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Help with shoe fit: wide front, straight big toe

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Drovosek, Feb 13, 2016.

  1. Drovosek

    Drovosek Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2016
    Hello gentlemen,

    Please help me to find brand/shoe with very unusual last: wide front and big toe is not curved.

    Most of normal fitting shoes I've tried on are too narrow at front. Most of wide fitting shoes are too wide at heel and/or arch.
    Almost all shoes are designed for curved big toe so my toe doesn't fit.

    Broadway 2 loafer of Herring on "Stepney" last is close to what I need, but it's not ideal. And they don't make another styles on the last.

    Do you know where should I look for the fit?

    Thank you!


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  2. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

    Messages:
    765
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2011
    
    I'd try lasts like Alden's Barrie or Trubalance, though they might have the same problem of width in the heel for you. Alden are pretty good about offering different widths--much better than almost any European maker--and they include different heel widths. [​IMG] You might also try sizeadvisors.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. ekul

    ekul New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2010
    How did you get on?

    This was pointed out to me while my feet were being assessed for a mountain boot fitting. Apparently it's quite unusual for the big toe to have not been distorted over time by footwear. My feet aren't wide but they do have that same straight line from the outside back of the heel, through the toe joint and to the big toe. This explains why my big toe rubs in otherwise well fitting Cheaney and Crockett & Jones shoes.

    From what I can tell we're looking for something called a banana last shoe -- an asymmetric last design where the inside line of the shoe goes straight ahead before sweeping out smoothly on the outside. The Vass P2 might fit the bill. In terms of English shoes the 109 last from Alfred Sargent might also be worthwhile looking at. I haven't tried either yet.

    If you did find something that fits the bill I'd love to hear about it!

    Kind Regards

    Luke
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2016
  4. Drovosek

    Drovosek Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2016
    I wasted money on a few pairs before I realized that my fit is irregular. I haven't found anything good so far. My best fitting shoes are mass market ecco and cohnpol.

    I haven't found anything in Alden store in San Francisco. The most promising last is "modified" and they don't have it. I haven't found good fit in Allen Edmonds. I wear their Leeds 2.0 wide, but the fit is less than very comfortable at heel and big toe. Broadway 2 of Herring ended up being very uncomfortable at heel and sides.

    The 109 last looks promising, I tried a couple of sizes and they are all too small so far, I'm planning to order the next size. I'm starting to think about bespoke.

    Thank you!
     
  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker

    Messages:
    8,220
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    Actually, it is not unusual for the heel to be narrower relative to overall width than the forepart. But more importantly, the straight first toe and the straight line along the medial side of the foot from heel to ball is actually a sign of a very healthy foot. We are all born like that (barring congenital anomalies) . Wearing shoes that do not fit force changes to foot that are often irreversible.

    That said, while a bespoke fit...esp. in today's market...might be the only option, severe lasts, such as a "banana" shape are not the answer. The "banana" last is for people with foot deformities that force the first toe medially beyond that straight line.

    The real problem is that manufactures make shoes for a statistical and market average. Once upon a time, fittings were nearly infinite---many combinations of heel and forepart widths were available. The basic set is A, B, C, D, and E. Yet most manufacturers only produce a D and and E. I don't know of a single RTW maker who offers a full basic range of widths much less the extremes such as AA or EE, etc., or combination fittings either, for that matter. If the stats show that they only sell one pair of A width shoes in a given season, the A width last will be eliminated from what the company offers.

    The same holds true for accommodating the straight first toe--manufacturers are responding to the market and so many people have never really and truly been fit. And as a consequence, their feet tend to become permanently set in unhealthy configurations.

    But the straight toe configuration is the better and healthier one...so much so that the US military had a a last designed (can't remember what it was called this morning) that was so shaped. And it is still praised and much sought after to this day.

    [On edit: I remember the name of the last...it was / is called the "Munson" last. Quite highly regarded even famous.]


    edited for punctuation and clarity
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  6. Drovosek

    Drovosek Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2016
    Just an update.

    I found that Birkenstock fits me perfectly. Unfortunately I don't like look of their shoes and I would wear them only if I absolutely have to.
    Their boots look ok as work boots for very casual wear. I've bought a pair. It's waxed leather, clumsy design and nose lined with fabric, but I somewhat like it:
    [​IMG]

    I think that Alden Modified would fit me (http://www.styleforum.net/t/234635/alden-modified-last-if-you-wear-or-are-interested-please-read). I haven't had a chance to try them on so far. If I'm in New York sometime, I'll definitely try it on and probably buy a pair or two.

    Also, I placed an order to make a pair of bespoke shoes. I hope it will be great.
     
  7. Drovosek

    Drovosek Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2016
    Just googled a store in Paris where Alden Modified is sold probably. Nice pictures: http://anatomica.fr/souliers.html.
    Paris is a little closer than New York which is good.
     

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