classic style (average size lapel, not so crazy stripe etc..) But if I want to have that "flash" look, I do it with funky shirts, belt, and shoes.
     


  12. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Senior member

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    LA Guy speaks the gospel. Although a good majority of us are not even remotely close to being fashion whores, trends and the lastest fashion affects us no matter what. There are timeless classics but these classics still come in and out of fashion. I am reluctant to use the word "style" because style is something that has to be personal. A person that follows fashion is not stylish. That person is fashionable. Men's clothes should be simplistic, functional and most of all utilitarian. Main point is men's clothes should be practical. I think if we follow those simple rules, the clothes that we have can last for a long time. After we acquire the basic wardobe, I think one would be be hard pressed to not have something that is "trendy". For example, shirts are one of the crazy trends currently, primarily, those ridiculous diagonal striped garbage. Thank god, this trend is waning... You can be stylish by buying a slightly bolder stripe shirt that has the all the stripes going vertical. Nothing too out there of course. That shirt can be then used at a later time to be a layer under a sweater for example. But I am devianting from the main topic. A high gorge I don't think will ever be out of style. As long as it is the lower part of high, I think it will be fine. Come to think of it, it is mainly the severity of line or lack there of that makes clothes cross over from being classic to being fashionable. I can go on forever on this matter. Fashion by itself is just classics taken to the extreme. That is what I come to understand. I have a cashmere overcoat cut in the form of a covert coat. I get complemented on it all the time when I wear it. It was however customed made for my dad over 30 years ago. You be the judge.
     


  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I don't deny this. I only say that I don't believe the cycle affects me much. It certainly doesn't conciously affect me.

    For example: I got my first bespoke suit made in 1992. I got it with a ticket pocket. These days, the ticket pocket is "in." Some day soon it will be "out." I wore my suit when the ticket pocket was out, I wear that suit while the ticket pocket is in, and I will wear it once it the ticket pocket goes out again. I guess I am a satorital broken clock, fashion-wise. But that doesn't make me fashionable.
     


  14. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    Manton,

    some day years from now if you see somebody else with ticket pockets on their suits, it may very well be me (if the ticket pocket is on the left hand, it is a very good chance that it is me).
     


  15. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    This thread remind me of the chat I had with the president of Kiton USA a month ago.

    Me: I spend $7000CAD on Kiton suit, would not this go to a waste if the style goes away?

    P. of Kiton: A suit of Kiton's caliber is a piece of art. Work of art always looks good. If you think the suit that you are wearing is out of style, thats in your head. As long as the suit fits well, it looks good.

    Me: Smile.
     


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