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Help Me With My New Chan

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Pink, Oct 18, 2006.

  1. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    My first Chan arrived recently. It's a navy VBC 120. I asked for minimal shoulder padding, slightly high button stance, moderate waist suppression and full trousers. Here's the results. To my eye, the sleeves need to be shortened 1/4 inch and the trousers 3/4 to one inch. The body needs to fit more closely and the perhaps the vents should be shorter by an inch or two. Other suggestions? What should I change before my next order?
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  2. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    Damn, man, that's about perfect.
     
  3. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    The front of the trousers and the back of the jacket.
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  4. lawyerdad

    lawyerdad Senior member

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    Very nice. I agree re shortening the trousers. Also the sleeves. But it looks like your right shoulder drops a bit, which makes the right sleeve look a bit longer than the left. They might want to take that into account. I actually think the fit through the torso looks very good, and the moderate waist suppression works well. If you want it more fitted because of aesthetic preference, obviously go with what you like. But you certainly don't "need" to do so - it looks very good as is.
    Back/shoulders fit looks great.
     
  5. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    Very nice. I agree re shortening the trousers. Also the sleeves. But it looks like your right shoulder drops a bit, which makes the right sleeve look a bit longer than the left. They might want to take that into account. I actually think the fit through the torso looks very good, and the moderate waist suppression works well. If you want it more fitted because of aesthetic preference, obviously go with what you like. But you certainly don't "need" to do so - it looks very good as is.
    Back/shoulders fit looks great.


    My right shoulder is quite a bit lower. Actually, my right leg is short from an accident and so my right shoulder drops. My right arm is also nearly an inch longer than my left. They took this into account well on the suit and the sleeve lengths are equal. But on the shirt (also by Chan) the left arm is quite long.
     
  6. lawyerdad

    lawyerdad Senior member

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    I was mostly going by the first photo, where it looks like the right sleeve falls almost to the base of your thumb and the left appears to fall closer to the wristbone. Looking at it again after reading your post and comparing it with the second photo, it appears in the first photo that the difference probably had to do with holding your arms at slightly different angles. In the second photo, they do appear to be the same length (I still agree that they could stand being shortened 1/4" or so.)
     
  7. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    The only thing I saw that appeared to demand correction was the trouser length. However--and I could be mistaken in this--it appears to me that, in the contemporary fashion, you are wearing your trousers a somewhat below your actual waist level. If so, this would be the cause of the problem.
     
  8. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    The only thing I saw that appeared to demand correction was the trouser length. However--and I could be mistaken in this--it appears to me that, in the contemporary fashion, you are wearing your trousers a somewhat below your actual waist level. If so, this would be the cause of the problem.

    They are below my waist. (I can't get pants to stay up at my true waist.) Because of that I had Patrick cut them for that point just above my hips. He did a very nice job on this with the fork high so that the crotch does not hang below where it should. I think we just miscommunicated. I told him I liked to wear my pants long and didn't give him enough information as to what I meant by that.

    Does anyone have experience ordering from Chan high-waisted trousers suitable only for suspenders? I'm thinking about it for my next suit.
     
  9. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    Does anyone have experience ordering from Chan high-waisted trousers suitable only for suspenders? I'm thinking about it for my next suit.

    Each of my four Chan suits has high-waisted trousers secured with suspenders. I could scarcely conceive of doing otherwise.
     
  10. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Senior member

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    For posters who were inquiring about balance, I think Mr. Cahn did a pretty nice job of achieving a great balance on a relatively, for suiting and SF standards, affordable MTM garment. He doesn't look to be an incredibly difficult fit, but the tailoring looks near perfect. I guarantee it!

    Bravo.
     
  11. Dragon

    Dragon Senior member

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    I think the jacket looks very good.

    Like you pointed out, I would get the sleeves and pants shortened a bit. For the next order, I would get the silouette of the arms trimmed up a bit as well as the pants.

    I think the body area looks very good, and does not need fixing.
     
  12. mrchapel

    mrchapel Senior member

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    Only gripe I have is the trousers have too much of a break for me. I prefer a very tapered trouser fit in the legs with not much of a break at all. But that's my personal preference.
     
