1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

help me with my shoe plan. 5-6k to spend.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by GQgeek, Mar 11, 2006.

  1. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

    Messages:
    17,933
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2002
    Location:
    Canuckistan
    I don't want to dilute the shoe-porn thread so I'm bringing my request for advice here. I find that my shoes no longer match my wardrobe and they are in serious need of an upgrade.

    I'm planning my shoe purchases over the next few months and am looking to get a good rotation of very attractive shoes going! Unfortunately, I can't spend more than 5-6k cdn over that time-frame because I'm working on other parts of the wardrobe at the same time.

    Of my current shoes, the only two that I really like are my black Canali monkstraps, and the sand pebblegrain Certo monkstraps (both with chiselled toes). So that's what I'm starting from (I'm discounting the others).

    Obviously, I like sleek shoes with a chiselled toe. It's worth mentioning that I can't stand flat finishes. After seeing EGs and a pair of wholecut Mantellasis in antique cognac in person, I never want to see another plain looking shoe in my life. It's also worth noting that I don't need shoes for business, these are purely for my own enjoyment, so please don't suggest business staples like black cap-toe oxfords because I don't need them. I'm also not really in to boots. And keep in mind that I'm 26 if you make suggestions!

    So, how can I best spend 5-6k on shoes?

    As I've already brought-up elsewhere, there's an EG trunk show coming-up in April. I intend to purchase my first 2 pairs during that trunk show. I wish I could spend more of the total 5-6k next month, but I have about 10 garments being made that need to be paid for between now and then.

    The shoes I know I want are:
    #1: EG Ladbroke on 888 last in antiqued chestnut or burnt pine
    #2: Possibly an EG 3 Eyelet based on Newbury special order, undecided on last and color
    #3: Vass London 3 Eyelet on U Last, undecided on color although I like the color of the one shown on their website. (can I mail-order it from somewhere? how would I size it? and how much can I expect to pay?)
    #4: Would like something with a norwegian construction, although I don't have any particular shoe in mind. There was a stunning light beige Brioni (made by branchini) on ebay a few months ago but i didn't have the cash at the time [​IMG]
    #5: Also considering the Berluti Alessandro, but have read Berluti aren't of welted construction so that's a bit of a turn-off. Is this true? This could be my first wholecut instead of #2.
    #6: I really like the EG Inverness in burgundy but am wondering about it's versatility in my current wardrobe.

    I'm going for quality over quantity but I do need to have enough shoes to complete a varied wardrobe.

    Concerning #2, I was thinking a CJ Weymouth might be a good substitute, but in the catalogue it seems that the only options are black and dark brown antique. Is the weymouth really only available in those two colors? I prefer lighter colored shoes, especially for wholecuts.

    Also, if I were to get a 3 Eyelet "Newbury" with no medallion, which last and in which finish do you think it would look best on? I'm thinking something really light like a tan/beige or antiqued cognac (which i don't see on the Sky Valet site). I also feel like the 82 last might be a better choice than the 888 for such a shoe. Any opinions on this? And are there any other wholecuts I should take a look at besides the EG and Berluti Allessandro?

    Please make suggestions!
     
  2. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    Of course, bespoke is also an option at that range.
     
  3. tiger02

    tiger02 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,799
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2004
    Location:
    NYC
    It might be worth it to wait a few weeks for reviews of Seok's custom program, Schubert Shoes. If they are up to snuff, you can specify to your heart's content for <$300. Just no wholecuts.

