I don't follow so called rules but over the years I have found my preferences that work for me living in the Midwest. Pleated pants in wool and chinos. Pleated linen trousers in summer. Church's leather shoes and Sperry CVO in various colors. Summer shirts in linen both long and short sleeved. I never roll up a long sleeved shirt, it seems silly to me. Blazers whenever necessary, contrasting color with the trousers. I need contrasts in color no matter what. I never wear suits, not necessary for me. I had an ivory shawl collar jacket like Bogart in Casablanca. Worked well with Navy blue wool trousers with a stripe of fabric added to the trousers. I never wear black. Seems morbid to me. I need color. Lots of jackets to keep warm. Two Burberry trench coats, one double breasted and one single button stance.