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Help with suit jacket and pant sizing!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Bond23, Jun 2, 2011.

  1. Bond23

    Bond23 Member

    Dec 1, 2008
    Looking to get a suit tomorrow (Alfani Line at Macys).

    My chest measures 37-38", although the one suit jacket I have, from the same Alfani line, is a 36R. It looks great but does fit a tiny bit snug in the shoulders (albeit not a bad "snug"), but otherwise is fine unless I am doing the "fat guy in a little coat" motion. It also buttons fine.

    I tried a 38R and while it did give me a bit better range of movement, and was more comfortable, it didnt LOOK as slim and tailored as the 36R. I'm pretty much between sizes. Is it really that important that I have ample mobility? Or do I go for what looks best, and ignore the measurements (chest size and waist drop size) that say I SHOULD be using a 38?

    As far as pant sizing, does a smaller waist size inevitably mean a slimmer pant leg? I tried on some W30 and some W32. While the 32's fit me perfectly, I much preferred how the 30's fit everywhere else (seat/crotch/etc) besides the waist of course, where they barely buttoned. Would it be wise to buy a W30 and get it let out a bit? Or buy the W32 and alter it?

    *Pics included to show 36R fit.*

    Thanks gentlemen I appreciate it in advance.



  2. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

    Jul 2, 2006
    Cambridge, England
    You can probably ignore the sizing and get the 36. I would guess that 'Alfani' are cut quite large, as are most cheap brands, so you can get away with sizing down like this. If it were a slimmer brand like RLBL then you would probably want to go with a 38.

    Yes, a smaller size trouser usually means slimmer everywhere. It will usually be best to get the size 30 then let the waist out as altering the waist is usually an easy alteration, though I'm not sure exactly how you go about letting them out if they do not have a split waistband. Obviously you should check that there is enough spare fabric inside the rear seam to let them out enough. Expensive trousers will have at least a couple of inches spare along with a split waistband to make the alteration easy, but 'Alfani' may not.
  3. Octoberfile

    Octoberfile Senior member

    Nov 24, 2010
    Los Angeles, CA
    If you're looking at an Alfani Red, they're pretty slim fitting, yet more proportional than some of the other OTR "slim-fit" suits out there. This means that the jacket length and sleeves won't have that pee-wee herman/thom browne shortness that so many young guys find so appealing.....this might also be why you prefer the fit of the Alfani 36R to the 38R, even though the 38R shoulders fit better.

    OTR suits almost always need to be tailored, and Alfani is no exception.....the shoulders should fit comfortably....you don't want your shoulders to fit too broad or too tight. You do need room in your suit to move around and you definitely want to avoid having to look like a fat guy in a little suit if you have to move your arms. As long as the shoulders fit, any extra fabric in the back can be eliminated and some waist supression should create a slimmer silhouet.

    The best results for the pants are to go with your waist size and slim the legs a bit. Alfani red pants are slimmer than they feel, but they will probably still need to be slimmed. Moderately reducing the leg width, while maintaining the natural waist band will allow for better proportions and your front and back pockets won't look distortedly spaced further apart.....every jacket is designed to provide a degree of volume in the upper body and too skinny pants could throw it all off balance.

    Bottom line....if you're going to buy OTR, then find a good tailor.

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