Help me evaluate my collar. Too narrow for me?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Genken, Jan 25, 2012.

  1. Genken

    Genken Member

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    Hey everyone,

    Just started to learn about all of this clothing related stuff. Never paid attention to collars before, and never even knew there was different spreads until I started lurking here.

    I have about 4 dress shirts in different colors of this style shirt. I like the shirts because they have a slim fit that complements my body type pretty well. However, I never paid attention to the collar.

    Now this is a quick and dirty webcam pic, but judging from the collar against my neck/chin, does this collar look ok, or is it too narrow?

    [​IMG]
    Thanks for your feedback!
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2012


  2. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Not a fan of the collar at all. Lays poorly, too short, etc. Let me guess... H&M?
     


  3. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Is your face long and narrow? If so, I'd go with a spread collar, and not a point collar like that one. As Flusser says in Clothes and the Man, counterbalance a long and narrow face with a spread collar. Counterbalance a wide and short face with a non-spread.

    I have a long and narrow face. I choose medium spreads because I don't like to be too conspicuous. Some guys on here would go for an extreme cutaway.

    I agree with musicguy that the collar could be a touch higher.

    Try bespoke.
     


  4. Liquidus

    Liquidus Senior member

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    Does anyone on this forum actually wear a point collar? All I hear about are button-downs, spreads, and cutaways.
     


  5. Genken

    Genken Member

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    Haha, damn you're good. Yep, never really shopped at H&M before but I liked the fit of their dress shirts a lot (especially for that price). When I bought them I wasn't really looking at the collar and didn't even know anything about spread collars, point collars etc.

    With budget concerns in mind, could you guys recommend a more appropriate collar shirt that has a slim/extra slim fit and won't break the bank? I tried on the Brooks Brothers extra slim today, and while it fit quite nicely, $88 a shirt is just out of range for me at the time being. Some similar fitting button-down collars would be great as well.



    I would say long and narrow moreso than short and wide.. just a pretty normally proportionoed face. Bespoke just means custom tailored right, or is there a brand name I'm not aware of that uses bespoke?


    I appreciate your guys' feedback by the way.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2012


  6. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

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    Bespoke? Such a random and odd thing to suggest... especially for someone that bought their shirt from H&M. What kind of suggestion is "bespoke" to someone who is asking about the style of his collar.



    Back to the collar, it's too short and small for me. If you're wearing with ties, I prefer a spread/cutaway collar.
     


  7. Octoberfile

    Octoberfile Senior member

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    Many members here, including myself, do actually wear "point" collars, since most every type of collar has points (there are exceptions...priest collars) . The term "spread" collar is used rather loosely on this forum. Technically, all collars have points and spreads. The point defines the shape of the tip of the collar and how long the collar is from the band (length) and the spread measures the differential between the two points.There are very extra wide spread collars, medium spread collars, and the more traditional 3/4" space, classic straight point collar (which you'll see quite a few members wearing on WAYWRN).

    You don't want your shirt to have too wide of a spread, unless you plan on tying a double windsor knot. A 4-in-hand with a very wide spread will look like a penis is growing out of your neck. A very narrow spread will also have its limitations.

    What most members here prefer are medium spread collars (0.75" to 1.25") tie space between points with a 2.75" - 3" length from the collar points to the top of the band of the shirt.

    What you are wearing is one of those skinny tie modern collars with a 0.75" spread, but the length of the collar is very short, which is why the points remain exposed between the V-neck openings of your sweater.

    Oxford button down collared shirts are a classic staple and have a very traditional, narrower spread between points, but also have a much longer length measurement from collar points to neck band. If you unbuttoned the oxford collars, you'd probably rush to call it a "point" collar. However, the nighmare that is modern men's fashion has created many button down collared shirts with shorter collar band to point lengths that make it impossible to wear a suit that will not cause large space gaps between the points of the collar and the jacket lapel.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2012


  8. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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  9. Octoberfile

    Octoberfile Senior member

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    The terms "point" collar and "spread" collar are commonly used beyond the nucleus of this thread, but the point I'm trying to make is that op's issue with the gap between the V-neck and the collar isn't necessarily with the spread measurement. If the spread were wider, but the length from the points to the collar band remain the same, then a gap would still exist in the V-neck opening. Basically, the shirt op is wearing is a shorter modern collar intended to be worn with a fashion forward suit and skinny tie. There are numerous "point" collars with narrower spread measurements, but appropriate point to band lengths that would not create such a gap between collar and lapel openings.
     


  10. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    Point collars are usually longer than the OP's and are often called "long point" collars. To go from H&M to bespoke seems a bit of a stretch. Perhaps Brooks Brothers extra slim fit to start?
    Does anyone on this board know how to spell complement? :hide:
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2012


  11. Roger Everett

    Roger Everett Senior member

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    The first thing, that caught my eye, was that your knot is a bit too large for the closeness of the collar lay ( angle of points from center line ). I also do a larger knot than the uneven 4 in one.
    i find my new like is a modified spread ( about half way between a point and a spread. I have also gotten kinda of hooked on BB non-irons. Never paid the $88 though -- wait for the sales and coupons.
    Roger
     


  12. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    :slayer:

    Alright! Guessed correctly! I knew it was H&M because I had the same experience a few years ago. Their shirts fit me well, but the collar was just so terrible that I couldn't wear them. I wound up just returning them.

    For slim shirts, it's tough to get something inexpensive. If you're willing to give it a try, ModernTailor.com offers made-to-measure (MTM) shirts for a good price. I used them for years. Only recently, I've switched to real MTM, but I can afford it now. First shirt is usually not so great, but once you hone in your measurements, it'll be very hard to go back to OTR shirts.

    Also, if you live in Philly or NYC area, check out Daffy's. They have some european/italian brands that are cut slim and nice for a great price.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2012


  13. jamesny

    jamesny Senior member

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    My initial reaction - it's too narrow and the tie knot is huge.
     


  14. brokencycle

    brokencycle Senior member

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    Try Charles Tyrwhitt. They're always having a sale. Currently they're starting at $35. You can probably find a free shipping coupon or a $10 off coupon or something similar from a site like Retailmenot.com I think if you register you also get a coupon.
     


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