hickey freeman suits good?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lynch_king, May 5, 2010.

  1. intent

    intent Senior member

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    They at least have outlets that have sales. Suits range from $400 (Burberry) to $900 on sale.
    Here are the details of the store I visited. Call them and see if they can ship to you. Last time I went there they were stocked with many sizes, solids, and Loro Piana fabrics. They also have sport coats and other articles of clothing. Hickey-Freeman Factory Store‎ 375 U.S. 1, Kittery, ME 03904-6508 (207) 439-8350‎
     


  2. stu00a

    stu00a Senior member

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    Can someone describe Vanguard and Barret's differences?

    I have Hickey Freeman suit and it's Vanguard model.
    Mine has single vent, pick stiching through the lapel and whole front, ticket pocket and med-high armhole, FF pants, soft shoulder.
    And I love it. I wish it was double vented but I don't care that much about it.
     


  3. Flimsychicken

    Flimsychicken Senior member

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    I've owned or currently own 6 or 7 HF suits and sport coats, including mainline, LTD., and Presidential/Bespoke Line. For the price, HF is a good deal when purchased on sale or online. The Loro Piana 130s is nice, although it does shine easily. The mainline are all fully canvassed, horn buttons, etc. The Ltd. are not nearly as good, though they can be a fair deal if you are in a pinch. Note, the new and familiar gray label is sometimes still only a Ltd. model suit. As far as I can tell, mainline suits will always have either a model name or a custom MTO name on the inner white tag (inside the breast pocket). If it says nothing or if it says "Ltd." then you know its not mainline. But, as I said, I've seen Ltd. suits with the gray label, so don't automatically assume its mainline just because it has the new label. If you are patient, you can easily find NWT HF suits on Ebay in regular patterns/colors (e.g., solid navy or traditional pinstripe) in varying sizes for <$400. For instance, there is this solid navy in a 37S for $325. If you know your size in their models (most on Ebay are Madison, some are custom made, and I've seen a few Vanguards and Barrett), then you should know exactly what you are getting. Most of the Ebay HF suits are double reverse pleat, but I've come across many flat front trousers as well. There are a lot of Ebay sellers that sell items from Last Call and/or Rack, such as katerosev, porquebb, and sandi122354. Their prices are always around the same ($300 to $400+). I've purchased items from all three sellers and have never had any complaints. IMO, It's hard to find a fully canvassed suit for that price anywhere else. EDIT: I've tried on the Barrett model. It's definitely a more modern cut, though nothing close to a RLBL or Bleecker cut. My best comparison as far as cut would be a BB Fitzgerald cut but without the slim lapels.
     


  4. lynch_king

    lynch_king Senior member

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    I've owned or currently own 6 or 7 HF suits and sport coats, including mainline, LTD., and Presidential/Bespoke Line. For the price, HF is a good deal when purchased on sale or online. The Loro Piana 130s is nice, although it does shine easily. The mainline are all fully canvassed, horn buttons, etc.

    The Ltd. are not nearly as good, though they can be a fair deal if you are in a pinch. Note, the new and familiar gray label is sometimes still only a Ltd. model suit. As far as I can tell, mainline suits will always have either a model name or a custom MTO name on the inner white tag (inside the breast pocket). If it says nothing or if it says "Ltd." then you know its not mainline. But, as I said, I've seen Ltd. suits with the gray label, so don't automatically assume its mainline just because it has the new label.

    If you are patient, you can easily find NWT HF suits on Ebay in regular patterns/colors (e.g., solid navy or traditional pinstripe) in varying sizes for <$400. For instance, there is this solid navy in a 37S for $325. If you know your size in their models (most on Ebay are Madison, some are custom made, and I've seen a few Vanguards and Barrett), then you should know exactly what you are getting. Most of the Ebay HF suits are double reverse pleat, but I've come across many flat front trousers as well. There are a lot of Ebay sellers that sell items from Last Call and/or Rack, such as katerosev, porquebb, and sandi122354. Their prices are always around the same ($300 to $400+). I've purchased items from all three sellers and have never had any complaints.

    IMO, It's hard to find a fully canvassed suit for that price anywhere else.

