Help with bandhgala / Nehru jacket

[aj_del]

Hi

I intend to get a bandhgala (which is literally closed neck in Hindi) or a Nehru jacket as it know here on SF. It would be a suit rather than a jacket. This type of suit is generally considered to be the most formal suit for men in these parts. Its something like a formal business suit, black tie and white tie rolled into one. I wore one to my elder sister's wedding.

I have some questions

1. What color should I get it made in. I want to get a plain black but a lot of people feel that midnight blue is better than black for black tie.

2. What cloth - Is barathea the traditional cloth for black tie and if so, any particular reason why. I dont supposed standard black flannel or worsted would be acceptable as per SF. What would be the reservation against something like plain black worsted in 12 oz weight.

3. Does one wear a PS with this sort of thing

I had other qs as well but seem to forgotten them right now. I will ask later.

Any other comments/ suggestions ....

Best regards and thanks for reading.

A pic of the bandhgala as done by Canali. It is not 100% accurate as the band at neck does not pin up at the center

 

[Eustace Tilley]

That's a pretty nice look. Isn't that the garment visiting Indian PMs wear to White House dinners and the like?

1. I like midnight blue and much prefer it to black. Its a much richer color and looks great.

2. Barathea is standard, but quite honestly regular worsted works just as well. A big SR tailor often recommends dinner jackets made from the midnight blue cloth from the Lesser Super Tropical book.

3. I would, but something subdued. Maybe a black or dark navy with white pindots. Or a solid.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Btw, unlike the Canali pic, I wouldn't get flapped pockets on such a garment.

 

[someotherstyle]

Look to Giorgio Armani for inspiration on interpreted versions. He's been doing versions of them since the 80s, although they are probably not traditional (I would not know).

 

[Metlin]

Isn't black considered "inauspicious" in most parts of South Asia? In which case, midnight blue would perhaps be much better. Not to mention that to ET's point, it would look much richer as well. As far as a PS is concerned, the original Nehru jacket (i.e. the ones worn by Nehru himself) did not contain any visible pockets, only side pockets (similar to a kurta). So, you could pull a true Nehru and wear a rose on what passes for your lapel instead.

 

[aj_del]

Thank you all for your comments

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Btw, unlike the Canali pic, I wouldn't get flapped pockets on such a garment.
I have never understood the difference between flapped pockets with the flaps tucked in and besom pockets. What is it

Originally Posted by someotherstyle

Look to Giorgio Armani for inspiration on interpreted versions. He's been doing versions of them since the 80s, although they are probably not traditional (I would not know).
I am not looking to get an interpreted version. I am looking for a classic version.

Originally Posted by Metlin

Isn't black considered "inauspicious" in most parts of South Asia? In which case, midnight blue would perhaps be much better. Not to mention that to ET's point, it would look much richer as well.
It used to be along with white for women (widows were supposed to wear only white ) but not anymore. My father passed away but my mother never took to white. My wife OTOH has a couple of white saris (with sequins) that she wears only to cocktail parties.

Originally Posted by Metlin

As far as a PS is concerned, the original Nehru jacket (i.e. the ones worn by Nehru himself) did not contain any visible pockets, only side pockets (similar to a kurta). So, you could pull a true Nehru and wear a rose on what passes for your lapel instead.

Actually what Nehru wore is more of a achkan rather than a 'Nehru jacket'. An achkan is much longer garment and falls somewhere around the knee. The Canali pic is much closer to what I want than an actual pic of J Nehru. J Nehru generally wore this but this is not what I want to get.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

No difference really, but 2 pts to note:

1. If the flaps aren't tucked in neatly, or if the pockets aren't proportioned correctly, then the pocket will bulge in an unflattering manner when you tuck in the flaps
2. Importantly, if you're going to tuck'em in anyway, why even get the incorrect pockets?

 

[aj_del]

Follow up qs

1. What the rule regarding cuffs on trousers w.r.t. black tie

2. Should the buttons be fabric covered ones

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by ccc2010

yup, why? just curious about the answer.

Is the question: why are flaps inappropriate for such a coat?

If so, my understanding is that this is the modern Indian equivalent of a dinner jacket / tuxedo (AF: set me straight if I'm wrong). It certainly looks so from the pic, and the brief internet search that I ran.

Traditionally men's evening wear is meant to be as streamlined as possible, as men are meant to be the mere backdrop to the colorful gowns and jewelry of the ladies. Nothing to distract from the silhouette and simplicity of the accompanying shirt, bow, studs etc. That's why dinner jackets do not traditionally even have vents (single or double) and are typically ventless. As Manton would say, its just the "rules". Right or not, the tradition calls for such a jacket not to have flaps, vents, ticket pockets etc.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by aj_del

Follow up qs

1. What the rule regarding cuffs on trousers w.r.t. black tie

2. Should the buttons be fabric covered ones

1. Def no cuffs

2. Typically they are (not sure how this strict this rule is though)

 

[musicguy]

I see orchestra conductors wearing this all the time. Usually it's in black and doesn't look very good. I'd say no white PS, but a striking solid color could work. Red or yellow works particularly good.

I'm sure you know the colors better than me, but I've seen it in charcoal, brown, beige, white and cream in India... the dark charcoal looks good in the Canali.

 

[aj_del]

How wrong is it have double vents with black tie ?

 

[AE7]

What about the stuff Mandela and Ahmadinejad is wearing?