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Help with OneSuit fabric: W W Chan

KObalto

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I am at best an aspiring medium-timer in the sartorial world and will most likely never be a patron of Savile Row or Neapolitan tailors, but it occurred to me that I could probably spring for a Chan suit when he comes through DC this summer. It wouldn't actually be a OneSuit as I have quite a few others, but it would be my go-to Sunday-go-to-meetin' suit so I thought I'd get something conservative business dress in navy. Any thoughts on which cloth would be most versatile, keeping in mind I lve in the Mid-Atlantic region where the weather goes from 20 degrees F to 95 and muggy?
This is, of course, in no small part, a pathetic attempt to appease the GucciMonster:
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=181340
 

dragon8

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I'd go with a lightweight or at most a medium weight fabric only because you can put on a overcoat or a raincoat over it in the winter time.
 

poorsod

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Originally Posted by yfyf
I'm a big fan of Crispaire, H&S's version of Minnis's Fresco. Looks good in blue too but the slightly coarse texture may not be for everyone.

I'm a convert to fresco. Drapes well and relatively wrinkle resistant. Get it either 1/2 or 1/4 lined so that it breaths well - important in high humidity. Problem is Chan doesn't like to make 1/4 lined.

Note: This is not FNB approved. Wear at your own risk.
 

TheFoo

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I looked at Crispaire recently: don't like it. It's too smooth and fine. If you're going to go fresco, go fresco.
 

offline

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Chan will also show you another H&S lightweight range just slightly more substantial than crispaire. I've actually chosen it for two suits in a row now, after thinking at the outset I wanted crispaire. I found more appealing colors and patterns in that series, and the fabric felt and looked finer.

Chan will totally make 1/4 lined. Just be firm if that's what you want and they are ultimately happy to do anything.
 

Mr. Pink

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
I looked at Crispaire recently: don't like it. It's too smooth and fine. If you're going to go fresco, go fresco.

I've read this several times. I think it may be accurate of some of the fabrics in the book but not all. I just ordered a blazer in a navy wool/mohair blend from the book. I ordered it in part because it is quite a rough texture.
 

taxgenius

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Originally Posted by Mr. Pink
I've read this several times. I think it may be accurate of some of the fabrics in the book but not all. I just ordered a blazer in a navy wool/mohair blend from the book. I ordered it in part because it is quite a rough texture.

Which wool/mohair blend did you order? I am thiking of the same.
 

Mr. Pink

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Originally Posted by taxgenius69
Which wool/mohair blend did you order? I am thiking of the same.

It's a 10 oz, dark navy, 30% mohair. I don't know the number, but I'll try to check when I see the my tailor next--probably this Friday.
 

JLibourel

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How about Harrison's Frontier? Its fairly open-weave, yet heavy enough (11 ounces) so that's not totally tropical and drapes better than a lot of lighter fabrics. It might be a good compromise. My most recent acquistions from Chan have been from Harrison's Frontier--a blue blazer (November tour) and a tan summer suit (March tour). I think it's also one of the least expensive British fabrics Chan handles.
 

Svenn

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I like this phrase 'OneSuit,' though as a fellow medium/low-timer, I might just note that the distance-tailored WW Chan stuff, from looking at previous threads and pics on the matter, doesn't look that great to me. It seems to have the usual wrinkles, dents, and ruffled messiness of just regular MTM. I've decided to pay the extra grand to go to HK this summer, since the real value of his suits only seems to come out when you can get multiple fittings and alterations all at once, there at the shop.
 

maomao1980

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what's the name for Dormeuil's version of Fresco? Love that stuff
 

yfyf

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Originally Posted by maomao1980
what's the name for Dormeuil's version of Fresco? Love that stuff

Tonik?

The composition ratio changes all the time though, they've had several "versions" of it since it was first launched.

They also have a new book using Camdeboo mohair called "Phantom". It was pretty nice but pricey as hell. I'm not that crazy about mohair in general, though.
 

kolecho

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Crispaire is like a more porous version of typical plain weave. Its greys do not have the same richness as a traditional Fresco that is still made by Minnis. Crispaire's hand, however, is a lot smoother.
 

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