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Help with Styling Contemplated WW Chan Suit

teddieriley

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As much as I'm vastly entertained by the recent tournament, back to the clothes.

I got an appointment with Chan mid-March. I'm looking at getting a SB Peak Lapel Suit. I don't want it styled as a traditional business suit as I have enough of those. However, I'm thinking of getting the suit in a basic navy pinstripe. What are people thoughts on SB Peak Lapel Suits in terms of Lapel Width, Gorge Height, and #Buttons.

I was thinking SB Peak Lapel, normal gorge height, 3 button-2 roll. Should the gorge height be adjusted and should I rethink the button-roll? And in terms of width, what is considered "normal" for a SB Peak Lapel? I prefer the lapel to sit a bit higher on my chest, within an acceptable range (i.e. not going too close to my shoulder line), how would I achieve this effect? I'm thinking of getting a vest as well, so I'm guessing a low gorge and will be necessary for the whole look to be right?

Also, in terms of fabric, this being my first suit, I want it under a G, any suggestions for a 120s? I don't like flannel material, prefer something year round weight for California weather. Thanks guys.

Edit: added thing about vest.
 

Mr. Pink

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On my first suit, I picked a 10 oz VBC 110. Total price was just over $1k. I don't know if it's possible to come in under that unless there is a special fabric. On the last tour, there wasn't.

I think peak lapels look best on one or two button jackets.
 

teddieriley

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While I'm at it. What can one expect from the roadshow? Do you get measured, then Chan makes the whole suit and mails it to you after several weeks and if you need to fix it, you go back in July at his next visit to tell him what needs fixing, leave the suit with him, and they mail it back again later?
 

Master Shake

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Reubencahn beat me to it. I agree that a peak lapel SB works best with one or two buttons. Since this is going to be for casual events, I would go with just one button.
 

Vintage Gent

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Originally Posted by teddieriley
What can one expect from the roadshow? Do you get measured, then Chan makes the whole suit and mails it to you after several weeks and if you need to fix it, you go back in July at his next visit to tell him what needs fixing, leave the suit with him, and they mail it back again later?

That's about right, although you should replace "several weeks" with "three months." My first suit had several serious concerns. I went back on the next tour and left the suit with Patrick. The concerns were more than adequately addressed.
 

maxnharry

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1. Agree with the consensus that it should be a one or two button.

2. On my last creation:
-Had them measure me and pick the fabric
-Had them bring the suit during their next tour for a basted fitting
-Had them mail the suit to me when finished (if I hadn't been pressed for time, would have done a final on tour)

This is not their preferred way of doing it, but they will accomodate
 

teddieriley

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So no 3 button-2 roll here? I suppose that would be problematic with showing the vest underneath as well. I definitely don't want a one button. I wouldn't say the suit is for "casual events." I'd wear it to work, to weddings, and any fancy dinners. Hell, I'd even wear it to client meetings.
 

Mr. Pink

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Unlike VG, I wasn't able to leave the suit with Patrick and had to mail it back to Hong Kong. In some ways this was beneficial as I was able to wear the suit one or two more times and note one additional item to be taken care of. I received the suit back at the beginning of this month followed by an e-mail asking that I advise on the success of the alterations before Chan proceeds with the suit I ordered in November. The first suit is nearly perfect with one (to me) glaring problem. The rear of the jacket is not hanging correctly. I replied to the e-mail including pictures. Chan immediately responded asking for additional pictures. The point of this long-winded reply is that Chan is very responsive to the customer but dealing with a tailor located in Hong Kong necessarily presents complications. If I were doing it over again, I would use the method suggested by maxnharry for a first suit.

On the button issue, I personally think the one button to be more dressy than the two. I have no authority for this proposition. It just appears that way to me.
 

teddieriley

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I think I know what it is, but for clarification, can someone explain to me what a basted fitting is? I imagine is involves an incomplete suit that can be easily adjusted, but to what extent?
 

Master Shake

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Originally Posted by teddieriley
So no 3 button-2 roll here? I suppose that would be problematic with showing the vest underneath as well. I definitely don't want a one button. I wouldn't say the suit is for "casual events." I'd wear it to work, to weddings, and any fancy dinners. Hell, I'd even wear it to client meetings.
My mistake. In that case, two buttons. And you're right, that will help with showing the vest.
 

