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Help with dark grey fabric for 2nd Chan suit

Young Pro

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Gents,
I'm contemplating a second commission from Chan - a solid / semi-solid in dark grey or charcoal, since my first was a solid navy. I live in Toronto, and am looking for a 3 season suit, so all the fabrics here are 9-10 ounces.

Patrick sent me a bunch of pics, if any of you have any experience with them, or just general opinions please share. It's tough getting a feel for the fabrics through pics, so I will only order if I'm very comfortable with whatever fabric I ultimately choose.

Scabal Four Seasons, 120s, 9oz, $1,849




JJ Minnis Saville Row Classics, 120s, 9/10 oz, $1,497


H Lesser, super 120s, 9/10 oz $1,759


Harrisons Cru Classe, 120s, 10z, $1,605




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DandySF

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Did you specifically request 120 cloth? I'm leaning a bit more toward 100 since it's a bit sturdier and less prone to wrinkling.
 

Young Pro

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Originally Posted by DandySF
Did you specifically request 120 cloth? I'm leaning a bit more toward 100 since it's a bit sturdier and less prone to wrinkling.

I didn't, I actually just requested fabrics in the 9-10oz range from those merchants.
If anyone has any insight into the durability of the above fabrics, that would be much appreciated.

Didn't mention it before, but also open to other fabric suggestions.
 

TheTukker

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Nice fabrics, but a bit too plain for me. He made me a suit in the attached Harrison's bird's eye last fall, which I am pretty happy with. Seems pretty durable to me.

Also, it looks like his prices have gone up again...
 

patrickBOOTH

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Originally Posted by DandySF
Did you specifically request 120 cloth? I'm leaning a bit more toward 100 since it's a bit sturdier and less prone to wrinkling.

Yeah, I don't get anything over 120's they aren't very durable. I would only go over 120's if I had 50+ suits to rotate.
 

Toronto34

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The 2nd scabal, all the rest seem a little plain
 

gdl203

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Out of these, I like that last Harrison
 

krakatoa

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I had Chan make a suit last year from the first Scabal fabric (751298), and am very pleased. Although it's four season fabric (and I was concerned it might be too heavy for southeast Asia, where I live), I've found the weight of the cloth works well for me, at least indoors.
 

Young Pro

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Originally Posted by krakatoa
I had Chan make a suit last year from the first Scabal fabric (751298), and am very pleased. Although it's four season fabric (and I was concerned it might be too heavy for southeast Asia, where I live), I've found the weight of the cloth works well for me, at least indoors.

Any chance you could post a pic? Would love to get different shots of the fabric since they can look so different in artificial/natural light, etc...
 

Svenn

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Originally Posted by Lonneker
Nice fabrics, but a bit too plain for me. He made me a suit in the attached Harrison's bird's eye last fall, which I am pretty happy with. Seems pretty durable to me.

Also, it looks like his prices have gone up again...


+1. I'm planning on doing CMT with Yao and am bringing in a 16oz twill. I'm not sure I believe it but someone said fabrics with textures, especially twill, drape better and cleaner than flat ones.
 

DandySF

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Isn't a 16 oz twill extraordinarily heavy, equal to the coldest days of winter?
 

Svenn

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Originally Posted by DandySF
Isn't a 16 oz twill extraordinarily heavy, equal to the coldest days of winter?
It was standard weight for indoor suits a few generations ago... I realize it's gonna be warm but it will supposedly provide a much cleaner appearance and mask any wrinkles the tailoring might have created. One poster here put up a pic of himself in a 20 oz suit and I think it looked great. 16 oz is in the tweed arena, the coldest days of winter (in the northern US) call for overcoat fabrics above 20 oz I believe. There are 16oz designed for suiting and those designed for coating, and they can look totally different depending on how tightly woven the wool is.
 

TheTukker

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Originally Posted by brittain
I really like that birdseye.

Many thanks - I actually got the idea after I saw one of your posts here with, I believe, a navy HS bird's eye. Oops, I hope that doesn't mean I stole your swagger..

Originally Posted by Svenn
It was standard weight for indoor suits a few generations ago... I realize it's gonna be warm but it will supposedly provide a much cleaner appearance and mask any wrinkles the tailoring might have created. One poster here put up a pic of himself in a 20 oz suit and I think it looked great. 16 oz is in the tweed arena, the coldest days of winter (in the northern US) call for overcoat fabrics above 20 oz I believe. There are 16oz designed for suiting and those designed for coating, and they can look totally different depending on how tightly woven the wool is.

If you' want that weight for draping purposes but are concerned about it being too warm, wouldn't it help if you get it 1/4 or 1/2 lined?
 

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