  13. Charley

    Charley Senior member

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    For posters who were inquiring about balance, I think Mr. Cahn did a pretty nice job of achieving a great balance on a relatively, for suiting and SF standards, affordable MTM garment. He doesn't look to be an incredibly difficult fit, but the tailoring looks near perfect. I guarantee it!

    Bravo.


    The man has written that his legs are different lengths, his shoulders are uneven, and one arm is longer than the other. There is no possible way that the man could get an OTR suit to come anywhere close. this one really does look to be a pretty nice job by a tailor who was able to make the adjustments. Adjust the trouser hem and the jacket sleeves a bit to have a great fitting suit. Congrats on benefiting from Style Forum.
     
  14. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Really a stylistic thing but have you considered going for slightly wider lapels?

    I think the pants are a bit too full in the seat and you could probably make the pants a bit wider at the waist and wear them closer to your natural waist.

    I really like the jacket - I think the vent height is fine.
     
  15. knittieguy

    knittieguy Senior member

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    pants a bit long, but otherwise the suit looks great. Hairstyle is a bit odd, however
     
  16. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    The man has written that his legs are different lengths, his shoulders are uneven, and one arm is longer than the other. There is no possible way that the man could get an OTR suit to come anywhere close. this one really does look to be a pretty nice job by a tailor who was able to make the adjustments. Adjust the trouser hem and the jacket sleeves a bit to have a great fitting suit. Congrats on benefiting from Style Forum.

    I am a more difficult fit than it looks. In addition to the leg and arm length issues, the shorter leg curves badly from knee to ankle. The left side of my collarbone (broken in the same accident) also did not set well and juts out. I have a nine inch drop from chest to pants and fairly large thighs, shoulders and back. All this makes for difficult fitting. I have OTR suits that fit well, but always after extensive alteration and always requiring multiple trips for additional adjustments. I think Chan did an amazing job for a single fitting. I have no doubt that had I been in HK and able to go for the normal 3 fittings, the suit would have been near perfect.

    Really a stylistic thing but have you considered going for slightly wider lapels?

    I think the pants are a bit too full in the seat and you could probably make the pants a bit wider at the waist and wear them closer to your natural waist.

    I really like the jacket - I think the vent height is fine.


    Why the wider lapels?

    On the pants, I think for the next suit, I'm going to take a chance and order them high waisted with forward pleats suitable only for braces. I've always been too self-concious for suspenders but I think I should take a chance.

    Other than that I appreciate all the feed back. I am definitely going to have Chan shorten the pants and arms and slim the jacket and sleeves. I think for the next suit I'll go for a 3 roll to 2 1/2 perhaps with a ticket pocket.
     
  17. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    pants a bit long, but otherwise the suit looks great. Hairstyle is a bit odd, however

    Would that I still had hair to style.
     
  18. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It looks to me that the seat of your pants is wrong. I usually say that it is cranking up my ass, but that is likely not the correct technical term. It really should be corrected.

    Stylistically, I think that the pants are too baggy and I do agree that the lapels should be wider. They just don't relate to the fullness of the rest of the suit. These two issues are just personal though.
     
  19. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Personally, I like it when lapels extend halfway towards the shoulder - seems like these are on just the other side of that imaginary line on your coat.

    I would also recommend not getting only high-backed trousers on your next suit. If it turns out that you don't like them (or don't always want to wear braces with that suit) there won't be much you can do.

    Try getting once pair of brace-ready pants and one regular pair.
     
  20. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    I usually say that it is cranking up my ass, but that is likely not the correct technical term. It really should be corrected.

    I'm reminded of Marisa Tomei in My Cousing Vinny describing "balls on accurate" as an industry term. One of my favorite movies. I'll have Patrick look at the seat. I think it actually needs to come in. I think the legs of the pants are okay on width but are made to look more sloppy by the excessive length and break.


    Personally, I like it when lapels extend halfway towards the shoulder - seems like these are on just the other side of that imaginary line on your coat.

    I would also recommend not getting only high-backed trousers on your next suit. If it turns out that you don't like them (or don't always want to wear braces with that suit) there won't be much you can do.

    Try getting once pair of brace-ready pants and one regular pair.


    I understand on the lapels. On pants, I am thinking about getting two pairs, but I'm afraid I might always do the more comfortable thing and wear the typical belted pair.

    Again, thank you. These more critical comments are what is most helpful.
     

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