Help me round out my tie wardrobe.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Threadbearer, May 16, 2011.

  1. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    Gentlemen,
    Please take a look at the ties I currently own and let me know which essentials you think I still need.

    Going just by the numbers, it's obvious that I don't have many plaids or paisleys, but that doesn't necessarily mean that I need more plaids or paisleys, especially since I don't really need ties in my line of work in the first place. I simply want a bulletproof tie wardrobe for nothing more than my own satisfaction.


    Solids and Textureds:
    Two Drakes, David Donahue, Sam Hober cashmere, two Hober grenadines, and two Kent Wang grenadines. (Tie on far right is black.)
    [​IMG]


    Dots and Geometrics:
    Sam Hober, John Nordstom, Yorktown, Ben Silver, and Banana Republic.
    [​IMG]


    Stripes:
    Tommy Hilfiger, Robert Talbot, Drakes, and Brooks Brothers.
    [​IMG]


    Plaids and Paisleys:
    Emilio Ponti, JZ Richards, Brooks Brothers, and John Nordstrom.
    [​IMG]


    Knits:
    Land's End (forest green), three TieBar.com, and two Brooks Brothers wool knits. (Tie on far right is navy.)
    [​IMG]


    I really want this tie from Drakes: http://www.drakes-london.com/catalog...e/category/37/. But although it's a thing of beauty in its own right, I'm not sure how much actual use it would get. Moreover, I already own a lot of solid ties.

    Looking over my current collection, I might be better off with another striped tie, such as this one: http://www.drakes-london.com/ties/sp...e-8cm-silk-tie, or with another plaid, such as this: https://www.kentwang.com/ties/wool-glen-plaid.html

    What holes need to be filled in my current collection?

    P.S. Out of curiosity, does anyone consider silver reppe a staple? http://www.drakes-london.com/ties/do...m-silk-tie-504
     


  2. JapanAlex01

    JapanAlex01 Senior member

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    Bow ties? I would ditch those two paisley ones (the one on the right is OK)... or is that just because I, generally, hate paisley (it's rare to find one that works)? You could get some spotted, knit ties? Although, I see you have many already! How about wool ties?
     


  3. either/or

    either/or Senior member

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    here is how it's done [​IMG] -nice ties, btw.
     


  4. Don Carlos

    Don Carlos In Time Out

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    Ditch those two yellow ties, for starters. They foogly.

    Next, invest in some more stripes in classic color patterns (look around here for examples). Maybe add some printed neats and geometrics. Grab a few greenish tartan plaids. And nobody ever went wrong by buying a wide variety of navy solids in different textures and weaves.
     


  5. idfnl

    idfnl Senior member

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    Your collection looks pretty good.

    It may not be your taste, but I'd suggest something whimsical like a couple of animal prints (NO V Vines unless you are > 25), they often look very appropriate in the right situation.

    A wool plaid wouldn't hurt to have, either.

    Also, while boring, a classic geometric like this one are always nice to have:

    [​IMG]
     


  6. landshark

    landshark Senior member

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    I would ditch #2&3 from the 1st photo, #1 from the 3rd photo, and #4 from the 4th photo.
     


  7. GoldenTribe

    GoldenTribe Senior member

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    here is how it's done [​IMG]
    :\\ he deleted it already Was it the tie version of this girl's denim collection? [​IMG]
     


  8. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    You're missing a lot of those great printed silks that makers like Marinella and Capelli are fond of. Drakes does good ones. Panta has made a number as well.
     


  9. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Threadbearer, here is some unsolicited advice , do with it as you wish:

    I won't say anything about ties you should buy, due to conflict of interest and all that but I will tell you (again, just my opinion/advice) what you should toss. Get rid of the first three repps, just keep the grey/red. Get rid of the paiselys/plaid. You have 4 knit ties too many.

