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Help me spend my suit $$

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by thinman, May 16, 2005.

  1. caledoniasoul2

    caledoniasoul2 Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone give us some more info on raffaelecaruso suits. Im not familar with the brand The website is in itailain. What do they offer? MTM? Who retails that line. What is the cut and house style.

    Cost?
     
  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Yoox consistently offers Jil Sander suits at under $1000. Decent return policy as well.
     
  3. Buster

    Buster Senior member

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    I have a Caruso suit that I bought in the SOHO (new york) for $800. SB, Fully Canvassed, double vented. Caruso was praised in AA by Andy as a good bang-for-the-buck.

    B
     
  4. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    Caruso is very good value for money. They also produce for Baldessarini.

    They're full canvas suits, very naepolitan. They do a very nice shoulder construction. Like a handmade shirt, it's called manica a camicie.

    There is also quite a lot of handwork in a Caruso suit. But it's not Borrelli or Kiton. But very good value for money. I just ordered a S120 MTM suit for 1100 euros.
     
  5. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Thanks again for the advice. spatten, I'll check out the NM Last Call in Grapevine Mills, just in case they have a deal I can't refuse. I'll also ask next time I'm in a NM whether or not they have Isaia MTM. johnapril, if I'm willing to spend $2500, I could just hit the bottom Zegna MTM range, but would end up spending more, maybe much more, to get fabric I like. [​IMG] LAGuy, I'll cruise the yoox site to see what Jil Sander has to offer. Jlibourel, I expect you're right that I'd get a better suit from Chan if I go with their "house style", but I'm not sure what that is. I guess one of the issues I'm struggling with is the silhouette of suit that I want. I want something relatively trim-fitting, but giving the illusion of some bulk. From manton's HOF post on suit silhouettes, it seems the neopolitan silhouette might work well. Isaia falls into this category, but what about Zegna and Caruso? Are there tailors in the OKC or Dallas areas that could do the neopolitan cut well?
     
  6. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    Caruso also features the naepolitan silhouette. Zegna is more Milanese.

    Btw, Yoox is excellent. Very good return policy and pretty much the best webshop I know. A wide range of products. They have some Canali, Caruso, Armani Collezioni (this is the Canvassed line of Armani I think).
     
  7. Buster

    Buster Senior member

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    Caruso will be sold on Yoox usually under the brand name Ma.Co, but I am not sure what ( and if) there are any differences between a R. Caruso suit and a Ma.Co. one.

    B
     
  8. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    As far as I know, Caruso is the Brand under which Ma.Co operates.

    Ma.Co doesn't sound quite as nice as Borrelli, Brioni etc. But they also make quite a few suits for other labels.
     
  9. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    Chan's house style coat has a moderate amount of waist suppression, and they use quite a bit of shoulder padding by default. If you want extreme (or zero) suppression, or very little padding in the shoulders, this would increase the chance of something not working perfectly.

    On the first suit they made for me, the button stance was a little lower than I like, and the gorge placed a little low as well. Nothing out of the range of wearability IMHO, but not precisely to my liking. Otherwise, the suit fit pretty much dead-on and we have not done any pattern modifications other than changing the gorge and button point. N.B. my original measurements were done by Raymond Kiang, not Patrick Chu who has replaced Raymond.

    I think the biggest benefit of multiple fittings in their production system is the ability to get a baste fitting to control the construction of the shoulders and lapels, and to get the button placement exactly right. A friend of mine ordered his first WW Chan suit in HK, with three fittings, and I don't think his fits any better than my first suit that was done with no interim fittings. However, he got to determine the shoulders, lapels, button placement, etc., before those items were set, and I did not.
     
  10. montmorency

    montmorency Senior member

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    I have a Caruso suit that I bought in the SOHO (new york) for $800. SB, Fully Canvassed, double vented. Caruso was praised in AA by Andy as a good bang-for-the-buck.

    Where in New York did you buy the suit? Are you saying that there is a Caruso store in Soho? If so, do you know the address?
     
  11. Buster

    Buster Senior member

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    No, there is no Caruso store in Soho. I don't have the name of the store, but it was on West B'way, just a few blocks after Ari and they carried Pal Zileri as well.

