High end denim brands?

[Shawnc]

First, I want to again say thanks. It is certainly not lost on me that you guys have patiently answered what must seem like some really basic (i.e. stupid) questions for a complete selvedge noob and I really appreciate it. So to summarize, all of my research was for naught as it sounds like the recommended care of selvedge has evolved to being not much different than what I do for my basic 505's. @SixOhNine used the term 'disintegrate' and this is what it literally felt like would occur from my online research. I wouldn't mind a little shrinkage but as @gaseousclay suggested, I can always go the weird guy fit if these end up looking too unfit. Bottom line is I'm going with his advice and will soak these in warm water for 45 minutes and then wash and dry them. My goal is more to soften them than shrinkage. And as long as they don't disintegrate, I'll be fine.

Again, thanks guys. You saved me a ton of time. Should have come here first.

 

[gaseousclay]

One thing to be aware of when washing denim is streaking. This can happen on occasion, so if that’s a concern then a tub soak/hand wash might be your best best. This happened to me with a pair of N&F Left hand twill, but I didn’t care and the streaking went away with wear. Basically, they’re jeans and shouldn’t be babied. Not washing denim is what leads to blow outs and general wear and tear. I tried the no wash method once with a pair of jeans and I got several blow outs in the crotch and back of the knees. My washed denim had none of those things. They’ll wear out eventually over time with washing and wear but not as badly as unwashed denim

 

[Shawnc]

Guys,

Back with another noob question (though I'm pretty deep into this expensive habit at this point). Decided to try 2 firsts, 15oz denim, which for me is pretty heavy, and rigid/unsanforized denim. I only got them because I stumbled across the Unbranded brand and they we're really inexpensive (as selvedge goes). I really like them, both the weight and fit but man are they stiff. Unbranded say's they will loosen up after 2 weeks of wear but man that seems a bit dubious to me.

So my question is what can I do to loosen these up a bit? Or is it really best long-term to just suffer through wearing them for a couple of weeks?

 

[Chambray_1]

I'm a little confused by your post. So you purchased Unbranded denim? They are sanforized (processed to minimize shrinking). Unsanforized does not go through that treatment and will shink multiple inches as opposed to an inch. I believe Unbranded uses sanforized denim for all their jeans.

Raw denim will loosen up and the best thing you can do is to wear them. They will start to loosen up well before 2 weeks. If they are overly tight and you feel that you can't make basic movements in them now, they may just be the wrong size.

 

[Shawnc]

Thanks @Chambray_1. They are Unbranded and unsanforized. They fit fine, not at all too tight. They are just so stiff but I've got an older dog whose medication results in him needing to be walked multiple times a day and I've been wearing them during our walks. I've already noticed them breaking in a little. That's my only concern. But I really like them and will continue to work with them because they do fit really good and the quality is high as well, at least by my standards.

 

[hammerhead_corvette]

I've never worn unsanforized, but with most raw denim you just need to wear them to break them in. You could wash them a few times too, which I assume you have already done to get them to fit properly? But that would probably change to color and fades.

 

[vdubiv]

The heaviest denim I've broken in was 18oz. and I felt like I couldn't even bend over to tie my shoes the pants were so stiff. I can say they are one of my favorite pairs that I have right now. Like others have stated, just wear them and give it time. They will slowly loosen up, and plus you will get more used to the feeling of the heavier denim. Between the combination of the two, they will begin to feel comfortable over time.

 

[Profligate47]

Samurai
Momotaro
Japan Blue
All different. All I got.
View attachment 1415702

What brand is the one closest to us? Which model? Thanks

 

[Gonzo9]

What brand is the one closest to us? Which model? Thanks

OD+SJ "Legacy" 15oz. Selvedge Jeans (Comfort Tapered)

ODSJ001 Samurai Jeans Original 15oz. Unsanforized Selvedge Denim 100% Texas Cotton Comfort Tapered Silhouette Samurai Jeans Original metal hardware (Rivets and Buttons) Assorted Samurai Original 5 metal button fly "Yamato" Sakura inspired Rivets Silver Lamé Selvedge ID Fifth coin pocket...

www.okayamadenim.com

 

[DoubleDouble]

My jeans are fashionable, but it’s clearly for a younger crowd and not something you wear with a sports jacket.

For jeans that you can dress up the best options are Blackhorse Lane, Drake's (it's actually made by Blackhorse Lane), orSlow, and Resolute.

People will say that any denim is fine as long as it doesn't have flashy details (momotaro's stripes), but I'd argue the ones I mentioned are cut higher-waist than most, the silhouette can be more easily dressed up, and the details are both exquisite and understated.

 

[Shawnc]

Is there anything special to shortening the length on selvedge? My latest pair are too long and while I recently found a really good tailor, I doubt that she has experience with selvedge and I didn't know if the stitching on the outside posed specific challenges when hemming? If so, any suggestions on where I can find a tailor with selvedge experience?

 

[upsett1_spaghett1]

Is there anything special to shortening the length on selvedge? My latest pair are too long and while I recently found a really good tailor, I doubt that she has experience with selvedge and I didn't know if the stitching on the outside posed specific challenges when hemming? If so, any suggestions on where I can find a tailor with selvedge experience?

A good tailor should have no problem hemming selvedge, but if you're trying to keep them super legit and also maintain some resale value you are going to want to have them chain stitched. I'm lucky that my tailor can do a chain stitch hem, but a lot of tailors don't (although with how popular selvedge is these days it is slightly more common). Ask your tailor if she can chain stitch them, and if not ask her to mark them and send them to Blue Owl Workshop. They have a mail in service that is pretty quick and they're super nice.

 

[Shawnc]

A good tailor should have no problem hemming selvedge, but if you're trying to keep them super legit and also maintain some resale value you are going to want to have them chain stitched. I'm lucky that my tailor can do a chain stitch hem, but a lot of tailors don't (although with how popular selvedge is these days it is slightly more common). Ask your tailor if she can chain stitch them, and if not ask her to mark them and send them to Blue Owl Workshop. They have a mail in service that is pretty quick and they're super nice.

Super helpful advice. Thanks.

 

[upsett1_spaghett1]

Super helpful advice. Thanks.

You're welcome, enjoy the fades

 

[gaseousclay]

Is there anything special to shortening the length on selvedge? My latest pair are too long and while I recently found a really good tailor, I doubt that she has experience with selvedge and I didn't know if the stitching on the outside posed specific challenges when hemming? If so, any suggestions on where I can find a tailor with selvedge experience?

Chainstitch Hemming

We hem all brands of jeans purchased anywhere in the world using a vintage Union Special 43200G chainstitch machine. A hem done on a 43200G is one of those key details that can make or break a pair of jeans for many denim heads. The reason is the roping effect caused by a slight defect in the...

franklinandpoe.com