    Tom
     
  4. Verb

    Verb Active Member

    Messages:
    30
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Since you seem like the type to be on the lookout for some shoes that will draw catcalls on the streets from the ladies, I might recommend this pair of NDC's that I've had my eye on forever. I just hope they don't sell out by the time I work up the cash to make the purchase.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. sysdoc

    sysdoc Senior member

    Messages:
    283
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    Mostly Northern Hemisphere
    I think you should have a good look at C&J Handgrades. They might not be finished the same way as EGs are, but they are certainly not 'flatly finished' either. I'd recommend the C&J HG Cleveland, which is a very sleek shoe on the 350 last. [​IMG] If you don't require the toe medallion on your future whole cut, you might want to consider the C&J HG Hanover, which comes in light tan. [​IMG] It's made on the 337 last, just like the Weymouth. There are several pretty C&Js that are made on the very chiseled and very sleek 348 last, which is the closest thing to Vass' U-last that I have seen. These C&J benchgrades are most definitely good shoes at a very attractive price point. EG's Ladbroke and Inverness are really brilliant shoes and in fact the exact two shoe models that I wear most. I agree that EG's 82 last is a very good choice. For some reason it doesn't seem to be as popular here in the forum. You should have seen an EG wholecut on the 82 last 'in the flesh' before you make your mind up. I really like this combination, but I have yet to buy one. I've got plenty of other EGs on the 82 last and I really love them.
     
  6. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

    Messages:
    20,605
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    greater chicago
    fly to budapest, get 10 pair of vass bespoke to your specifications. have a bath a some gulash.
     
  7. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,057
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    I too am planning on my next major shoe purchase - probably by the end of the year. The thing I've noticed is that the chiseled toe is done really well by Tony Gaziano. After seeing the shoe porn website pics, I want nothing else.

    http://homepage.mac.com/syrit/PhotoAlbum7.html

    I've seen the 888. The toe shape is close but no cigar. Correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is that you can't get that kind of chiseled toe without going bespoke. Personally I want the derbys shown in pics 134 and 135.

    Just need to save up that $4k or so. [​IMG]
     
  8. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

    Messages:
    566
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2003
    Location:
    NJ, USA
    I've seen the 888. The toe shape is close but no cigar. Correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is that you can't get that kind of chiseled toe without going bespoke. Personally I want the derbys shown in pics 134 and 135.
    The Vass U-Last is very nice though not exactly like the ones in 134 and 135

    Just need to save up that $4k or so. [​IMG]
    Tony's shoes are priced more reasonably at $2,500 give or take a couple of hundred.
     
  9. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

    Messages:
    25,818
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2004
    fly to budapest, get 10 pair of vass bespoke to your specifications. have a bath a some gulash.

    Seconded
     
  10. Roger

    Roger Senior member

    Messages:
    1,936
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2005
    Location:
    Vancouver
    I think you should have a good look at C&J Handgrades. They might not be finished the same way as EGs are, but they are certainly not 'flatly finished' either.
    Sysdoc, the one thing that has kept me from buying a pair or Weymouths is that the soles seem to extend too far out. I have a pair of EG Newburys now, and they seem trimmer. Is this your impression too? I know you like close-cut soles, as I do. Am I right about the Weymouths, or are they trimmer in the flesh?

    Also, how does the C&J Handgrade leather compare with the EG? In what ways would you find a Handgrade inferior to the corresponding (in style) EG shoe?
     
  11. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,057
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    Tony's shoes are priced more reasonably at $2,500 give or take a couple of hundred.[/quote]

    In that case, it is a steal! [​IMG]
     
  12. SGladwell

    SGladwell Senior member

    Messages:
    1,257
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2006
    fly to budapest, get 10 pair of vass bespoke to your specifications. have a bath a some gulash.

    Complete agreement, though I'd go through some of Budapest's other culinary specialties and enjoy far too many 50 (US) cent pints of Gosser, too.
     
  13. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

    Messages:
    20,605
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    greater chicago
    Complete agreement, though I'd go through some of Budapest's other culinary specialties and enjoy far too many 50 (US) cent pints of Gosser, too.


    SG - looks like once we clean out 6 months of recorded history we find some things that we agree on.
     
  14. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

    Messages:
    17,933
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2002
    Location:
    Canuckistan
    Sysdoc,I hadn't seen the Hanover before as it's not in the current catalogues. Is it still available? I'm also wondering if you have any pictures of shoes in the light tan to which you refer. Your pictures a lot better than the ones in the catalogue (and i'm going to be ordering from plal so i won't see them in person before I buy). Lastly, in what finish was the Hanover in your picture done, dark brown antique? Again, it looks a lot better than the catalogue scans (completely different, actually).

