help me with my shoe plan. 5-6k to spend.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by GQgeek, Mar 11, 2006.

  1. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

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    I don't want to dilute the shoe-porn thread so I'm bringing my request for advice here. I find that my shoes no longer match my wardrobe and they are in serious need of an upgrade.

    I'm planning my shoe purchases over the next few months and am looking to get a good rotation of very attractive shoes going! Unfortunately, I can't spend more than 5-6k cdn over that time-frame because I'm working on other parts of the wardrobe at the same time.

    Of my current shoes, the only two that I really like are my black Canali monkstraps, and the sand pebblegrain Certo monkstraps (both with chiselled toes). So that's what I'm starting from (I'm discounting the others).

    Obviously, I like sleek shoes with a chiselled toe. It's worth mentioning that I can't stand flat finishes. After seeing EGs and a pair of wholecut Mantellasis in antique cognac in person, I never want to see another plain looking shoe in my life. It's also worth noting that I don't need shoes for business, these are purely for my own enjoyment, so please don't suggest business staples like black cap-toe oxfords because I don't need them. I'm also not really in to boots. And keep in mind that I'm 26 if you make suggestions!

    So, how can I best spend 5-6k on shoes?

    As I've already brought-up elsewhere, there's an EG trunk show coming-up in April. I intend to purchase my first 2 pairs during that trunk show. I wish I could spend more of the total 5-6k next month, but I have about 10 garments being made that need to be paid for between now and then.

    The shoes I know I want are:
    #1: EG Ladbroke on 888 last in antiqued chestnut or burnt pine
    #2: Possibly an EG 3 Eyelet based on Newbury special order, undecided on last and color
    #3: Vass London 3 Eyelet on U Last, undecided on color although I like the color of the one shown on their website. (can I mail-order it from somewhere? how would I size it? and how much can I expect to pay?)
    #4: Would like something with a norwegian construction, although I don't have any particular shoe in mind. There was a stunning light beige Brioni (made by branchini) on ebay a few months ago but i didn't have the cash at the time [​IMG]
    #5: Also considering the Berluti Alessandro, but have read Berluti aren't of welted construction so that's a bit of a turn-off. Is this true? This could be my first wholecut instead of #2.
    #6: I really like the EG Inverness in burgundy but am wondering about it's versatility in my current wardrobe.

    I'm going for quality over quantity but I do need to have enough shoes to complete a varied wardrobe.

    Concerning #2, I was thinking a CJ Weymouth might be a good substitute, but in the catalogue it seems that the only options are black and dark brown antique. Is the weymouth really only available in those two colors? I prefer lighter colored shoes, especially for wholecuts.

    Also, if I were to get a 3 Eyelet "Newbury" with no medallion, which last and in which finish do you think it would look best on? I'm thinking something really light like a tan/beige or antiqued cognac (which i don't see on the Sky Valet site). I also feel like the 82 last might be a better choice than the 888 for such a shoe. Any opinions on this? And are there any other wholecuts I should take a look at besides the EG and Berluti Allessandro?

    Please make suggestions!
     


  2. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    Of course, bespoke is also an option at that range.
     


  3. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    It might be worth it to wait a few weeks for reviews of Seok's custom program, Schubert Shoes. If they are up to snuff, you can specify to your heart's content for <$300. Just no wholecuts.

    Tom
     


  4. Verb

    Verb Active Member

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    Since you seem like the type to be on the lookout for some shoes that will draw catcalls on the streets from the ladies, I might recommend this pair of NDC's that I've had my eye on forever. I just hope they don't sell out by the time I work up the cash to make the purchase.

    [​IMG]
     


  5. sysdoc

    sysdoc Senior member

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    I think you should have a good look at C&J Handgrades. They might not be finished the same way as EGs are, but they are certainly not 'flatly finished' either. I'd recommend the C&J HG Cleveland, which is a very sleek shoe on the 350 last. [​IMG] If you don't require the toe medallion on your future whole cut, you might want to consider the C&J HG Hanover, which comes in light tan. [​IMG] It's made on the 337 last, just like the Weymouth. There are several pretty C&Js that are made on the very chiseled and very sleek 348 last, which is the closest thing to Vass' U-last that I have seen. These C&J benchgrades are most definitely good shoes at a very attractive price point. EG's Ladbroke and Inverness are really brilliant shoes and in fact the exact two shoe models that I wear most. I agree that EG's 82 last is a very good choice. For some reason it doesn't seem to be as popular here in the forum. You should have seen an EG wholecut on the 82 last 'in the flesh' before you make your mind up. I really like this combination, but I have yet to buy one. I've got plenty of other EGs on the 82 last and I really love them.
     


