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Help me with my "tailor speak"

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Rambo, Jul 4, 2011.

  1. Rambo

    Rambo Senior member

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    Ok, so here's my problem. Every shirt that I buy off the rack I have to have tailored (I have a 12-14 drop) and I always ask for the same thing - sides taken in, darts in the back, no extra room on the sides. I ask for the last because I tuck my shirts in and don't like extra materials on the sides. Here's what's happened with the last three tailors:

    1) There is still excess material on the sides
    2) The darts are too close to the center, thus making it too tight around my upper back
    3) They lop off TOO much material and I can't even button the bottom buttons

    With my last three casual jackets its been the same deal - I like to not be able to close my fingers on my palm and feel jacket. About wrist length is what I shoot for. They pin the sleeves, I clap my hand closed, and then I get the jacket back and I can grip the fucking sleeve in my hand.

    This is 3 tailors now - respected ones, supposedly, that got referred to me by the high end menswear shops in the area. So, I've come to the conclusion that although all these people are incompetent, I am not quite expressing what I need correctly. Before I venture out to have another one of my shirts ruined I could use a few pointers on how to get what I want.
     


  2. Blackhood

    Blackhood Senior member

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    1. Ask for French Seams on the shirt. This means taking in the excess cloth from the side seams. Ask them to taper the base outward from aprox 10" from the bottom hem. The flair will negate the tightness across the bottom button.

    2. Remember that darts add shape, not remove cloth (they do, but only as a by-product). Use them only to remove fullness in the lower back.

    3. Remember that only so much material can be taken out before you're essentially re-making the shirt. I'd say that 2" out of a sleeve, and 4" from the body is a good amount. More than that and you'll be looking at some very strange shapes.

    Also WTF 14" drop? Like 44" Chest and 30" waist?!
     


  3. robin

    robin Senior member

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    With a 12-14 drop it sounds like you have a horrible body to fit.

    Do the tailors mark or pin the shirts while you try them on? It might alleviate confusion.
     


  4. Rambo

    Rambo Senior member

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    I understand the function of the darts and use them to keep my tucked in shirt from looking like a giant rippling wave.

    When I buy shirts off the rack I have to get the large sizes to fit my upper body but they leave me looking like a flying squirrel. I don't do this with dress shirts, only shirts that have cool colors or patterns. The sorta shit you'd find in the Gap or JCrew. I can't get shirts like that made so I try and make do.

    And, yes, that's right. The numbers are higher on both ends though. Its only about a 12 at the moment.
     


  5. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Shit dude, drop 12! Why not go MTM?
     


  6. Rambo

    Rambo Senior member

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    With a 12-14 drop it sounds like you have a horrible body to fit. Do the tailors mark or pin the shirts while you try them on? It might alleviate confusion.
    Yeah, I'm a mutant. I'm not even that muscular. I just have a big chest and shoulers. The tailors pin the shirts in the sides and sleeves. That's part of what I don't get. I watched the last woman pin the sleeves on the jacket that I brought in (a casual cotton J Crew jacket) to the point where I wanted it. I even had her readujst it when I felt it was too long. Then, when I got the jacket back, it was too long.
    Shit dude, drop 12! Why not go MTM?
    Well, when I finally settle on a size, I'm going to. In the mean time, I don't know of a MTM outfit that makes the colorful type casual shirts that I like to wear. Shit like these: http://www.gap.com/browse/product.do...d=2&pid=814594 http://www.gap.com/browse/product.do...d=2&pid=831653 http://www.jcrew.com/mens_feature/catalogjcrewcomexclusives/shirts/PRDOVR~41514/99102400121/ENE~1+2+3+22+4294967294+20~~~20+16~15~~~~~~~/41514.jsp http://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/shirts/washedfavoriteshirts/PRDOVR~35764/35764.jsp
     


  7. Blackhood

    Blackhood Senior member

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    I've just checked out modern tailor and they have 200+ examples of those bold checks. Admittedly you wont get details like the flap chest pocket, but it might save you a few bucks in tailoring fees!

    Design Your Shirt --> Select Patterns "Checks" ---> ???? --> Profit!!!!
     


  8. TonyThe Tailor

    TonyThe Tailor Senior member

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    Well, when I finally settle on a size, I'm going to. In the mean time, I don't know of a MTM outfit that makes the colorful type casual shirts that I like to wear. Shit like these:

    http://www.gap.com/browse/product.do...d=2&pid=814594

    http://www.gap.com/browse/product.do...d=2&pid=831653

    http://www.jcrew.com/mens_feature/catalogjcrewcomexclusives/shirts/PRDOVR~41514/99102400121/ENE~1+2+3+22+4294967294+20~~~20+16~15~~~~~~~/41514.jsp

    http://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/shirts/washedfavoriteshirts/PRDOVR~35764/35764.jsp[/quote]

    Almost all should have these types of patterns in their fabric lines. Unless you go MTM, you will never have a proper fit.
     


  9. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you are asking the impossible.

    you dont want any extra fabric on the side????

    how do you expect to sit down.

    only buy shirts with stretch!
     


  10. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    1. Ask for French Seams on the shirt. This means taking in the excess cloth from the side seams.
    The seams should really be flat-felled rather than French seams.
     


  11. pvrhye

    pvrhye Senior member

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    Guys with your build usually wear more leather and steel. [​IMG]
     


  12. Achillus

    Achillus Senior member

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    It's hard for giving a advice without an clear picture.
     


  13. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    14 drop....holy shit
     


  14. landshark

    landshark Senior member

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    I have found that "tailors" aren't always the best to go to for alterations. Try finding someone who does alterations exclusively.
     


  15. M. Bardamu

    M. Bardamu Senior member

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    14 drop....holy shit

    That's Kunk territory...
     


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