Help on fit

[othertravel]

How are the armholes? Are armholes that are fitted and positioned so the jacket won't move when my arms are lifted to much to expect from MtM?

Armholes that let you move like Cagney in the picture in this link:

http://mydapperself.com/jacket-armholes-why-you-should-care/

It depends on the base template the company used to create the mtm suit. Some have low armholes, some are higher. Samuelsohn for example has MTM models that have both.

Depending on your budget, you might want to try Paul Stuart. Their MTM program has a good reputation.

 

[AlphaOmega19]

Thanks. I am scheduling am appointment to go back in for alterations or a remake.

I was expecting it to fit more like theses examples from their website. If they got the fit close these would it be better?

 

[AlphaOmega19]

Would any additional pictures help? I want to know everything I should tell them about alterations/remake when I see them.

 

[ericjens7]

Trousers: looks like you stand with your hips forward. Creating those drag marks behind the knees. Can't tell seat or waist in the photos.
Coat: it seems you stand erect and surprising it also looks like they got the front back balance correct... from what I can see. The drag marks on the back below the arm pit tells me you have sloped shoulders that need to be accounted for. Your left shoulder is low and you have a prominent blade. There is also that damn pesky collar roll. Fronts are tight. Length needs to be added to the lap. Button stance is too high. If the MTM company can fix all of this I would hold on to them like grim death.
Good luck

 

[AlphaOmega19]

Trousers: looks like you stand with your hips forward. Creating those drag marks behind the knees. Can't tell seat or waist in the photos.
Coat: it seems you stand erect and surprising it also looks like they got the front back balance correct... from what I can see. The drag marks on the back below the arm pit tells me you have sloped shoulders that need to be accounted for. Your left shoulder is low and you have a prominent blade. There is also that damn pesky collar roll. Fronts are tight. Length needs to be added to the lap. Button stance is too high. If the MTM company can fix all of this I would hold on to them like grim death.
Good luck

Do you mean if the MtM company can fix all the messed up things about my body? Or fix the suit?

 

[ericjens7]

Do you mean if the MtM company can fix all the messed up things about my body? Or fix the suit?

Haha, if only they could fix all of our body problems
No, I was referring to their ability to fix the suit or cut a new one that attends to the problems.

 

[AlphaOmega19]

Haha, if only they could fix all of our body problems
No, I was referring to their ability to fix the suit or cut a new one that attends to the problems.

(If only a suit could fix my body. I could stop doing therapy for my shoulder.)

I guess what I'm asking, do I have a body that is particularly difficult to get a suit to fit well? Will I have to get a fully custom suit to get a good fit?

 

[ericjens7]

It depends on how much you are willing to settle. We all have "tough to fit" bodies. I am of the opinion that we all need bespoke suits (in a perfect world). The problem with MTM is that a salesman or alterationist with no fit experience is taking custom measurements. And then trying to translate that to a factory a million miles away. It's just not conducive. If you look at the tailor's fit help thread here on styleforum you will see that it is laced with MTM fit problems just like yours. I think it's a crap shoot.
My advice is threefold and probably pretty harsh. Firstly I would suggest saving your money for Bespoke. Second piece of advice would be to just buy off the rack. It's less money, takes less time and you will probably have the same ill fitting suit as you would through MTM. Third piece of advice is to keep trying MTM but drastically lower your expectations.
As a caveat, I must be forthright and inform you that I have trained as a bespoke tailor for the last 7 years and I might be extremely bias.

 

[AlphaOmega19]

It depends on how much you are willing to settle. We all have "tough to fit" bodies. I am of the opinion that we all need bespoke suits (in a perfect world). The problem with MTM is that a salesman or alterationist with no fit experience is taking custom measurements. And then trying to translate that to a factory a million miles away. It's just not conducive. If you look at the tailor's fit help thread here on styleforum you will see that it is laced with MTM fit problems just like yours. I think it's a crap shoot.
My advice is threefold and probably pretty harsh. Firstly I would suggest saving your money for Bespoke. Second piece of advice would be to just buy off the rack. It's less money, takes less time and you will probably have the same ill fitting suit as you would through MTM. Third piece of advice is to keep trying MTM but drastically lower your expectations.
As a caveat, I must be forthright and inform you that I have trained as a bespoke tailor for the last 7 years and I might be extremely bias.

