High End Ready-to-Wear Suit Making Stateside

[AltaSartoria]

I just learned a couple days ago that Rocco Ciccarelli went out of business at the end of last year. As you probably know, they made suits for Thom Browne and many other designers. It got me thinking. Other than Oxxford and Southwick who is left producing high end RTW suits? Btw Oxxford says they are the only suit maker in the US that does everything by hand. I'm not sure if that's true. I know there are many great bespoke shops around especially in NYC, but are there any other operations with some scale akin to Rocco? I thought US suit making was on the rise and I was surprised to hear Rocco went under.

 

[Mark Seitelman]

Manufacturers a notch below Oxxford:

1. Martin Greenfield Clothiers in Brooklyn, NY.
2. Adrian Jules in Rochester, NY.

Both are superb. I have worn both.

Manufacturers a further notch below:

1. Hickey-Freeman of Rochester, NY
2. English American of Maryland

A manufacturer still a further notch below:

Hart Schaffner & Marx

Of all of the above, Hickey-Freeman and Hart Schnaffer & Marx have the greatest RTW presence. Greenfield and Jules are private label for stores and boutiques. They mostly make MTM.

BTW, Oxxford's Highest Quality label is the most handmade factory suit in the USA. It is a bit of an exaggeration to say that "everything" in an Oxxford is hand sewn, There are suits which are almost completely hand sewn, such as those from Neopolitan tailors. However, Oxxford hand sews elements which are machine made in the other suits, such as the collar and lapels.

 

[comrade]

Where does H Freeman rank?

Also, widely available in th e US is Cnadaian maker Samuelsohn

 

[Mark Seitelman]



Where does H Freeman rank?

* * *

H. Freeman of Philadelphia is made by English American. It is a notch better than Hickey Freeman, but it falls into the category below Greenfield and Jules.

 

[reidrothchild]

I have only one H. Freeman sport coat (MTM) and have one Hickey Freeman suit, but have handled plenty of Hickey Freeman suits and SCs. Based on my limited experience, I would put Hickey Freeman well above H. Freeman.

 

[AltaSartoria]

Ahh yes Greenfield. I had forgotten about him. How I don't know.

I hadn't heard of Adrian Jules. Southwick in New England has received good reviews as well.

 

[Shirtmaven]

John Daniels in Knoxville
Jeffrey D has started up a factory somewhere in the south. but i think it is a half canvassed.

the J A apparel factory is a streamlined decent make. not much hand work.

there is also the Hugo Boss factory in ohio, but this is also a half canvased suit.

some of the people from Primo have opened up a shop in Greenpoint, Bklyn.
they have plenty of work and are not looking for new accounts or new designers.

 

[AltaSartoria]

Great info! Any idea on the name of the place in Greenpoint?

 

[TimelesStyle]

Isn't Joseph Abboud all USA-made? I'm assuming they rank somewhere between the high end of HSM and the low end of HF?

 

[AltaSartoria]

I think you're right, not sure where though. Personally, I might put them a notch below HF.

 

[TimelesStyle]



I think you're right, not sure where though. Personally, I might put them a notch below HF.

That's where I had them, but I see where that may have been ambiguous. The JA/Men's Wearhouse collaboration commercial says they're made in Massachusetts, but I don't know if that's where all of them are made.

Also, aren't some Brooks Bros. suits USA-made? Not sure by whom.

 

[AltaSartoria]

I can't remember who makes BB suits, but I think a lot of them are made stateside. I haven't tried any of their newer fits from the last few years.

 

[Gus]

BB owns Southwick. They also own a shirt and tie maker which are used for their made in USA products.