    EDIT: I've tried on the Barrett model. It's definitely a more modern cut, though nothing close to a RLBL or Bleecker cut. My best comparison as far as cut would be a BB Fitzgerald cut but without the slim lapels.


    wow very informative post, thanks.

    the white tag in the breast lapel says Canterbury

    but the rag is not like any of the other hickey freeman suits i've searched for it says

    Hickey Freeman
    For
    Nordstroms

    with the traditional white cross stitching.

    so im thinking it might be a diffsuion or a very low end model
     


  5. Flimsychicken

    Flimsychicken Senior member

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    ^^^ That sounds like an older mainline suit. Canterbury was HF's predecessor to the Madison cut (i.e., a traditional cut). They stopped making it a few years ago. But, I have seen the Canterbury cut on the current gray background label, so it can't be too old.

    I think every HF suit I've seen for Nordstroms is a mainline suit.

    What color is main inner tag? I think the order of HF tags, in reverse chronological order, is as follows: Gray background with white/silver script (current) > Black with white script (similar looking to the current gray background) > Black with white script and a red line > Black with a white script that says "customized clothiers" (IIRC) > an old looking white or silver label.
     


  6. lynch_king

    lynch_king Senior member

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    ^^^ That sounds like an older mainline suit. Canterbury was HF's predecessor to the Madison cut (i.e., a traditional cut). They stopped making it a few years ago. But, I have seen the Canterbury cut on the current gray background label, so it can't be too old.

    I think every HF suit I've seen for Nordstroms is a mainline suit.

    What color is main inner tag? I think the order of HF tags, in reverse chronological order, is as follows: Gray background with white/silver script (current) > Black with white script (similar looking to the current gray background) > Black with white script and a red line > Black with a white script that says "customized clothiers" (IIRC) > an old looking white or silver label.


    Oh wow its old then.

    It is the black back round, white text with Hickey freeman customized clothing on it.

    Would you say it was a good purchase/find ?


    here is the label
    [​IMG]
     


  7. intent

    intent Senior member

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    Oh wow its old then.

    It is the black back round, white text with Hickey freeman customized clothing on it.

    Would you say it was a good purchase/find ?


    here is the label

    As long as you didn't overpay for it, and it's in decent condition. I find old HF suits to have outdated lapels, just like old Oxxford suits.
     


  8. lynch_king

    lynch_king Senior member

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    As long as you didn't overpay for it, and it's in decent condition. I find old HF suits to have outdated lapels, just like old Oxxford suits.

    $50?
    looks pretty new/unused
     


  9. intent

    intent Senior member

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    $50?
    looks pretty new/unused

    Sounds fine to me if it's fine to you.
     


  10. dks202

    dks202 Senior member

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    Oh wow its old then.

    It is the black back round, white text with Hickey freeman customized clothing on it.

    Would you say it was a good purchase/find ?


    here is the label


    I own about 20 HF suits and sportcoats. That is an old label, maybe 20 yrs old, top of the line suit with lots of hand sewing. Good suit.

    Canterbury is still made for MTM and online models. That's the model that fits me best. Madison is a little more "modern" cut, a little slimmer.

    If there is a model name on the label (Canterbury, Madison, Boardroom), it is a mainline suit with plenty of handwork. If there's no model name and it may be a cheaper Ltd model, half canvas, mostly machine made.
     


  11. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    ..
     


  12. bluesdance

    bluesdance Well-Known Member

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    A few days ago I saw HF at Filene's Basement at Union Square. Don't know which sublabel it was though.
     


  13. Spark

    Spark Senior member

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    There are always a ton of HF suits and SCs at Nordstrom Rack where the first round of pricing will be $500ish for a suit and $350ish for a SC. The staple solids always disappear first, but if stuff lingers or gets sold and then returned, then prices drop considerably - 35% + off the first reduction.

    Some of the fabrics are nice, they seem well-made and I've seen more double vented models recently, but they all have way too much shoulder padding for me. Definitely more of a US silhouette...
     


  14. jacnyr

    jacnyr Well-Known Member

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    I just picked up a Hickey Freeman at Nordstrom Rack, it was %50 off reduced price. $1500 suit for $425. I have always heard good comments on the suits, it is just finding one I like and fits me well is the problem. I've been making weekly visits to the store, which one has to do to find something they like.
    I usually wear a 42R, and it was just to much for me with HF. I found a 42S and it fits great, just the sleeves and pants(which need much alterations to it, pants are usually a full cut).
    If you find one that fits you, you will be glad you got it.
     


  15. Timeless Fashion

    Timeless Fashion Senior member

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    Is HF Collection considered mainline? Is it an older line that has been discontinued?
     


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