I appreciate your help. Bespoke is probably out of my price range. This suit does fit better than my off the rack suits. My arms are pulled fairly forward. I've worked with a therapist on this, but it is a bone structure thing so they are always going to forward, absent breaking of dislocation my collar bones. this causes a lot fit problems. Also, even off the rack suits with really high armholes seem really low to me because of how my arms suit.

I also have a problem with of the rack in that chest is a little over 39 while waist is about 31 with my hips/seat also a 39.

As a tailor, do you think I can get a better jacket fit if I have them remake the suit, or this as good as it's going get without going bespoke?

 

[ericjens7]

I appreciate your help. Bespoke is probably out of my price range. This suit does fit better than my off the rack suits. My arms are pulled fairly forward. I've worked with a therapist on this, but it is a bone structure thing so they are always going to forward, absent breaking of dislocation my collar bones. this causes a lot fit problems. Also, even off the rack suits with really high armholes seem really low to me because of how my arms suit.

I also have a problem with of the rack in that chest is a little over 39 while waist is about 31 with my hips/seat also a 39.

As a tailor, do you think I can get a better jacket fit if I have them remake the suit, or this as good as it's going get without going bespoke?

I would say have them remake but it is a gamble. I would have an honest conversation with them about what they can and can't do in regards to cutting a suit with your specific issues in mind. If they alter the suit you currently have they won't be able to do much about how tight the coat is or most of the issues with the back. They will probably let it out and hopefully deal with the collar roll. For the trousers they will probably only take in or let out the waist seat and crotch. Talk to the reps and see what they can offer you. If it's better than what you get off the rack then by all means pursue it.

 

[AlphaOmega19]

I would say have them remake but it is a gamble. I would have an honest conversation with them about what they can and can't do in regards to cutting a suit with your specific issues in mind. If they alter the suit you currently have they won't be able to do much about how tight the coat is or most of the issues with the back. They will probably let it out and hopefully deal with the collar roll. For the trousers they will probably only take in or let out the waist seat and crotch. Talk to the reps and see what they can offer you. If it's better than what you get off the rack then by all means pursue it.

Thanks. I'll talk to them to see what they can offer. Maybe I had too high of expectations. I'm also not that experienced, so I don't know if this a terrible fit for MtM or as good as can be expected. That is, on a scale of 1 (worst) to 5 (best) for expected fit for a MtM, is this a 1? 2? 3.5? 4? Maybe people could offer their ratings.

The pants as they fit now are just not wearable with any comfort, but maybe they can let our the seat. The jacket is also restrictive off my movements in the front, and it sounds like they can't really alter that.

 

[AlphaOmega19]

Can anyone comment on the armholes height? Should I have them raised on a remake?

 

[othertravel]

Thanks. I'll talk to them to see what they can offer. Maybe I had too high of expectations. I'm also not that experienced, so I don't know if this a terrible fit for MtM or as good as can be expected. That is, on a scale of 1 (worst) to 5 (best) for expected fit for a MtM, is this a 1? 2? 3.5? 4? Maybe people could offer their ratings.

The pants as they fit now are just not wearable with any comfort, but maybe they can let our the seat. The jacket is also restrictive off my movements in the front, and it sounds like they can't really alter that.

I'd give it a 2. I recommend finding another place. Like I mentioned above, you have less risk with the larger outfits (Paul Stuart, Brooks, Nordstroms, etc...) as they'll usually stand by their work (also easier to get a refund/remake if it comes out badly).

 

[AlphaOmega19]

I'm planning on sending them an email on the issues everyone has addressed plus some of my own.

"I took some pictures of some of the issues I want to address.

Pants: Crotch/seat too tight. Too uncomfortable to wear for any length of time. Feels like a wedgie. Drag marks behind the knees.

Coat: Fronts are tight, jacket is pulling excessively. Button stance is too high. Tight in the mid section. Drag marks on the back below the armpit. The back is a little messy. Some collar roll. Sleeve is rumpling--sleeve head needs rotated? Jacket is short, length needs to be added to the lap. Jacket does not move with me-- is very restrictive of my movement.

I am comparing how the suit fits to these photographs from your website."

Anything else that I need to address? Armholes height?

Thanks for everyone's help

 

[AlphaOmega19]

Thanks for the help everyone. They are going to do a remake. My only question is should I have the lapels wider? They 2.75" for 39" inch chest now. I want a classic lapel look. I was thinking go up a quarter inch to 3". Maybe 3.25? Or that that look too wide on my slimmer build?