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Help Me With My New Chan

Mr. Pink

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My first Chan arrived recently. It's a navy VBC 120. I asked for minimal shoulder padding, slightly high button stance, moderate waist suppression and full trousers. Here's the results. To my eye, the sleeves need to be shortened 1/4 inch and the trousers 3/4 to one inch. The body needs to fit more closely and the perhaps the vents should be shorter by an inch or two. Other suggestions? What should I change before my next order?




 

johnapril

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Damn, man, that's about perfect.
 

Mr. Pink

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The front of the trousers and the back of the jacket.

 

lawyerdad

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Very nice. I agree re shortening the trousers. Also the sleeves. But it looks like your right shoulder drops a bit, which makes the right sleeve look a bit longer than the left. They might want to take that into account. I actually think the fit through the torso looks very good, and the moderate waist suppression works well. If you want it more fitted because of aesthetic preference, obviously go with what you like. But you certainly don't "need" to do so - it looks very good as is.
Back/shoulders fit looks great.
 

Mr. Pink

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Originally Posted by lawyerdad
Very nice. I agree re shortening the trousers. Also the sleeves. But it looks like your right shoulder drops a bit, which makes the right sleeve look a bit longer than the left. They might want to take that into account. I actually think the fit through the torso looks very good, and the moderate waist suppression works well. If you want it more fitted because of aesthetic preference, obviously go with what you like. But you certainly don't "need" to do so - it looks very good as is.
Back/shoulders fit looks great.


My right shoulder is quite a bit lower. Actually, my right leg is short from an accident and so my right shoulder drops. My right arm is also nearly an inch longer than my left. They took this into account well on the suit and the sleeve lengths are equal. But on the shirt (also by Chan) the left arm is quite long.
 

lawyerdad

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I was mostly going by the first photo, where it looks like the right sleeve falls almost to the base of your thumb and the left appears to fall closer to the wristbone. Looking at it again after reading your post and comparing it with the second photo, it appears in the first photo that the difference probably had to do with holding your arms at slightly different angles. In the second photo, they do appear to be the same length (I still agree that they could stand being shortened 1/4" or so.)
 

JLibourel

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The only thing I saw that appeared to demand correction was the trouser length. However--and I could be mistaken in this--it appears to me that, in the contemporary fashion, you are wearing your trousers a somewhat below your actual waist level. If so, this would be the cause of the problem.
 

Mr. Pink

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Originally Posted by JLibourel
The only thing I saw that appeared to demand correction was the trouser length. However--and I could be mistaken in this--it appears to me that, in the contemporary fashion, you are wearing your trousers a somewhat below your actual waist level. If so, this would be the cause of the problem.

They are below my waist. (I can't get pants to stay up at my true waist.) Because of that I had Patrick cut them for that point just above my hips. He did a very nice job on this with the fork high so that the crotch does not hang below where it should. I think we just miscommunicated. I told him I liked to wear my pants long and didn't give him enough information as to what I meant by that.

Does anyone have experience ordering from Chan high-waisted trousers suitable only for suspenders? I'm thinking about it for my next suit.
 

Vintage Gent

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Originally Posted by reubencahn
Does anyone have experience ordering from Chan high-waisted trousers suitable only for suspenders? I'm thinking about it for my next suit.

Each of my four Chan suits has high-waisted trousers secured with suspenders. I could scarcely conceive of doing otherwise.
 

norcaltransplant

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For posters who were inquiring about balance, I think Mr. Cahn did a pretty nice job of achieving a great balance on a relatively, for suiting and SF standards, affordable MTM garment. He doesn't look to be an incredibly difficult fit, but the tailoring looks near perfect. I guarantee it!

Bravo.
 

Dragon

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I think the jacket looks very good.

Like you pointed out, I would get the sleeves and pants shortened a bit. For the next order, I would get the silouette of the arms trimmed up a bit as well as the pants.

I think the body area looks very good, and does not need fixing.
 

mrchapel

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Only gripe I have is the trousers have too much of a break for me. I prefer a very tapered trouser fit in the legs with not much of a break at all. But that's my personal preference.
 

Charley

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Originally Posted by norcaltransplant
For posters who were inquiring about balance, I think Mr. Cahn did a pretty nice job of achieving a great balance on a relatively, for suiting and SF standards, affordable MTM garment. He doesn't look to be an incredibly difficult fit, but the tailoring looks near perfect. I guarantee it!

Bravo.


The man has written that his legs are different lengths, his shoulders are uneven, and one arm is longer than the other. There is no possible way that the man could get an OTR suit to come anywhere close. this one really does look to be a pretty nice job by a tailor who was able to make the adjustments. Adjust the trouser hem and the jacket sleeves a bit to have a great fitting suit. Congrats on benefiting from Style Forum.
 

Cantabrigian

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Really a stylistic thing but have you considered going for slightly wider lapels?

I think the pants are a bit too full in the seat and you could probably make the pants a bit wider at the waist and wear them closer to your natural waist.

I really like the jacket - I think the vent height is fine.
 

knittieguy

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pants a bit long, but otherwise the suit looks great. Hairstyle is a bit odd, however
 

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