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Help! My Jantzen is broken....

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by chorse123, Mar 10, 2006.

  1. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    My latest Jantzen shirts are doing something funny, and quite troublesome. When I wear them with a tie, there are wrinkles running down and away from the top button. What's wrong with the shirts? Not enough room in the chest? Help!

    I'll post pictures this weekend.
     


  2. trogdor

    trogdor Senior member

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    This is going to sound funny, but did you put on weight?

    I notice that the phenomenon you describe sometimes happens to me when I've been a bit lazy or overindulgent. The first place I notice extra weight is around the chest and armpits, and I've had a similar experience with weird wrinkles emanating from the top button coupled with a tightness around the 'pits.
     


  3. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    No weight gain, so that's not it. These are the changes I made for this order which could have had some effect:

    Take in waist by 2" (30.5" to 28.5")
    Neck height up by 1/8" (1 5/8" to 1 3/4")
    Add 1/4" tie space, from nothing.

    Anyway, this is really bothering me. I thought I was honing in on my perfect fit and this has seriously messed it up.
     


  4. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

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    If the wrinkles end at the bottom of your armhole, it is possibly the shoulder pitch that is to blame. Your shirts have squarer shoulders than yours. Try adjusting the square shoulder/sloping shoulder drop-down menu on the next order.
     


  5. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Here's photographic evidence: [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] Fit in the waist is better than it appears, and these were right out of the package, without being ironed. The length somehow got to be way too long, so I'm going to shorten it by about an inch.
     


  6. moosy

    moosy Senior member

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    it's a beautiful shirt I have to say
     


  7. operationexpat

    operationexpat Well-Known Member

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    Is it just me, or is the seam on top of your shoulder not, uh, on top of your shoulder?

    That looks off to me, but what do I know? I'm just a girl [​IMG]

    Sara
     


  8. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

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    Yes - great fabric, and the shirt is quite passable compared to OTR.

    Imagine inserting shoulder pads inside the shirt and picture what will happen: The shoulders of the shirt will rise, and take out the slack you see on your chest. This is because the shirt is squarer, that is has higher shoulders, than you. So with lower shoulders the yoke sags and leaves wrinkles from the top button ending at your armpits.

    I also agree with o-e. I like to have my shoulder seam on top of my shoulder - this is one of my pet peeves with OTR shirts. The shoulders could IMO be made shorter.

    Select slope shoulders (or whatever it says on the page) and take in the shoulders at least an inch. That should tidy the shirt up a bit.
     


  9. Walter

    Walter Senior member

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    I had the same problem with my first Jantzen. I changed the measurements in the chest area to give it more room and the second one looks a lot better.
     


  10. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Thanks for the advice. I'll try putting in some makeshift shoulder pads to see if it evens out the wrinkles and will shoot some more pics. I guess I have a few months to solve the problem, now that orders are on hold.

    The fabric, by the way is jkt0017: http://www.jantzentailor.com/jkt0017.htm.
     


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