Help Me with My First Bespoke Buttondown?

[Eustace Tilley]

I'm having my very first buttondowns made up, and would appreciate some help in refining the elements. The vast majority of BDs I see are crappy, while others (like the ones worn by Ed and Foo among others) look quite good.

So, what are the essential elements of getting the BD collar to work. Length? Softness?

Thanks - ET

 

[dragon8]

Who's your tailor?

 

[lee_44106]

I find it hilarious that you choose to ask a bunch of novices questions that many reputable and highly touted shirt-makers, who happen to operate in NYC, are much better qualified to answer.

 

[cold war painter]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

I find it hilarious that you choose to ask a bunch of novices questions that many reputable and highly touted shirt-makers, who happen to operate in NYC, are much better qualified to answer.

Expand that to clothing generally, and why have Styleforvm at all?

 

[deveandepot1]

Originally Posted by dragon8

Who's your tailor?

+1

 

[Merinos]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

I find it hilarious that you choose to ask a bunch of novices questions that many reputable and highly touted shirt-makers, who happen to operate in NYC, are much better qualified to answer.
If i speak for myself then I would like to know what the options are and how to distinguish a good tailor from a bad tailor before I enter the store, so that I know what decisions I have to make and what to look for to see whether the tailor is able to make the shirts to my likes

 

[richardcharles]

very funny, you forgot how much do they charge

 

[radicaldog]

Bring them this picture:

 

[BBC]

Lots of factors to consider in getting a good collar roll

Length of collar points
Type of fabric
Unlined, interlining, or interfacing
Position of collar buttons
Tightness of collar
Position of second placket button
Type of lining in collar band

 

[Shirtmaven]

a lot of depends on what you are looking for.
fred astair is wearing a very long pointed collar with a very large roll.
with very little or no interling inside.
ths shirt is fresh off an ironing board. by the end of the day, the back of this collar will look like mush with out a tie to keep itin place.

the collar Ihave made for ED has a wider spread then usual
Manton's collar is very long with and is self lined
lately, I have been making Button down collars with 2.5 ponts and not the old standard of 3.25"

the look and shape of the collar will change in respect to fabric as well. Oxfords will stand up better with very lightweight inter,ining.

most of the online shirtmakers can't or wont make an unfused collar. very difficult to get that soft roll

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

the look and shape of the collar will change in respect to fabric as well. Oxfords will stand up better with very lightweight inter,ining.

most of the online shirtmakers can't or wont make an unfused collar. very difficult to get that soft roll

it's been a while, but iirc this was the road to success. no online tailors around at that time...

 

[Eustace Tilley]

^ Thanks Carl and BBC.

Carl: What is the raionale behind the shorter collar length? In the FA photograph shown above (which I like), he seems to opt for a longer collar (and hence, a longer, more dramatic roll).

 

[radicaldog]

Carl,

What is your view on putting interlining only in the collar band?

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by radicaldog

Bring them this picture:

Of course, part of the beauty of Astaire's OCBDs is how relaxed they fit--look at those sleeves! This would not go over well in forum land. E.T.: I kind of think bespoke OCBDs are unnecessary. The shirts are sporty in origin and don't require the most exacting fit to look good. A little loose is better than a little tight. You can get Brooks Brothers to make you MTM shirts with unlined buttondown collars, but you must specify it yourself, as they won't ask. Mercer & Sons does a great collar, but it can be harder to work with their fitting system as they don't like to take more than a couple inches off the waist. Most buttondown collars these days are too short and neat. You need a little more length, plus proper button placement, to get a good roll.

 

[radicaldog]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Of course, part of the beauty of Astaire's OCBDs is how relaxed they fit--look at those sleeves! This would not go over well in forum land.

E.T.: I kind of think bespoke OCBDs are unnecessary. The shirts are sporty in origin and don't require the most exacting fit to look good. A little loose is better than a little tight. You can get Brooks Brothers to make you MTM shirts with unlined buttondown collars, but you must specify it yourself, as they won't ask. Mercer & Sons does a great collar, but it can be harder to work with their fitting system as they don't like to take more than a couple inches off the waist.

Most buttondown collars these days are too short and neat. You need a little more length, plus proper button placement, to get a good roll.

I subscribe to that word for word.