HF Mainlaine Madison - Fused???

[eztantz]

Was in NM last call yesterday and checked over some HF Madison suits (not Ltd line) and they appeared to be fused. I own two Hickey Freeman suits both of which are canvassed. I know the Burberry suits made in USA by HF are fused but I thought the HF suits above the Ltd were all canvassed. FWIW the lapels are canvassed but I guess they are going cheaper overall. My method is to rub the sleeve and the material from the front of the jacket - if it is fused the jacket front will be thicker and heavier than the sleeve and if it is canvassed they will feel exactly the same. Can anyone confirm this or perhaps I am just off in my canvas testing?

 

[asdf]

Originally Posted by eztantz

Was in NM last call yesterday and checked over some HF Madison suits (not Ltd line) and they appeared to be fused. I own two Hickey Freeman suits both of which are canvassed. I know the Burberry suits made in USA by HF are fused but I thought the HF suits above the Ltd were all canvassed. FWIW the lapels are canvassed but I guess they are going cheaper overall. My method is to rub the sleeve and the material from the front of the jacket - if it is fused the jacket front will be thicker and heavier than the sleeve and if it is canvassed they will feel exactly the same. Can anyone confirm this or perhaps I am just off in my canvas testing?

Uhhh the jacket front will be thicker and heavier than the sleeve regardless (??). I think your testing method is off.

My HF Madison is canvassed, and my HF made Burberry is half canvassed (i think).

 

[dropout5]

Originally Posted by asdf

Uhhh the jacket front will be thicker and heavier than the sleeve regardless (??). I think your testing method is off.

My HF Madison is canvassed, and my HF made Burberry is half canvassed (i think).

i pinch the front to see if the outer fabric can be pulled apart from the inner material. if not, it's fused.

 

[asdf]

Originally Posted by dropout5

i pinch the front to see if the outer fabric can be pulled apart from the inner material. if not, it's fused.

The key is the existence of three layers, thickness is irrelevant....

.... i think.

 

[Twotone]

My HF Madison and Boardroom suits are fully canvassed, not fused.

Twotone

 

[taxgenius]

Where does the sleeve come into play here?

It's fully canvassed.

 

[eztantz]

Originally Posted by asdf

Uhhh the jacket front will be thicker and heavier than the sleeve regardless (??).
Wrong.

Originally Posted by asdf

The key is the existence of three layers, thickness is irrelevant....

.... i think.
Wrong again!

Originally Posted by taxgenius69

Where does the sleeve come into play here?

It's fully canvassed.
Read this.

Really not that different than a pinch test although searching for a 3rd piece of mateial is a bit more time consuming. You will inevitably feel the fabric being pulled from the canvas as you rub it even if you cannot feel the actual canvas.

 

[taxgenius]

Originally Posted by eztantz

Wrong.

Wrong again!

Read this.

Really not that different than a pinch test although searching for a 3rd piece of mateial is a bit more time consuming. You will inevitably feel the fabric being pulled from the canvas as you rub it even if you cannot feel the actual canvas.

The conclusion therefore, is that the more time consuming process is the more accurate method.

 

[asdf]

Originally Posted by eztantz

Wrong.

My point is that while cloth + canvas is indeed "thicker" than cloth alone, so is cloth + fusible. Therefore the chest is always "thicker" and hence that method doesn't make sense. There is no fusible in suit sleeves.

... and Madison's are canvassed.

 

[eztantz]

Originally Posted by taxgenius69

The conclusion therefore, is that the more time consuming process is the more accurate method.
To the contrary - I believe that it is not needed as it would be impossible for a fused suit to feel equally as thin as the rest of the suit fabric such as the sleeves.

Originally Posted by asdf

My point is that while cloth + canvas is indeed "thicker" than cloth alone, so is cloth + fusible. Therefore the chest is always "thicker" and hence that method doesn't make sense. There is no fusible in suit sleeves.

... and Madison's are canvassed.
I'm sorry but you appear to be unable to read anything properly. Firstly, when you feel it pulling away from whatever it is connected to you will be feeling only fabric, and fabric + nothing is thinner than fabric + fusible. Secondly, I never said anything about canvassed or fusible in sleeves nor did I say ALL Hickey Freeman suits are fused. In my OP I was quite clear that I own two of them that are canvassed. I said the ones I saw in NMLC were not - but since you have gone ahead checked all the suits made by HF I gather you are the final authority. I suggest you read the posts properly before adding your pointless observations. I apologize for your stupidity.

 

[TonyThe Tailor]

Here lately I have had several Madison models in my shop for alterations that were 1/2 canvas and the sleeve interlining is fused too...

 

[eztantz]

Originally Posted by TonyThe Tailor

Here lately I have had several Madison models in my shop for alterations that were 1/2 canvas and the sleeve interlining is fused too...
Thank you! I knew I wasn't totally off...

 

[phxlawstudent]

Originally Posted by asdf

My point is that while cloth + canvas is indeed "thicker" than cloth alone, so is cloth + fusible. Therefore the chest is always "thicker" and hence that method doesn't make sense. There is no fusible in suit sleeves.

... and Madison's are canvassed.

Not really. Properly done canvassing is free floating. While you may be grabbing both the canvas and cloth in your first pinch, moving your pinching fingers to another area will give you a better sample. Rubbing the cloth in between your fingers will usually separate any residue static cling and separate the free floating canvas piece from the cloth.

Fusibles can give a false positive if you don't know what your doing. You can separate the first layer of fusible from whatever else is in there. Thereby creating the illusion of a third separate layer. Or the manufacturing method could actually create three separate layers, but that doesn't make it a free floating canvas, it just means that the glued stuff to the wool is thinner and theres another piece floating around in the chest.

 

[bobtrash]

11 years later...seems like none of this is written in stone. I see half canvass with light fusible now. Chest pieces that mimic a canvass layer when pinch testing. But no half canvass just fusible. Canvass that doesn't extend to the lapel so you get a flat 2 dimensional cheap look. So today it's hard to tell without cutting the lining. Or asking the suit maker exactly what they are making. Good rule: the less said about construction methods the cheaper the suit. If it is canvassed the ads will say it. If they don't forgetaboutit.