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Help Please in getting a bespoke suit made

stuey

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F. Corbera

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Why did you decide to get a bespoke suit and who will your tailor be?
 

stuey

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I'm going to this place http://www.custommen.com/

I got a job, one of the perks was a suit and shirts from that place. I have a big back and chest, but skinny waist. So off the rack stuff never fits, unless its severely altered by a tailor.

Ill use the suit once a month for parties. weddings, events etc.

Thanks
 

unbelragazzo

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If I were going to have one good suit, I'd probably want it a little bit darker of a grey than that. I assume you'll want it to be a suit for all seasons, so you'll probably want to get a medium weight worsted wool. The one button in the photo also would be a little too distinctive for your only suit. Two button is the current standard. If you are more slender, then flat front, if you're wider, then a pleat or two. Personally I prefer a single pleat. Notch lapels are the most versatile, get a width that's proportional to your shoulders, like Beckham in the picture.
 

F. Corbera

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I've never heard of them.

I suggest wearing your favorite suit or jacket to your first meeting with them, and go over (1) the specific aspects of style and fit that you like about your favorite clothes that you want them to incorporate and (2) and specific aspects of style and fit that you don't like about which you expect them to do better. Then, listen to what they have to say and what they advise. If they promise the sun and the moon (which is the mood of their website), you should be skeptical and restrain your hopes for an outstanding outcome.

There is no reason to expect to much out of a free suit. Have fun with the process.

It's fine to have Beckham in Tom Ford (as in the photo to which you linked) as your objective as long as you understand that a Midtown storefront that sells kosher suits might not be fully imbued with a Tom Ford aesthetic much less the ability to produce it at a particular price point.
 

a tailor

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Sorry its not a bespoke suit, its a made to measure.
I hope they did not represent it as such.
 

Despos

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I'm scheduled for my first meet next Monday with a tailor to get a suit and 3 shirts made. This will be my first bespoke suit. Can anyone offer me any advice regarding color? Lapel style? Fit? Fabrics? 1,2 or 3 button? pant style?

I'm thinking a medium dark grey. Something similar to the one in the link below. I'm very young still, so this is a big treat for me.

Thanks guys

Take some time and expose yourself to what options are available to you and get acquainted with the different silhouettes that are out there regardless of the price of the suit. If you can, get to a men's store or several stores prior to your visit to the tailor to try on different styles and see what you like. Try peak lapels, notch, single breasted and double breasted, plain front and pleated trousers etc. You can take your time and see yourself in the style you are considering. Try different brands to see the various cuts and how they look on you. Pay attention to the shoulders and learn what the differences are. This will help you identify a style that you prefer and you'll be more comfortable when you order your suit. Try a range of colors, light to dark to see what you like. Think of the occasions you will wear the suit and pick a color that is appropriate. Light colored suits aren't as formal and very dark suits may make you feel overdressed for some events. This learning curve won't be available to you at the tailors.

You want comfort above all regarding fit. The collar should hug your neck and you don't want diagonal lines or pulling under the arms on the front or the back. When you try on the suit you want it to look good from the front , back and side view. From the side you don't want to see the fronts or back flaring out or hiking up but to lay close to the body.
Trouser waist should fit close enough to stay in place but not tight to make you feel uncomfortable. No baggy seat or rippling on the back of the thighs. Nice clean fit. You want to decide ahead of time if you want pleats or plain front trousers and if you want them with cuffs or not.

You will have to pick a collar style for the shirt so figure out how you will tie your necktie, what type of knot you like and get a shirt collar that accommodates the knot and looks balance with it.
Keep the shirt style and fabric pretty basic like a white, light blue and a stripe. Remember, it's about how nice the shirt looks with the suit more than just how much you like the color or the pattern of the fabric.
You have to do your homework, no one can tell you what to get without knowing you or seeing you. You won't figure all this out in a day our two but you will be better prepared if you do some sampling of different suits beforehand.

All the samples of their work look like the same cut on different bodies so you won't get a lot of unique expression in your garment, such is the downside of MTM.
 
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