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hickey freeman suits good?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lynch_king, May 5, 2010.

  1. lynch_king

    lynch_king Senior member

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    What is the general consensus on these suits?

    i didn't see much in the search thread, just saw that they go for ~$50 in the For Sale forums
     
  2. Twotone

    Twotone Senior member

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    The mainline/collection suits are great, but I'd stay away from the LTD. I have not seen their new Presidential line which is another step or two over mainline. I purchased four Madison suits from NM Last Call and Dillards sales for $300 -- $400.

    Twotone
     
  3. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    I have two mainline suits (one of which was purchased used) and am very happy with them both.
     
  4. kmdsimpson

    kmdsimpson Senior member

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    Hickey Freeman suits are great, if you stay with the mainline. In particular, the Madison model is a great suit. Fully canvassed. Just watch out for the lower end ones they sell at discount retailers - although I'm not sure how to tell them all apart, other than Madisons, which are clearly stated on the tags.

    The issue for me is that they don't fit me well - they are more of a traditional, American-style roomier fit. Otherwise I'd jump on HF in a second.
     
  5. onix

    onix Senior member

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    The mainline/collection suits are great, but I'd stay away from the LTD. I have not seen their new Presidential line which is another step or two over mainline. I purchased four Madison suits from NM Last Call and Dillards sales for $300 -- $400.

    Twotone


    So Presidential > Main Line > LTD

    Where is the Madison line in this line up? == Main Line?
     
  6. kmdsimpson

    kmdsimpson Senior member

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    So Presidential > Main Line > LTD

    Where is the Madison line in this line up? == Main Line?


    I am pretty sure Madison is a main line model. It retails for roughly $1,500, give or take depending on fabric. Madison is the model I am familiar with; there are likely other main line models I don't know about.
     
  7. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    So Presidential > Main Line > LTD

    Where is the Madison line in this line up? == Main Line?


    Madison is one of the models within their main line. Vanguard and Barret are other models within their main line.
     
  8. intent

    intent Senior member

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    Madison is one of the models within their main line. Vanguard and Barret are other models within their main line.
    Can someone describe Vanguard and Barret's differences?
     
  9. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Can someone describe Vanguard and Barret's differences?

    I have the barret (sp?) - it is much slimmer than the Madison. I never tried on the Vanguard.
     
  10. lynch_king

    lynch_king Senior member

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    It was at a thrift store. it is just the 100% wool jacket.

    the white tag in the pocket (in the pocket) says canterbury

    i have a secondary question, 100% wool suit coat with slacks, is it bad?
     
  11. gogators

    gogators Well-Known Member

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    somewhat off topic, but does HF have any sales? I've yet to see their staple navy blue on sale on the website...
     
  12. intent

    intent Senior member

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    somewhat off topic, but does HF have any sales? I've yet to see their staple navy blue on sale on the website...
    They at least have outlets that have sales. Suits range from $400 (Burberry) to $900 on sale.
     
  13. Patek14

    Patek14 Senior member

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    I have a mainline HF sportcoat - side vented madison model. Looks great, appears well made, good fit on me. For the right price, I would definetly buy more side vented madisons
     
  14. greekgeek

    greekgeek Senior member

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    HF makes a very good suit, especially so at discount.
     
  15. We Tigers

    We Tigers Member

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    somewhat off topic, but does HF have any sales? I've yet to see their staple navy blue on sale on the website...
    The cheapest you'll probably find them online is for just under $900 at Bluefly, which regularly has new Madisons in staple styles. I've heard they sometimes go on sale for about the same at Nordstrom's half-yearly sale in June. The best prices will be had at stores like Filene's and Saks Off 5th, which carry lots of the mainline suits (though often in wackier styles). They are great suits if they fit you well. I'm short but broad-shouldered, and find that HF suits are a great fit for my body type. The Madison is roomy, but still has a little bit of natural suppression at the waist and doesn't come close to looking billowy or shapeless, as many fuller cut suits do. Not a ton of style options--almost all the suits are center vents, classic American--but they really execute the styles they do well. As to the Vanguard model, isn't that their double-breasted one?
     
  16. intent

    intent Senior member

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    They at least have outlets that have sales. Suits range from $400 (Burberry) to $900 on sale.
    Here are the details of the store I visited. Call them and see if they can ship to you. Last time I went there they were stocked with many sizes, solids, and Loro Piana fabrics. They also have sport coats and other articles of clothing. Hickey-Freeman Factory Store‎ 375 U.S. 1, Kittery, ME 03904-6508 (207) 439-8350‎
     
  17. stu00a

    stu00a Senior member

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    Can someone describe Vanguard and Barret's differences?