  6. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    fly to budapest, get 10 pair of vass bespoke to your specifications. have a bath a some gulash.
     


  7. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I too am planning on my next major shoe purchase - probably by the end of the year. The thing I've noticed is that the chiseled toe is done really well by Tony Gaziano. After seeing the shoe porn website pics, I want nothing else.

    http://homepage.mac.com/syrit/PhotoAlbum7.html

    I've seen the 888. The toe shape is close but no cigar. Correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is that you can't get that kind of chiseled toe without going bespoke. Personally I want the derbys shown in pics 134 and 135.

    Just need to save up that $4k or so. [​IMG]
     


  8. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

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    I've seen the 888. The toe shape is close but no cigar. Correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is that you can't get that kind of chiseled toe without going bespoke. Personally I want the derbys shown in pics 134 and 135.
    The Vass U-Last is very nice though not exactly like the ones in 134 and 135

    Just need to save up that $4k or so. [​IMG]
    Tony's shoes are priced more reasonably at $2,500 give or take a couple of hundred.
     


  9. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

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    fly to budapest, get 10 pair of vass bespoke to your specifications. have a bath a some gulash.

    Seconded
     


  10. Roger

    Roger Senior member

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    I think you should have a good look at C&J Handgrades. They might not be finished the same way as EGs are, but they are certainly not 'flatly finished' either.
    Sysdoc, the one thing that has kept me from buying a pair or Weymouths is that the soles seem to extend too far out. I have a pair of EG Newburys now, and they seem trimmer. Is this your impression too? I know you like close-cut soles, as I do. Am I right about the Weymouths, or are they trimmer in the flesh?

    Also, how does the C&J Handgrade leather compare with the EG? In what ways would you find a Handgrade inferior to the corresponding (in style) EG shoe?
     


  11. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Tony's shoes are priced more reasonably at $2,500 give or take a couple of hundred.[/quote]

    In that case, it is a steal! [​IMG]
     


  12. SGladwell

    SGladwell Senior member

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    fly to budapest, get 10 pair of vass bespoke to your specifications. have a bath a some gulash.

    Complete agreement, though I'd go through some of Budapest's other culinary specialties and enjoy far too many 50 (US) cent pints of Gosser, too.
     


  13. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    Complete agreement, though I'd go through some of Budapest's other culinary specialties and enjoy far too many 50 (US) cent pints of Gosser, too.


    SG - looks like once we clean out 6 months of recorded history we find some things that we agree on.
     


  14. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

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    Sysdoc,I hadn't seen the Hanover before as it's not in the current catalogues. Is it still available? I'm also wondering if you have any pictures of shoes in the light tan to which you refer. Your pictures a lot better than the ones in the catalogue (and i'm going to be ordering from plal so i won't see them in person before I buy). Lastly, in what finish was the Hanover in your picture done, dark brown antique? Again, it looks a lot better than the catalogue scans (completely different, actually).

    Anyway, the Hanovers were a great suggestion and I think they'll satisfy my wholecut needs (for the time-being), which will allow me to get the EG Ladbroke & the Inverness instead of the Newbury.

    GT, regarding Vass... I had that exact same thought about a month ago, and I actually asked the following question on the AAAC forum, but never got a reply. Is their bespoke really only 700 euros if you fly to Budapest for them? How much is a RTW shoe there? I've also read somewhere that it's not true bespoke, but a MTM program. Either way, it's definitely something I'm considering for the future. I've thought about it though and I really want my Ladbrokes first, not to mention that the need for two trips to budapest adds considerably to the price of the shoes.

    Regarding the Tony Gaziano suggestions... I will definitely be placing an order with him in the future, but right now I need to build-up a decent rotation and I can't do that at $2500 per pair ;p

    So far my selection of definites, which has me up to ~3.5k, is looking as follows:
    1)EG Ladbroke on 888 in chestnut or burnt pine
    2)EG Inverness on 888 in burgundy
    3)C&J Hanover on 337 in tan antique or dark brown antique
    4)C&J Saville on 337 in dark brown antique

    Maybes:
    -Vass London 3 Eyelet U Last in dark brown or oxblood (will definitely get, but might skip for now and buy in europe next year)
    -Berluti Allessandro
    -Santoni Handmade 6239
    -Santoni Handmade Rubino
    -Santoni Handmade Marro (I really like the burnished toe)
    -Still looking for a sleek norwegian i really like.

    And I second Roger's question, how does C&J handgrade leather compare to EG leather?

    Thanks for all the help guys.
     


  15. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

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    Fly to Atlanta, buy Grensons at Bennie's.
     


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