Ok, so here's my problem. Every shirt that I buy off the rack I have to have tailored (I have a 12-14 drop) and I always ask for the same thing - sides taken in, darts in the back, no extra room on the sides. I ask for the last because I tuck my shirts in and don't like extra materials on the sides. Here's what's happened with the last three tailors: 1) There is still excess material on the sides 2) The darts are too close to the center, thus making it too tight around my upper back 3) They lop off TOO much material and I can't even button the bottom buttons With my last three casual jackets its been the same deal - I like to not be able to close my fingers on my palm and feel jacket. About wrist length is what I shoot for. They pin the sleeves, I clap my hand closed, and then I get the jacket back and I can grip the fucking sleeve in my hand. This is 3 tailors now - respected ones, supposedly, that got referred to me by the high end menswear shops in the area. So, I've come to the conclusion that although all these people are incompetent, I am not quite expressing what I need correctly. Before I venture out to have another one of my shirts ruined I could use a few pointers on how to get what I want.