JLibourel

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With the dollar being in the state that it's in, I don't think you are going to get a suit from Chan for less than $1K if you choose any kind of decent fabric. I suggest you budget about $1,300, as you should be able to get a pretty decent fabric for that.

Before having any strong preconceptions, I strongly suggest you work with Patrick Chu and get his recommendations. Are you meeting him in Beverly Hills or San Francisco? I'll be meeting him at BH to commission a new jacket. In any event, he has a very good eye for what a man needs.

Chan is usually pretty good about getting things right the first time. The fit on the first suit I ordered from Chan wasn't quite perfect (would have liked a tad more waist suppression and slightly shorter sleeves), but that doesn't prevent it from being the best suit I own. (I have only ordered jackets, not suits from Chan since then. I'm eagerly awaiting my November order, which was promised before the end of this month). My stepson's half-brother got a suit from Chan on the July tour and was delighted with its fit.

I don't know why you are so admantly against a one-button with your peak lapel. I think it can be very elegant.
 

teddieriley

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Thanks for the responses so far.

I'll be at Beverly Hills in the morning. From what I've read, a few people have gotten suits recently (within the past year) for just shy of $1K at ~$970. The one I'm thinking about was someone recently posting they got a Zegna Trofeo fabric. I suppose if I throw in a vest it will be over $1K. But we'll see. I'm not going to jump to the H&S book just yet.

I'm not really adamant about not getting a 1 button. I'm trying to walk the fine line of having a more fashionable looking suit (as oppose to a strictly banker conservative one), while allowing it to function in more formal settings. I don't think peak lapels on a SB preclude that, with the one button, it might be on the side of less appropriate in work settings. That is one of the reasons why I want a navy pinstripe.

I'm not really in a rush for this thing. I suppose what I'll do is get fitted in March, make an appointment for July to have a basted fitting, and have Chan send me the thing in August. I can wait, if it will ensure something closer to what I want (although I realize it won't be perfect for my first suit).

I'm still open to suggestions of suitable fabrics and any other comments to the question in my OP.
 

maxnharry

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I think your plan sounds solid and have to agree with Jan, that you should consider a one button suit. For leisure wear, I think they are very handsome.

As for Chan getting things right, Jan is right on the money. I have found them exceptionally easy to work with an always ready to please. I continue to be a very happy customer of theirs.
 

DandySF

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Chan is able to offer different weights for the jacket's inner lining. It's worth discussing this point with Patrick. I chose a lighter lining for my second order, which just arrived. You also have options with the degree of structure in the shoulder pad. After adjusting these two variables, Patrick has produced a jacket that I'm delighted with.
 

Mr. Pink

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Originally Posted by maxnharry
As for Chan getting things right, Jan is right on the money. I have found them exceptionally easy to work with an always ready to please. I continue to be a very happy customer of theirs.

I would agree and didn't mean to imply anything to the contrary. Chan has been very responsive. But my experience, like VG's, is that the first suit is necessarily a bit of a work in progress. Depending on how picky you are, you may be well served by having a basted fitting at the next tour.

On fabrics, I would recommend looking at VBC. It gets good recommendations from those with knowledge of such things and it is close, if not at your target price. The H&S will push you up around $1350 for a two piece suit. As to pattern, when I was considering ordering my first suit from Chan, several knowledgeable people recommended choosing a solid to hide any small flaws likely on a first effort.

On style, I really like the look of the one button with a peak lapel. Patrick defaults to a higher button stance. I think it's very nice looking but may not be optimal if you want to show your vest. Patrick also defaults to a pretty high gorge though I would guess this would necessarily be slightly lower on a peak lapel. You might also think about how much you would like the peak to "rake" upward, whether you want the lapel to have a belly (curve outward) and how wide you would like it.

Finally, I think it's well worth taking a written list of the things you want because it's very easy to forget items while you're wrapped up in the excitement of ordering the suit, and pictures because it helps to communicate what you're looking for.
 

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