Help Vox select a bespoke shirtmaker

[Xiaogou]

Originally Posted by Will

My Hemrajanis are not baggy. They are in fact exact copies of my bespoke Turnbull & Asser shirts.

So, MyTailor couldn't make the product on their own? I am sure I can find dozens of tailors in China who can copy something/anything. I am more interested in someone who can produce something original. I don't think anybody is copying MyTailor shirts.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by Xiaogou

So, MyTailor couldn't make the product on their own? I am sure I can find dozens of tailors in China who can copy something/anything. I am more interested in someone who can produce something original. I don't think anybody is copying MyTailor shirts.

Your post said that they are baggy. Mine said that the shirts they make for me are not. I didn't think we were discussing who invented the shirt.

 

[ChicagoRon]

My real vote is for Kabbaz but... since we're on the subject, I have seen some custom shirts samples in the Loro Piana store in Chicago, and I was very impressed. Anybody else familiar with their work? Opinions? Since I did not see them ON the person for whom they had been made, I could not really judge the tailoring.. just the quality of the fabric and details.

 

[Maximillion]

Knowing that Vox does not need any help

my answer: Charvet makes nice shirts. I am not happy with value for money (>400 Euros)- but hey - I am European and there are a lot of more affordable alternatives around - since Vox might not care, its def a good shirt and imho the service and the quality much better than the "attempts" in London (TA, HH - EW is a little better, haven't seen shirts from the lady that travels with Mahon yet). I wouldn't buy another british shirt.

If money is no issue I would go for Matuozzo BUT there might be huge savings for a similar shirt if one is looking for a less "branded" tailor in Naples, Sicily or a lot of other places in Italy. But language might be a problem.

Since I needed a lot of fittings to get the collar right - and still experiment a lot with collars - I would always go for a tailor that is close to my place or travels there often (once a month) - imho a lot more important than some minor differences in a handmade buttonhole....but that's just my 2 cents. That's why I still work with a small tailor in Berlin - even if the shirt has some minor flaws regarding quality of the handwork (still a lot better than the British shirts).

Regards,

Max

Max

 

[Sterling Gillette]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I was seriously considering Kabbaz last year. He prefers fused collars for most fabrics, but he will do an unfused collar if that is what you want.

Note that the preponderance of my RTW shirts are from the usual Neopolitan suspects, and they all fuse their collars. Unfused collars get massacred at most American commercial laundries. Few remain who will hand press a shirt.



I would if our planned trip to southern Italy ever would pan out. When you have a five year old in school, you find that your leisure travel schedule has suddenly become quite regimented. Moreover, now that he's learned how to swim, we're anxious to return to our annual trips to Tahiti, which leaves less time for other leisure destinations.

Maybe we'll go to Italy this coming summer...we'll see.

In the meantime, though, I want to get going on shirts. I am set on this point to see Robert Whittaker this month. I received some thoughtful messages from a couple of his current clients who are delighted with him.

I like his connection to the old Bowring. I prefer to think that some of that old magic survives through his work.

But...I probably will try another shirtmaker or two as well.

- B
I understand your struggle in finding a good laundry. Most of us might have similar problems. Anyway, I --personally-- would not want a bespoke shirt for a price many of the not-so-freaky guys pay for two pairs of shoes with a collar that can be produced on a machine in two minutes. But let's not turn this into a fused vs. non-fused fight.

Originally Posted by Maximillion

Knowing that Vox does not need any help

my answer: Charvet makes nice shirts. I am not happy with value for money (>400 Euros)- but hey - I am European and there are a lot of more affordable alternatives around - since Vox might not care, its def a good shirt and imho the service and the quality much better than the "attempts" in London (TA, HH - EW is a little better, haven't seen shirts from the lady that travels with Mahon yet). I wouldn't buy another british shirt.

If money is no issue I would go for Matuozzo BUT there might be huge savings for a similar shirt if one is looking for a less "branded" tailor in Naples, Sicily or a lot of other places in Italy. But language might be a problem.

Since I needed a lot of fittings to get the collar right - and still experiment a lot with collars - I would always go for a tailor that is close to my place or travels there often (once a month) - imho a lot more important than some minor differences in a handmade buttonhole....but that's just my 2 cents. That's why I still work with a small tailor in Berlin - even if the shirt has some minor flaws regarding quality of the handwork (still a lot better than the British shirts).

Regards,

Max

Max
Very reasonable approach.

 

[Xiaogou]

Originally Posted by Will

Your post said that they are baggy. Mine said that the shirts they make for me are not. I didn't think we were discussing who invented the shirt.

You're right and I apologize for changing the subject. I should have stated that in my opinion, when MyTailor is not copying a shirt, the ones that they produce on their own [design] are baggy or cut too full. Again, just my opinion.

 

[brax]

I've heard very good things about both Geneva Shirts and Paris Shirts in NYC.

 

[RSS]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Unfused collars get massacred at most American commercial laundries.
It can bring tears to one's eyes.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

In the meantime, though, I want to get going on shirts. I am set on this point to see Robert Whittaker this month. I received some thoughtful messages from a couple of his current clients who are delighted with him.
Bowring used to make for me ... but I haven't used the old staff since they landed at Dege. Those were decent shirts ... and there are one or two I still wear.