High-end machine-washable cloth for bespoke trousers?

[mberglun]

I have been looking for high-end cloth for trousers that would be machine washable, but have not been able to find any through my usual suppliers (Holland & Sherry, Dugdale). I ordered some cotton and linen from Holland & Sherry, and have machine washed them in a hand wash program despite the warnings not to do so, and I have to say that the cloth indeed looks quite worn after only a few washes.

Would anyone have tips for where to find high-end cloth that would specifically be machine washable? There should at least exist cotton, maybe linen, and possibly even something with wool that should fit the bill. The cost is not an issue, at least below about 200€ per meter.

The background is that I have a partial degree in tailoring (specifically in trouser making), so I make trousers for myself. I would want to have a set of trousers with which I can avoid the hassle of taking them to be dry cleaned.

Thank you in advance for any tips.

 

[emptym]

Lanitex has some wool/poly and linen/poly fabrics that Yeossal uses. I'd like to try them myself.

Gurteen sells rtw covert twill pants that are wool/poly and machine washable. I have a pair and love them. No idea who makes the fabric though.

 

[mberglun]

Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it. If trying to avoid poly I guess the best bet would be to try to find good cotton. VBC should have some, but I don't have the volume to order from them.

 

[Despos]

Washing high end wools depletes the cloth of natural oils and turns high end cloth into wash cloths. Especially lanolin that gives the cloth that great hand in fine cloth. Problem washing finished garments is all the various cloth and fabrics used to make a garment respond to washing and shrinking in their own way. You will have to have them pressed properly to look right and that is very difficult to learn to do.
There is a benefit and a purpose to dry cleaning fine cloth.

 

[double00]

ever see a raw fleece? lanolin (along with suint, dirt, veg matter, etc) gets scoured out of wool in the early stages of processing.

 

[dieworkwear]

ever see a raw fleece? lanolin (along with suint, dirt, veg matter, etc) gets scoured out of wool in the early stages of processing.

Despos' comments echo what I've heard from Stu at Rave

 

[emptym]

Despos is definitely right about potential problems. I wouldn't want most of my wardrobe to be machine washable. But a few pieces (for travel, really hot and sticky weather, or mushy and dirty spring thaws) would be great.

You'd just need to make sure the different cloths were all preshruck before making. And you could occasionally wash the garment with shampoo to restore some oils, just like with wool sweaters. I've been caring for garments like that for 25-30 yrs. They're a boon for those who don't have a lot of money to spend on things like dry cleaning.

 

[double00]

Despos' comments echo what I've heard from Stu at Rave

ah got it. you've never seen or handled or processed raw fleece.

typically use soap (or detergent) n water to clean fleece, it's sort of the opposite of magic lol. simply put lanolin is removed at this point, along with the sheep tags and other stuff you really don't want in the fiber when you apply downstream industrial processes, like carding, spinning, etc.

 

[Despos]

Have been to a mill and observed the process from raw materials to spinning dying, finishing, and weaving but I'm not that knowledgeable of the specifics. My comment is from articles I've read.
Thought lanolin or whatever essential oils, etc were put back into the fibers along the way.

 

[Joe Schmoe]

I just bought a bottle of lanolin-enriched detergent -- it's called Eucalan -- anyone know if it works? I have some Darn Tough running socks that aren't as soft as they used to be, since I've just been throwing them in the washing machine with the rest of my clothes.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I just bought a bottle of lanolin-enriched detergent -- it's called Eucalan -- anyone know if it works? I have some Darn Tough running socks that aren't as soft as they used to be, since I've just been throwing them in the washing machine with the rest of my clothes.

I bought a wool robe that was worsted wool, and itchy as hell.

Eucalan definitely softened it, and an angora blend scarf I bought.

It didn't completely get rid of the scratchy feeling, but I did notice they were softer.

No experience with restoring used wool though, but it's worth a shot.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

OP, the machine is going to be harder on your clothes in general, but maybe you can get away with machine washing in Woolite, provided you turn the pants inside out, put them inside a bra bag, and run the gentlest cycle you can, with no spin. Dry it the way you would a sweater: ball it up to gently press out excess liquid and then dry flat on a towel. I do this sometimes with wool blend trousers and it works but disclaimer, I am not very nice to my clothes and don't really notice them wearing out until they start falling apart; you might be pickier.

typically use soap (or detergent) n water to clean fleece, it's sort of the opposite of magic lol. simply put lanolin is removed at this point, along with the sheep tags and other stuff you really don't want in the fiber when you apply downstream industrial processes, like carding, spinning, etc.

