High Armhole...

[bigbris1]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

Does it just make sense for the general man's suit to have a high armhole accompanied by a generous upper sleeve? I have a lot of suits that have high armholes, but they are useless because the upper arm is so slim that the fabric just grabs the outer portion of my shoulder when I raise my arm, which moves the body body of the suit. Correct sleeve pitch at a normal standing position is good enough for me. I think an angled shoulder seam allowing the pack panels to be cut slightly on a bias gives the jacket more "stretch" as well.
May be the shape of the armhole, and not necessarily the width of the sleeve.

 

[Svenn]

Originally Posted by Lonneker

That's a pretty bold, general statement Svenn. I am not saying that I disagree, but any chance you can enlighten us on your experiences that led you to that conclusion?

I had a suit made by one HK's top tailors according to SF, and visited the other, and was disappointed in both (poorly shaped armholes and restrictive sleeveheads). I suppose there might be some great craftsman hidden in HK somewhere, but it's more likely that they just don't have the proper tradition of tailoring. If you listen to the stuff Despos, Jefferyd, Sator, and the other forum tailors talk about, and then try to have the same conversation with a HK tailor, you will see the disparity. I suppose if you fiddled around with a creative place like WW Chan, then maybe after 3 or 4 suits they'd have specialized things down like Despos talked about above; but otherwise you can't expect a whole lot from a place that is mass-producing suits over 5 day periods. I am entirely open to, and would gladly be proven wrong

Do you have any experience with them Lonneker?

 

[Despos]

Short, high and wide armhole with a wide sleeve with a short cap. They have to correspond. I just put new sleeves on a jacket for a client. Didn't change the armhole but he needed a wider sleeve. Doing so created enough comfort and movement.

If you get highly skilled tailors with sophisticated techniques in Asia you will pay similar prices to the rest of the world. Quality work exists there but it is not done quickly and not for low prices. Some of the best work shown at the last World Congress of Tailors was from Korea.

 

[A Y]

Originally Posted by Despos

Some of the best work shown at the last World Congress of Tailors was from Korea.

There used to be a poster here from Korea who would post his bespoke stuff. It looked really good.

--Andre

 

[amplifiedheat]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

Does it just make sense for the general man's suit to have a high armhole accompanied by a generous upper sleeve?

I believe this is Anderson and Sheppard's central tenet.

 

[entrero]

Originally Posted by Despos

Short, high and wide armhole with a wide sleeve with a short cap. They have to correspond. I just put new sleeves on a jacket for a client. Didn't change the armhole but he needed a wider sleeve. Doing so created enough comfort and movement.

If you get highly skilled tailors with sophisticated techniques in Asia you will pay similar prices to the rest of the world. Quality work exists there but it is not done quickly and not for low prices. Some of the best work shown at the last World Congress of Tailors was from Korea.

Got big sleeves, is possible to narrow it?

 

[Svenn]

Originally Posted by amplifiedheat

I believe this is Anderson and Sheppard's central tenet.

Unfortunately, I thought I read on the londonlounge that their suits have had lots of problems, and I think there was even a notorious pic thread where a A & S suit looked worse than MTM.

 

[TheTukker]

Originally Posted by Svenn

I had a suit made by one HK's top tailors according to SF, and visited the other, and was disappointed in both (poorly shaped armholes and restrictive sleeveheads). I suppose there might be some great craftsman hidden in HK somewhere, but it's more likely that they just don't have the proper tradition of tailoring. If you listen to the stuff Despos, Jefferyd, Sator, and the other forum tailors talk about, and then try to have the same conversation with a HK tailor, you will see the disparity. I suppose if you fiddled around with a creative place like WW Chan, then maybe after 3 or 4 suits they'd have specialized things down like Despos talked about above; but otherwise you can't expect a whole lot from a place that is mass-producing suits over 5 day periods. I am entirely open to, and would gladly be proven wrong

Do you have any experience with them Lonneker?

I have no personal experience with Yao, but have a few suits with high armholes from WW Chan. They work fine for me, but I am no ballroom dancer and don't think I share your passion for mobility. In any case, those are only two HK houses; I think there are some other, SF approved, ones, such as A-Man Hing Cheong. Not sure I have heard anyone share recent experiences with them.

Originally Posted by Svenn

Unfortunately, I thought I read on the londonlounge that their suits have had lots of problems, and I think there was even a notorious pic thread where a A & S suit looked worse than MTM.

+2

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by entrero

Got big sleeves, is possible to narrow it?

Narrow sleeves, yes. Make sleeves wider, only if you have outlets or new cloth to cut from.