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Hemmed Pants Questions...

Jay687

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So I got some pants tailored and have two questions:

1. The lighter colored pants (khaki chinos) have visible stitching. Will this go away with washing? Or is it a result of bad tailoring? The originaly hem had about 1/3 the amount of sticthes, so they were more sparse. Additionally, they weren't as noticeable either... despite being same thread color. Also, if the pants shrink (cotton) and I needed to get the hem adjusted... would the stitching being taken out leave noticeable marks?

Picture:




2. My pants have narrow openings. I based the inseam measurement on the break I wanted. Which was a slight break. I neglected to realize that because they are cut horizontally this slight break would mean the sides/back of pants would be a bit high. Just curious what you guys think.

Picture:

 

BBC

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What you have there is the result of a lazy tailor/alterationist. The top picture shows a badly executed "blind" stitch, but with a decent tailor those stitches should not be visible because they'll own a real blind stiching machine or will do it by hand without visible stitches on the outside of the pants. They externally visible stitches will not go away with washing. If it really bothers you, you can take them to someone else and tell them you want a real blind stitch (the older stitch marks will not show).

The second photo shows a lazy tailor who didn't do a guardsman's hem on uncuffed pants. With a guardsman's hem the tailor will literally hem the pants with a slant at the bottom so the front is shorter and the back is longer (should touch the top of the welt on your shoes).

All that said, no one will every really notice those two issues - it just depends on the level of "perfection" you want to attain.
 

Jay687

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Alright, thanks.

Well, fortunately the bad tailoring on the wool pants I have aren't noticable. Can't see the stitching.

And the lack of the slant doesn't bother me much. I wore them today and although felt odd at first, I don't mind.

I might go to a better tailor to redo the khakis and another pair of chinos because the first one did them unevenly. He did a pair of the wool ones unevenly as well, significantly so... went and got them redone, free of charge for the mistake. I was afraid I'd get stictch marks on the khaki ones so didn't bother. However, will go get them redone somewhere else, not so much because of "visible" (it is hard to notice) but more so because they are uneven inseams.

Definitely not a good tailor. Oh well... live and learn.
 

kohelet

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Originally Posted by BBC
What you have there is the result of a lazy tailor/alterationist. The top picture shows a badly executed "blind" stitch, but with a decent tailor those stitches should not be visible because they'll own a real blind stiching machine or will do it by hand without visible stitches on the outside of the pants. They externally visible stitches will not go away with washing. If it really bothers you, you can take them to someone else and tell them you want a real blind stitch (the older stitch marks will not show). The second photo shows a lazy tailor who didn't do a guardsman's hem on uncuffed pants. With a guardsman's hem the tailor will literally hem the pants with a slant at the bottom so the front is shorter and the back is longer (should touch the top of the welt on your shoes). All that said, no one will every really notice those two issues - it just depends on the level of "perfection" you want to attain.
Agreed! A hand sewn blind stitch hem should create an invisible binding on your pants, take a needle, grab one to two threads and sew away. It is pretty simple. Then again I have been sewing for 16 years.
If you're not happy with the hem, get your money back, undo the seam, use an exacto knife, remove the thread, attach a basting tape, and learn how to sew a blind stitch.
 

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