    Anyway, the Hanovers were a great suggestion and I think they'll satisfy my wholecut needs (for the time-being), which will allow me to get the EG Ladbroke & the Inverness instead of the Newbury.

    GT, regarding Vass... I had that exact same thought about a month ago, and I actually asked the following question on the AAAC forum, but never got a reply. Is their bespoke really only 700 euros if you fly to Budapest for them? How much is a RTW shoe there? I've also read somewhere that it's not true bespoke, but a MTM program. Either way, it's definitely something I'm considering for the future. I've thought about it though and I really want my Ladbrokes first, not to mention that the need for two trips to budapest adds considerably to the price of the shoes.

    Regarding the Tony Gaziano suggestions... I will definitely be placing an order with him in the future, but right now I need to build-up a decent rotation and I can't do that at $2500 per pair ;p

    So far my selection of definites, which has me up to ~3.5k, is looking as follows:
    1)EG Ladbroke on 888 in chestnut or burnt pine
    2)EG Inverness on 888 in burgundy
    3)C&J Hanover on 337 in tan antique or dark brown antique
    4)C&J Saville on 337 in dark brown antique

    Maybes:
    -Vass London 3 Eyelet U Last in dark brown or oxblood (will definitely get, but might skip for now and buy in europe next year)
    -Berluti Allessandro
    -Santoni Handmade 6239
    -Santoni Handmade Rubino
    -Santoni Handmade Marro (I really like the burnished toe)
    -Still looking for a sleek norwegian i really like.

    And I second Roger's question, how does C&J handgrade leather compare to EG leather?

    Thanks for all the help guys.
     
  15. AlanC

    AlanC Senior member

    Messages:
    7,805
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2003
    Location:
    Heart of America
    Fly to Atlanta, buy Grensons at Bennie's.
     
  16. TKDKid

    TKDKid Senior member

    Messages:
    680
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2004
    Location:
    London, UK
    Concerning #2, I was thinking a CJ Weymouth might be a good substitute, but in the catalogue it seems that the only options are black and dark brown antique. Is the weymouth really only available in those two colors? I prefer lighter colored shoes, especially for wholecuts.
    You may find this thread interesting...

    How about a double monkstrap? I like the John Lobb Paris Naseby:

    [​IMG]

    although the Derwent is nice too:

    [​IMG]
     
  17. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

    Messages:
    20,605
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    greater chicago
    Sysdoc,I hadn't seen the Hanover before as it's not in the current catalogues. Is it still available? I'm also wondering if you have any pictures of shoes in the light tan to which you refer. Your pictures a lot better than the ones in the catalogue (and i'm going to be ordering from plal so i won't see them in person before I buy). Lastly, in what finish was the Hanover in your picture done, dark brown antique? Again, it looks a lot better than the catalogue scans (completely different, actually).

    Anyway, the Hanovers were a great suggestion and I think they'll satisfy my wholecut needs (for the time-being), which will allow me to get the EG Ladbroke & the Inverness instead of the Newbury.

    GT, regarding Vass... I had that exact same thought about a month ago, and I actually asked the following question on the AAAC forum, but never got a reply. Is their bespoke really only 700 euros if you fly to Budapest for them? How much is a RTW shoe there? I've also read somewhere that it's not true bespoke, but a MTM program. Either way, it's definitely something I'm considering for the future. I've thought about it though and I really want my Ladbrokes first, not to mention that the need for two trips to budapest adds considerably to the price of the shoes.

    Regarding the Tony Gaziano suggestions... I will definitely be placing an order with him in the future, but right now I need to build-up a decent rotation and I can't do that at $2500 per pair ;p

    So far my selection of definites, which has me up to ~3.5k, is looking as follows:
    1)EG Ladbroke on 888 in chestnut or burnt pine
    2)EG Inverness on 888 in burgundy
    3)C&J Hanover on 337 in tan antique or dark brown antique
    4)C&J Saville on 337 in dark brown antique

    Maybes:
    -Vass London 3 Eyelet U Last in dark brown or oxblood (will definitely get, but might skip for now and buy in europe next year)
    -Berluti Allessandro
    -Santoni Handmade 6239
    -Santoni Handmade Rubino
    -Santoni Handmade Marro (I really like the burnished toe)
    -Still looking for a sleek norwegian i really like.

