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Help with starting a wardrobe and style advice

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NeedStyleHelp, Dec 6, 2012.

  1. NeedStyleHelp

    NeedStyleHelp Senior member

    Nov 25, 2012
    After reading countless threads, I have decided to improve my wardrobe with quality pieces, but I need some advice in areas.

    *NOTE* I am in no immediate rush to make any purchases - more of an update over time.
    Also I live in Toronto


    What would be a better option: Buy OTR Canali, E. Zegna or other quality suits and get them tailored, or go to a MTM or bespoke tailor. If OTR, should I shop around in Toronto, or make a trip to the states? If MTM or bespoke, who? I've researched many Toronto tailors, is there anyone that stands out to you?


    I think I've decided to go the route or MTM or bespoke. My question is, would you recommend an online tailor like MyTailor where the shirts can come a little cheaper, or go in person, where they personally measure you, but it's a little more pricey?


    Trousers are my obsession! I think I will go bespoke or MTM. My question is, is it possible to attain a no break hem where my pants wont be rising up whenever I walk? Do I need to taper the trouser leg opening to a smaller size? What size?


    I'm looking for a pair of black Oxford's and a pair of brown ones. I've heard good recommendations for Alden's and Allen Edmonds. Thoughts?

    I know these are pretty open ended questions, but any advice, thoughts or tips would be helpful!
  2. MRMan

    MRMan Senior member

    May 11, 2012
    I will provide my 2 cents as I am also in Toronto and have been slowly updating my wardrobe over the past year:

    Suits – Take the time to research what a good fitting suit looks like wrt to shoulders, chest, length, balance, etc. Also evaluate what suits you have and what gaps you are looking to fill. Navy and Dark grey/charcoal first if you don’t already have ones you are happy with.

    If you can find a good deal on a decent half or fully canvassed suit at a local brick & mortar, and the fit is good based on your research of what a proper suit should fit like, by all means get it and tailor it to make it even better. In Toronto, the markup at Holt’s or Harry’s is absurd in my opinion. Give Brooks Brothers a shot too, as prices and quality are alright.

    SuitSupply is a decent option coming soon to Toronto. The quality to price ratio is surprisingly high from what I’ve seen. SuitSupply offers MTM as well, as does forum member Kent Wang who provides probably the best value around for a fully canvassed MTM suit.

    Nothing of course beats the customizability and fit of bespoke. I as well have looked and am not happy with local bespoke options in Toronto – not a fan of the house styles (I favour the A&S and Neopolitan take). The alternative is to travel to NYC and consider a local or travelling tailor as they have an abundance of both. I don’t think this is viable though unless you have other reasons to be visiting NYC every 3-6 months for fittings.

    If you are patient and don't mind some risk, quality items pop up here on the Buy & Sell and of course on ebay. Look into return policies and ensure accuracy of the stated measurements.

    Prices with online MTM shirts are low in comparison to trousers and suits, so in my opinion it’s worth the risk even if several iterations are required before dialing in the right fit. I’ve used both moderntailor and Luxire with great success.

    Most men who opt for no break are comfortable with a little bit of sock showing when walking. Provided the leg opening is sufficiently small this looks fine in my opinion. If you like no break, no cuff and want no sock to show, you can ask your tailor to do a slanted or military hem that slopes downwards slightly from front to back. This is apparently a much trickier and costly alteration if you prefer cuffs and is generally not done.

    Allen Edmonds are a good entry-level goodyear-welted shoe. The Park Ave in black and Strand in Walnut or brown would cover most situations. Depending on your daily work wear, you may want to consider some more casual bluchers in brown calf, suede, or shell instead of or in addition to the Strands to better work with odd trousers. Alden has some great shell options. If you have the budget, some may advocate for jumping into the mid-tier directly (Crocket & Jones, Carmina), which has pros and cons.

    Hope that helps,

    <Edited: forgot about Brooks Brothers>
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2012
  3. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

    Oct 25, 2006
    New York City
    OTR. Don't go with MTM or bespoke until you know a lot more, both about what looks good, and what you like. So, so many MTM disasters when people jump right in.

    Unless you have a really odd body shape, OTR will fit you just fine, and you'll know what you are getting.
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2012
  4. NeedStyleHelp

    NeedStyleHelp Senior member

    Nov 25, 2012
    Thanks for the responses!

    Ya, I've been trying to do as much research as I can - there's is much to learn!

    I was thinking of taking a look at HR Last call (I live rather close), but was also thinking about Saks in Buffalo for a weekend trip.

    I think my problem I have with my trousers now is the leg opening. I don't mind showing a little sock, but when I walk it rises up and because it is a bigger leg opening it like sways when I walk - if you know what I mean.

    As for buying shirts online, what process did you find best for the measurements. Sending your own, sending a well fitted shirt, or getting measured when they came around? What are some good fabric options?

    BTW I really appreciate all the help you've provided thus far. Like I mentioned, I've done a bunch of research, but just hard when you haven't actually gone through the experience, and don't want to make a mistake as it can be pricey.


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