    I have Hickey Freeman suit and it's Vanguard model.
    Mine has single vent, pick stiching through the lapel and whole front, ticket pocket and med-high armhole, FF pants, soft shoulder.
    And I love it. I wish it was double vented but I don't care that much about it.
     
  18. Flimsychicken

    Flimsychicken Senior member

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    I've owned or currently own 6 or 7 HF suits and sport coats, including mainline, LTD., and Presidential/Bespoke Line. For the price, HF is a good deal when purchased on sale or online. The Loro Piana 130s is nice, although it does shine easily. The mainline are all fully canvassed, horn buttons, etc. The Ltd. are not nearly as good, though they can be a fair deal if you are in a pinch. Note, the new and familiar gray label is sometimes still only a Ltd. model suit. As far as I can tell, mainline suits will always have either a model name or a custom MTO name on the inner white tag (inside the breast pocket). If it says nothing or if it says "Ltd." then you know its not mainline. But, as I said, I've seen Ltd. suits with the gray label, so don't automatically assume its mainline just because it has the new label. If you are patient, you can easily find NWT HF suits on Ebay in regular patterns/colors (e.g., solid navy or traditional pinstripe) in varying sizes for <$400. For instance, there is this solid navy in a 37S for $325. If you know your size in their models (most on Ebay are Madison, some are custom made, and I've seen a few Vanguards and Barrett), then you should know exactly what you are getting. Most of the Ebay HF suits are double reverse pleat, but I've come across many flat front trousers as well. There are a lot of Ebay sellers that sell items from Last Call and/or Rack, such as katerosev, porquebb, and sandi122354. Their prices are always around the same ($300 to $400+). I've purchased items from all three sellers and have never had any complaints. IMO, It's hard to find a fully canvassed suit for that price anywhere else. EDIT: I've tried on the Barrett model. It's definitely a more modern cut, though nothing close to a RLBL or Bleecker cut. My best comparison as far as cut would be a BB Fitzgerald cut but without the slim lapels.
     
  19. lynch_king

    lynch_king Senior member

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    I've owned or currently own 6 or 7 HF suits and sport coats, including mainline, LTD., and Presidential/Bespoke Line. For the price, HF is a good deal when purchased on sale or online. The Loro Piana 130s is nice, although it does shine easily. The mainline are all fully canvassed, horn buttons, etc.

    The Ltd. are not nearly as good, though they can be a fair deal if you are in a pinch. Note, the new and familiar gray label is sometimes still only a Ltd. model suit. As far as I can tell, mainline suits will always have either a model name or a custom MTO name on the inner white tag (inside the breast pocket). If it says nothing or if it says "Ltd." then you know its not mainline. But, as I said, I've seen Ltd. suits with the gray label, so don't automatically assume its mainline just because it has the new label.

    If you are patient, you can easily find NWT HF suits on Ebay in regular patterns/colors (e.g., solid navy or traditional pinstripe) in varying sizes for <$400. For instance, there is this solid navy in a 37S for $325. If you know your size in their models (most on Ebay are Madison, some are custom made, and I've seen a few Vanguards and Barrett), then you should know exactly what you are getting. Most of the Ebay HF suits are double reverse pleat, but I've come across many flat front trousers as well. There are a lot of Ebay sellers that sell items from Last Call and/or Rack, such as katerosev, porquebb, and sandi122354. Their prices are always around the same ($300 to $400+). I've purchased items from all three sellers and have never had any complaints.

    IMO, It's hard to find a fully canvassed suit for that price anywhere else.

    EDIT: I've tried on the Barrett model. It's definitely a more modern cut, though nothing close to a RLBL or Bleecker cut. My best comparison as far as cut would be a BB Fitzgerald cut but without the slim lapels.


    wow very informative post, thanks.

    the white tag in the breast lapel says Canterbury

    but the rag is not like any of the other hickey freeman suits i've searched for it says

    Hickey Freeman
    For
    Nordstroms

    with the traditional white cross stitching.

    so im thinking it might be a diffsuion or a very low end model
     
  20. Flimsychicken

    Flimsychicken Senior member

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    ^^^ That sounds like an older mainline suit. Canterbury was HF's predecessor to the Madison cut (i.e., a traditional cut). They stopped making it a few years ago. But, I have seen the Canterbury cut on the current gray background label, so it can't be too old.

    I think every HF suit I've seen for Nordstroms is a mainline suit.

    What color is main inner tag? I think the order of HF tags, in reverse chronological order, is as follows: Gray background with white/silver script (current) > Black with white script (similar looking to the current gray background) > Black with white script and a red line > Black with a white script that says "customized clothiers" (IIRC) > an old looking white or silver label.
     

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