    And I second Roger's question, how does C&J handgrade leather compare to EG leather?

    Thanks for all the help guys.


    GQ - I bought two pair of cordovan ankle boots for less than $700 a piece. If they had been shoes, in calf, and I had paid cash, they would have been $500 a pair. these are the first shoes I have ever had made, so I really may not be the one to answer the bespoke/made to measure issue - but they took a dozen or so measurments of my foot, and the boots fit better than any other shoes I have ever had. I have to force myself to wear my other (pre-prada church) shoes, which were great up until now, and now seem to fit poorly, even though I bought them all with a great deal of care for the fit. so, whether or not these are "true bespoke" they fit fantstically.

    also, one pair is a medalian "whole cut" (although I am not sure that really applies to an ankle boot) but not really a design that they normally do - I discribed what I wanted, and we discussed it, and they made it for me. I chose the leather and the color - I am not sure what more one could want from a bespoke experience.

    the one problem is picking up the shoes - I had a friend in Budapest pick mine up. you should be able to find a solution - if nothing else get someone from Fedex or a hotel concierge to pick them up, and give him $100.

    I am very very happy with my shoes. I simply can't imagine how they could get better, but I am also not in a position to get some bespoke british shoes - maybe the expereince is substantially better.

    and budapest is a great place to visit - if you go let me know, I can give you some pointers.
     
  18. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

    Messages:
    566
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2003
    Location:
    NJ, USA
    -Still looking for a sleek norwegian i really like.
    Unless you mean the Italian styled Norwegian, consider Edward Green's Dover in the 82 or 888 lasts or its sleeker 3-eyelet cousin. A Dover on the 888 last:

    [​IMG]
     
  19. sysdoc

    sysdoc Senior member

    Messages:
    283
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    Mostly Northern Hemisphere
    Sysdoc,I hadn't seen the Hanover before as it's not in the current catalogues. Is it still available? I'm also wondering if you have any pictures of shoes in the light tan to which you refer. Your pictures a lot better than the ones in the catalogue (and i'm going to be ordering from plal so i won't see them in person before I buy). Lastly, in what finish was the Hanover in your picture done, dark brown antique? Again, it looks a lot better than the catalogue scans (completely different, actually).
    GQgeek, The Hanover is a special order C&J shoe from the Handgrade line. I bought it from the Gordon Scott store in New Bond St./London. I am not quite sure how you have to go about getting them in places that don't already stock them. The color of my Hanover is "Antique Tan", color code "1TB", Model No. 9445. Here's a comparison shot with my EG Ladbroke in Burnt Pine: [​IMG] You can see that the Hanover is lighter than the Ladbroke. C&J's "Antique Tan" is about as light as EG's "Edwardian".
    I'm pleased to hear that.
    May I suggest you go for a Vass U-last Monk Strap instead of the C&J Savile? It's a gorgeous shoe and rather unique. It would also make a great alternative to the Vass U-last 3-eyelet Derby. [​IMG]
    I am baffled by the C&J HG leather every time I polish one of my C&J shoes. I have definitely not ever polished any other leather that would be as soft and as easy to polish. However, the surface of the HG leather is different to the somewhat waxy appearance of EG's leather. Lobb's leather is once more a completely different animal. I like each of the three and I know that each has its unique look and feel. I'd suggest you make your own picture. I don't see any reason at all why I should consider C&J's HG leather inferior to EG's or JL's. IMO the only real disadvantage of C&J's HG shoes is the tiny selection of different leather colors.
     
  20. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

    Messages:
    8,602
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2004
    Fly to Atlanta, buy Grensons at Bennie's.

    Have they got any left? I didn't see any references to them in a cursory examination of their website. However, I sensed a certain facetiousness in your suggestion, Alan.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by