    Some people buy ties to go with a specific outfit. Others just buy ties that they like. Regardless of how you approach your tie buying, you still have to do it within the context of your wardrobe, otherwise outfits look incongruent. From what I've seen, you don't really have a "knit tie" wardrobe. Knits look good with tweeds, odd jackets etc. You also don't have the wardrobe for paisleys/repps. You seem to favor patterned suits/jackets and non white/blue shirts. When you have pattern/color is the suit or shirt, which are such large expanses of fabric, you can't go hog wild on the tie. Even if the patterns are small, it becomes too much IMO when you have a patterned suit, green, peach or whatever color shirt and a tie with 3/4 colors.

    Which brings me to your shirts. Your outfits would improve drastically if you got better fitting shirts. I think you were doing a MTM jacket recently, forget that for now. Get MTM/custom shirts. Your shirt collars are not doing you any favors. The points are too small, not spread enough and not enough height.

    here is an example where you look great from a color of outfit perspective, but the shirt collar fit ruins it:

    It's a hard roll 3 suit so that makes it look a bit wonky but suit/shirt/tie are good, I would prefer a different color repp tie but whatever. But the shirt collar should not fit that way, we should not see that much of the points, you are a tal, skinny guy. You can go taller collar (just a smidge), longer points and more spread.

    [​IMG]

    Your suit jackets have issues but I am not going to tell you to run out and get 10 new MTM/bespoke suits but if you get your shirt collars better, you will notice an improvement in your overall look. You seem to wear a lot of worsted wool stuff, to me that tells me that you need less knits/wools/cashmeres and more silk neats. Also, you seem to like similar color pant/sportcoat sombo's, you need to contrast that a bit more. Sportcoats should like sportcoats, you don't have to go Rodney Dangerfield in Caddyshack (like I do), but it should not be confused with a suit jacket. So I would start with shirts, I would stay away from lime, orange, peach etc colors, if you get patterns, keep them small and then work your tie purchases into your wardrobe, don't get an orange tie simply because you don't have an orange tie and don't ignore a solid color tie because you have "too many". Take a look at textures, weaves etc. You seem to get the color cordination part, but your outfits always seem to have at least one thing that is "off", and it's usually the shirt/tie or a combo thereof. Start there, that is the foundation, then build out.

    Anyway, just my opinion and you know what they say about opinions.........
     


  10. HarleyBob

    HarleyBob Senior member

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  11. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    Ditch those two yellow ties, for starters. They foogly.
    First off, AB, this is not a tie culling thread. It's about where to build. Second, there's only one yellow tie in the collection, and it's this one:

    [​IMG]

    It's sharp and I'm not getting rid of it. However, the other tie I think you were referring to is a light green plaid, and I may indeed send it to Good Will. I think of it as a summer tie, but I never found myself reaching for it last summer.

    Also, while boring, a classic geometric like this one are always nice to have:
    Agreed, but neats and geometrics scare me as I've not proven to be very good at working them into outfits. I'll have to get back up on that horse carefully.

    I would ditch #2&3 from the 1st photo, #1 from the 3rd photo, and #4 from the 4th photo.
    Again, not a culling thread. And I'm shocked -- shocked, I say -- that you would recommend ditching my purple Drakes reppe. This purple Drakes reppe, in fact.

    [​IMG]

    That is one splendid-ass tie.

    You're missing a lot of those great printed silks that makers like Marinella and Capelli are fond of. Drakes does good ones. Panta has made a number as well.
    You're not wrong, my friend, but see my comment, above, to idfnl.

    Threadbearer, here is some unsolicited advice , do with it as you wish:

    I won't say anything about ties you should buy, due to conflict of interest and all that but I will tell you (again, just my opinion/advice) what you should toss. Get rid of the first three repps, just keep the grey/red. Get rid of the paiselys/plaid. You have 4 knit ties too many.

    Some people buy ties to go with a specific outfit. Others just buy ties that they like. Regardless of how you approach your tie buying, you still have to do it within the context of your wardrobe, otherwise outfits look incongruent. From what I've seen, you don't really have a "knit tie" wardrobe. Knits look good with tweeds, odd jackets etc. You also don't have the wardrobe for paisleys/repps. You seem to favor patterned suits/jackets and non white/blue shirts. When you have pattern/color is the suit or shirt, which are such large expanses of fabric, you can't go hog wild on the tie. Even if the patterns are small, it becomes too much IMO when you have a patterned suit, green, peach or whatever color shirt and a tie with 3/4 colors.

