Help me pick my first pair of Vass MTOs

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ramuman, Jan 13, 2010.

  1. ramuman

    ramuman Senior member

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    I've decided to try out a Vass and with kolecho placing an order soon, the time just seems right. I'm set on a very classic balmoral captoe with no medallion in a dark brown on the F last. Stylistically I want to keep a couple of things including the double to single sole taper. I want this to be my go to brown shoe but keep a little of the Vass trademarks.

    I'll probably add metal toe taps, but beyond that, I'm at a loss. I ask the forum to help me decide the following:

    1) Type of captoe...punched or not? A tiny bit of pizzaz can't go out of style right?

    2) Sizing...I decided against the U last since C&J took care of me with the 348. FWIW, I'm a Brannock 10.5C, a 9.5E UK in the C&J 348 and 240, 10D in the RL Darlton, etc. Basically somewhere between a US 10D and a slightly narrow US 10.5. My guess is 44 in the F?

    3) Color. I want something dark brown, so no cognac, oxblood etc. There's always 'dark brown' itself. I'm looking at just calf for this shoe.
     
  2. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    this would be my config

    F last - single or double sole
    Antique Cognac Box Claf
    Punched cap Oxfords

    simple clean and elegant - hell, in fact i am wearing them today!![​IMG]
     
  3. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Senior member

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  4. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    For you, I suggest an Adelaide, like the one on the right, but with a punch cap instead of the floating medallion:

    [​IMG]


    - B
     
  5. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Vox,the adelaides are very very nice,they are on my list[​IMG]
    Is it shell?
     
  6. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Senior member

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  7. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For you, I suggest an Adelaide, like the one on the right, but with a punch cap instead of the floating medallion:

    [​IMG]


    - B


    That was going to be my exact suggestion. Adelaide, punch cap with no medallion.
     
  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    That was going to be my exact suggestion. Adelaide, punch cap with no medallion.

    Vass does a handsome Adelaide...their regular oxfords are nice but I don't think as special.


    - B
     
  9. ramuman

    ramuman Senior member

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    For you, I suggest an Adelaide, like the one on the right, but with a punch cap instead of the floating medallion: - B
    This has essentially slotted itself into slot #1 in dark brown.
    Vox,the adelaides are very very nice,they are on my list[​IMG] Is it shell?
    Vox and aportnoy make the line between worn/new as blurred as that between calf/shell.
    Here you go.
    ? That's in a different last, a different size, different style, and different color.
    That was going to be my exact suggestion. Adelaide, punch cap with no medallion.
    I love positive reinforcement. [​IMG]
     
  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Vox,the adelaides are very very nice,they are on my list[​IMG]
    Is it shell?


    Nope...calf.


    - B
     
  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    This has essentially slotted itself into slot #1 in dark brown.

    One thing to ask your able intermediary is if you can request the sole to be cut close.

    I never do because I prefer a slight rustic effect on Vass, and let the Northampton shoes play the urbe. But, if you are thinking of this as a workhorse suit shoe, see about asking for a close trimmed sole, even with the double to single.

    Also ask for a Reddenbach sole...you'll lose the fancy sole painting that goes with the Ugolini Vass, but the Reddenbach is closer to the quality of a the best oak tanned English soles.


    - B
     
  12. ramuman

    ramuman Senior member

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    One thing to ask your able intermediary is if you can request the sole to be cut close. I never do because I prefer a slight rustic effect on Vass, and let the Northampton shoes play the urbe. But, if you are thinking of this as a workhorse suit shoe, see about asking for a close trimmed sole, even with the double to single. Also ask for a Reddenbach sole...you'll lose the fancy sole painting that goes with the Ugolini Vass, but the Reddenbach is closer to the quality of a the best oak tanned English soles. - B
    I thought the J. R. soles were the Vass default despite having seen other soles [​IMG] , but I will be sure to mention this in the order. This is a sizing/staple shoe for me despite those two concepts being somewhat diametrically opposed. I also had no idea the outsole could be ordered cut closer, but I sort of want to keep the Vass flavor. I have a similar concept (that is a shoe that is in keeping true to the manufacturer's style) I'm considering in monk form with EG so I'll be okay if the Vass wants to present itself as a Vass. EDIT: For how much whnay. complains that this forum isn't big timer enough, it sure has small timer uptime.
     
  13. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Those Adelaides are sweeeeeet...F-last, I presume? I've become quite enamored with that last recently. It has excellent balance. It seems to be what the 82 wishes it could be.
     
  14. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    Really? It seems rounder and less shaped than the 82. I'd like to see what Vass could put up against the Dover on the 82.
     
  15. hws

    hws Senior member

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    One thing to ask your able intermediary is if you can request the sole to be cut close. I never do because I prefer a slight rustic effect on Vass, and let the Northampton shoes play the urbe. But, if you are thinking of this as a workhorse suit shoe, see about asking for a close trimmed sole, even with the double to single. Also ask for a Reddenbach sole...you'll lose the fancy sole painting that goes with the Ugolini Vass, but the Reddenbach is closer to the quality of a the best oak tanned English soles. - B
    Is Rendenbach! [​IMG]
     

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