Hickey Freeman Handsewn model

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnnynorman3, Mar 8, 2005.

  1. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Yesterday I purchased, for a grand total of $450 (covered entirely with a store gift card I got as "points" for prior purchases.), a Hickey Freeman suit. This isn't just an ordinary Hickey Freeman though -- but it was priced like one, fortunately -- but rather was made as a "sample" for the Fall 2002 line.

    The label inside the suit says "Hickey Freeman" and underneath that another label says "Handsewn." I examined the suit and the collar, sleeves, and lining are attached by handstitching The front of the coat is finished with handpicking. The lapels are hand-padded. The pants are finished with similar handpicking along the fly and pockets. The pants have a great fit with a split back waistband (normal rise though). Buttonholes are handsewn.

    The suit is a high-gorge, double vented, with unfinished sleeves that can be cut with working buttonholes. The shape of the lapels look nothing anyother Hickey I've seen. The shoulders remind me more of Kiton than of Hickey Freeman -- soft, lightly padded, narrower, sloped (though not overly so), with a soft "poof" (not firm roping) at the sleeve head. It is a three button that rolls 2 1/2 -- a true Neopolitan three button (i.e. the lapel rolls to about halfway between the second and third button -- just perfect). The waist is moderately suppressed. Unlike other Hickey's, I could wear this as is, though will probably get the waist taken in about one more inch.

    As for fabric -- it is a dark grey (with brownish undertones) glen plaid with a rust overpane in what I'd call a 2 1/2 to 3 season weight. Clearly an English worstered. Very soft hand, but also very sturdy.

    Anyone know exactly what I've bought here? This is not a HF Customized, but rather appears to be a one of a kind handsewn model. The fit, handwork, and softness makes it every bit the equal of Oxxford IMO. However, the styling strikes me as the perfect joining of American and Neopolitan. I've never seen this type of HF before and am excited to know what the deal is.
     
  2. kabert

    kabert Senior member

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    I've seen a few of those from time to time at Filene's Basement. I recall seeing at least one that had an original retail price label of something like $2,250. They are extremely nice and are just as you described. I assumed that they were most likely part of a true custom-made suit program that HF has (I suppose) but that didn't work out and so was never delivered to the customer.
     
  3. cuffthis

    cuffthis Senior member

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    Show us some pics, please [​IMG]
     
  4. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I'll try to take some pics this week. Promise.

    This suit wasn't from a custom made program -- I've seen those ones as well. Those have a lot of handwork, but not as much as this one. This is totally different. The tag says "Sample" in it, as does a little metal tag that is still looped inside on of the buttonholes (err, hanging by a string looped inside a buttonhole).

    This suit does not have the price on it -- whereas even the custom made HF's have the price on the sleeve tag.
     
  5. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    HF carries a handmade model called the Edward, which retails for ~$2500. It is a really beautiful model and not as boxy as some of the other models (Boardroom, Canterbury, etc.).
     
  6. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I think the model I have might be called "Rochester" (I'll have to check again). I imagine it is of the same ilk as the Edward, in terms of price then. I wonder if this suit model never took off -- does it being a "sample" from 2002 indicate that the model was not in existence until 2002?
     
  7. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    I believe the Edward model is still sold in the HF stores. Bergdorffs also carries a handmade HF model, not sure if it is the Edward.
     
  8. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    I believe that this "top of the line" Hickey Freeman is sold in Bergdorf's and Neiman's.
     
  9. regularjoe

    regularjoe Senior member

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    I saw one of these animals lumped right in with other HF in a Filene's Basement. Very gorgeous. Luckily, not my size...
     
  10. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    What FB? I got mine at Downtown Crossing in Boston. Maybe I bought the suit you saw.
     
  11. regularjoe

    regularjoe Senior member

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    No, this one was in Wash, DC @ the National Press Club Filene's.

    Anyone who is 44L looking for a black windowpane 2-button number have a potential steal on your hands. The amount of handwork is extraordinary.
     
  12. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I agree on that. Anyone near there should at least check it out to see if you like the fabric. Perhaps it's a "sample" like mine was. I'm not going to assume anything, but my sense is that a sample like this was probably tailored by Hickey's best tailors (i.e. not simply a factory, assembly line job). In addition, the fabric is probably top of the line in terms of quality in a sample. I tried the jacket on mine on again last night, and it is just butter.
     
  13. NoVaguy

    NoVaguy Senior member

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    Hmmmm, I might have to stop by and check it out.
     
  14. oscarthewild

    oscarthewild Senior member

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    I have one of these rochester models. Amazing. I like it better than the Isaia and the Oxxford. In my opinion it runs circles around the Oxxford. The "feel" is Kiton like definately. Not so much Chester Barrie.

    -
     
  15. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Oscar, you are making me want to leave work early so I can rush the thing to the tailor to have the sleeve buttonholes cut... [​IMG] "Runs circles around the Oxxford" -- I feel exactly the same. FB had a superb Manhattan II -- three season, charcoal grey Super 130s, with aqua blue pinstripes. Simply a fantastic cloth in a suit whose cut I very much like (very American, sure; but a incredibly soft silhouette that is a joy to wear). Even if the Hickey Rochester would have been the same price, I would have without doubt chosen it over the Oxxford. It really is that good. I will definitely post pics of it soon.
     

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