    B
     
  12. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Thanks for all of your advice. I decided to take the plunge and schedule an appointment with Chan when they visit Dallas in July. I think the A&S English silhouette is close to the Neapolitan and may suit my physique quite well. So if the A&S English silhouette is close to the Chan "house style", they should be able to do it well.
    As my appointment time approaches, I'll probably post a list of features I want in a suit and ask many more questions about styling details (This will be my first experience with anything other than RTW).

    Thanks again.
     
  13. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    Chan's house style is nothing like A&S, at least in my understanding of the A&S style. Chan normally uses a far more built-up shoulder than A&S, and does not cut their suits with the looseness and drape across the chest and shoulder blade that A&S does. Chan can make the shoulders differently with relative ease, but I don't know how successfully they can duplicate the drape cut.
     
  14. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Can anyone characterize the Chan house style as emulating a particular English house?  I have a couple suits from them but insufficient knowledge of silhouettes to do anything more than distinguish between sack and "other".

    dan
     
  15. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Chan's house style is nothing like A&S, at least in my understanding of the A&S style. Chan normally uses a far more built-up shoulder than A&S, and does not cut their suits with the looseness and drape across the chest and shoulder blade that A&S does. Chan can make the shoulders differently with relative ease, but I don't know how successfully they can duplicate the drape cut.[/quote]
    Thanks for the warning. I've read posts describing Chan's shoulders as rather built up and advice from johnnynorman3 to specify "really light padding", but I honestly haven't figured out what "drape" means yet. Reading manton's HOF post on suit silhouettes helped, but pictures would be even more helpful (I think I'm still confused about differences between "swell" and "drape" and especially about how different styles differ. Does "swell" refer to how far the jacket is lifted or built up off the chest, whereas "drape" refers to how vertically it hangs?).

    I guess I'm where dah328 is, I can distinguish a sack suit or American cut, which I don't like, but I don't have enough experience to distinguish between the others (I did look at Attolini recently and noted the really, really high gorge).
     
  16. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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  17. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Thank you. What great examples of various English silhouettes. (I had forgotten about Darren's post) I do like some of those sports jackets of Darren's shown in the post. Interesting that he he says "My own personal style was once described as a classic Huntsman/Kilgour look, coupled with a softness approximating that of an Anderson" Do you think Chan could reproduce the look if I provided several pictures? P.S. I see that Darren has copyrighted the post, so I probably need to ask his permission to download pictures.
     
  18. otis

    otis Well-Known Member

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    I haven't read thru the entire post linked below, but initially it left me skeptical of Chan. Seeing the number of times the name comes up on this group, I assume this is an anomaly? I would proceed carefully based on the pictures here: http://66.170.193.77/cgi-bin....60;st=0
     
  19. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    I had very minor issues on my first order from WW Chan, and have subsequently ordered six suits and several shirts, all of which were completely as-ordered and to my liking. Â If you search the archives for threads concerning WW Chan you will find many posts that mirror this experience with US orders--many people have minor issues on their first order, most of which are fixable, and which WW Chan generally fixes with no charge to the customer. Â One cannot expect perfection on a suit prepared from a single measuring session, and indeed you can find past posts here or at Ask Andy about botched major-label MTM suits or even botched multi-fitting bespoke work. I do think Jester's experience was an anomaly and is clearly something the company needs to fix. Â I do not recall seeing anyone else post with problems of that magnitude, or problems that WW Chan refused to fix.
     
  20. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    I did search the forum for "Chan" before emailing them to make an appointment and had followed jester's thread as it unfolded. I agree that his experience seems to be an anomaly and I think it has not yet been resolved. Most forum members seem pleased, albeit to varying degrees, with Chan's work.

    My expectations for a first suit from Chan, based on one visit for measurements are not exceptionally high, but I'll do my best to arrive armed with as much information as possible about my preferences, including pictures if possible. There's also a slight chance that I'll intersect with Chan in Northern California in November, but that seems like a long time between fittings, July to November. Might be worth it, though.
     

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