    Which brings me to your shirts. Your outfits would improve drastically if you got better fitting shirts. I think you were doing a MTM jacket recently, forget that for now. Get MTM/custom shirts. Your shirt collars are not doing you any favors. The points are too small, not spread enough and not enough height.

    here is an example where you look great from a color of outfit perspective, but the shirt collar fit ruins it:

    It's a hard roll 3 suit so that makes it look a bit wonky but suit/shirt/tie are good, I would prefer a different color repp tie but whatever. But the shirt collar should not fit that way, we should not see that much of the points, you are a tal, skinny guy. You can go taller collar (just a smidge), longer points and more spread.

    [​IMG]

    Your suit jackets have issues but I am not going to tell you to run out and get 10 new MTM/bespoke suits but if you get your shirt collars better, you will notice an improvement in your overall look. You seem to wear a lot of worsted wool stuff, to me that tells me that you need less knits/wools/cashmeres and more silk neats. Also, you seem to like similar color pant/sportcoat sombo's, you need to contrast that a bit more. Sportcoats should like sportcoats, you don't have to go Rodney Dangerfield in Caddyshack (like I do), but it should not be confused with a suit jacket. So I would start with shirts, I would stay away from lime, orange, peach etc colors, if you get patterns, keep them small and then work your tie purchases into your wardrobe, don't get an orange tie simply because you don't have an orange tie and don't ignore a solid color tie because you have "too many". Take a look at textures, weaves etc. You seem to get the color cordination part, but your outfits always seem to have at least one thing that is "off", and it's usually the shirt/tie or a combo thereof. Start there, that is the foundation, then build out.

    Anyway, just my opinion and you know what they say about opinions.........

    Damn, ed! That was the most comprehensive critique I've ever received. And I thank you for it! There's so much in there to chew on that I saved it to my hard drive for future reference. Very much appreciated, sir. [​IMG]

    Look at David Hober's macclesfield print ties. There are a lot of very nice, subtle geometric prints in a wide range of colors. Your current collection doesn't have any of this type of tie.

    http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/

    I'll take a look, HB. Thanks for the link.
     


  12. ColonialBoy

    ColonialBoy Well-Known Member

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    First off, AB, this is not a tie culling thread. It's about where to build. Second, there's only one yellow tie in the collection, and it's this one:
    Your selection is generally good. I would not wear the knit ties very often. The yellow/blue stripe looks like something Nautica would make & I would say its your best. I like bright colours. Too conservative = people think you are a fuddy duddy. A few suggestions - a herringbone/houndstooth (I think you have a houndstooth already) - for single colour ties I go for texture - I like subtle geometric patterns; an olive/sage; - a marbled tie, japanese imports, something conservative bit a bit quirky I DONT wear striped ties, I leave that to everyone else. If you refuse to wear striped ties your mindset completely changes. There are some very interesting ties on ebay, a few sellers have consistently good ties for offer.
     


  13. blackdice

    blackdice Well-Known Member

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    As for the solid ties, I'd explore a wider range of fabrics / textures - linen and garza, which are perfect for spring and summer, and wool, cashmere, escorial. These would make quite a big difference I suppose.

    For the geometric / patterned ties, I'd start with navy / brown based ones. Both Drake's and Cappelli do a lot of lovely patterns in these colours and the patterns they use are usually not loud at all (e.g. circles, flowers, crests, etc.) and more modern than the ones used by Marinella so fairly easy to coordinate. Then I'd move into other colours such as dark green, burgundy, etc. My Cappelli tie that idfnl quoted above is in dark green, which is very versatile and works well with pretty much any shirts.
     


  14. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Ed just gave you everything you could ever want for a true, honest critique. Im +1000ing the MTM shirts, rather than playing with your ties. There is nothing here that you are really missing besides a few neats, but the shirt thing is major, major advice.
     


  15. acridsheep

    acridsheep Senior member

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    :\\ he deleted it already

    Was it the tie version of this girl's denim collection?
    [​IMG]


    Saucy!
     


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