It sounds like you work in this field? Can you put this to rest for me? When I first became in interested in CM, it was still dominated by that ~2010 wave of #menswear hucksters bloggers, who traded in stories like this, along with the standard advice on how to acquire more poon and cashmoneyzzz. It never made sense to me though since lanolin is the greasy crud in old-fashioned moisturizers like Bag Balm, basically the last thing I want on my clothes. Is it supposed to be different in trace amounts vs. a block of purified goop? In any case, sheep smell like any other barnyard animal, that is to say, like a balmy rotten asscrack slurping its way through a summer day in DC, and I'd certainly hope the wool is washed in soap and water before I wear it. They do seem to pass this stuff through sudsy liquid at each checkpoint in production; I imagine that even if the liquid was just full of gentle dilute baby shampoo, the # of washes is enough to leave nothing behind except dry fiber when all is said and done?

 

[Spinster Jones]

I just bought a bottle of lanolin-enriched detergent -- it's called Eucalan -- anyone know if it works? I have some Darn Tough running socks that aren't as soft as they used to be, since I've just been throwing them in the washing machine with the rest of my clothes.

There have been a wide variety of tests of this sort in Norway. They usually conclude with that wool can be washed with normal non-bleaching/non-enzyme detergent, but avoid fabric softeners. But use something like Eucalan, if possible (or Milo as we use).

It comes more down to a slow washing cycle or hand-washing the garments in wool detergent and water at 30C, letting it seep, and then rinsing in water. Don't wash it in water if you've applied lanolin. Following up with rolling it up in a towel and squeezing gently, and then letting it dry flat down.

You're fine to hand wash the pants, but the hard part is the pressing, as others are mentioning. But one can achieve a good enough result with an iron and a towel.

 

[mberglun]

Very interesting, thanks a lot for all the advice. If anyone can recommend good sources (e.g. books) on the topic, I'd be really interested in reading, my understanding of materials is too limited and I would like to learn more. In essence it seems like wool could potentially be washed, but with the caveats mentioned above. I could give it a try and see what happens.

Cotton (how about linen?) would probably be more low-maintenance as it does not shape in the same way, and pressing should be less time-consuming. Would anyone know of mills/merchants that would supply high-end cotton (or linen) that would specifically be suitable for machine washing?

 

[double00]

It sounds like you work in this field? Can you put this to rest for me? When I first became in interested in CM, it was still dominated by that ~2010 wave of #menswear hucksters bloggers, who traded in stories like this, along with the standard advice on how to acquire more poon and cashmoneyzzz. It never made sense to me though since lanolin is the greasy crud in old-fashioned moisturizers like Bag Balm, basically the last thing I want on my clothes. Is it supposed to be different in trace amounts vs. a block of purified goop? In any case, sheep smell like any other barnyard animal, that is to say, like a balmy rotten asscrack slurping its way through a summer day in DC, and I'd certainly hope the wool is washed in soap and water before I wear it. They do seem to pass this stuff through sudsy liquid at each checkpoint in production; I imagine that even if the liquid was just full of gentle dilute baby shampoo, the # of washes is enough to leave nothing behind except dry fiber when all is said and done?

these days far more likely that a mill would simply clean the fiber off and apply an industrial oil for say carding, and on down the line.

not to take anything away from say eucalan it seems like folks really like the product and if it works great. incidentally most critters don't make lanolin. not rabbits or goats or alpaca. if it works, well, why not? but the product isn't restoring anything that was there to begin with.

otoh in the marketplace you'll see inferior cashmere that is passed off with conditioner but the good stuff is simply soft and fine as clean and dry, to me that is the best standard.

***

this whole convo is a pretty good inquiry. years ago i knitted up a wool beanie, and then made it machine washable by soaking it in proteolytic enzymes (meat tenderizer!) , the point was to digest off the little scales that make wool felt. industry uses something similar to get to *smartwool* and those kinds of super wash products. i personally haven't seen but knits... OP might poke around to see if they haven't come up with a woven on that basis.

but it is super worth noting that altering fiber is exactly that. so you're giving something up to get something. fiber, yarn, ply, weaving structure, nothing is not a part of the final *thing*. looking forward to seeing what solutions emerge.