Help me choose shirting

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Kei-bon, Aug 19, 2010.

  1. Kei-bon

    Kei-bon Senior member

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    "O Elders, fleet and strong and wise ..."

    Have an appt coming up with MyTailor, my first go at order-made shirts. I want to order button-downs in some semi-solids (fine stripe, small check). I want a fabric a bit less stiff than oxford cloth (I have several OCBDs) but still with some body (nothing too "silky"). Thomas Mason twills for example: would that suit? I'd appreciate any advice on the best or most appropriate material for this sort of shirt. Thanks in advance!
     




  2. Sebastian Melmoth

    Sebastian Melmoth Well-Known Member

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  3. Don Carlos

    Don Carlos In Time Out

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    two ply royal oxford
    TM royal oxfords tend to be very fine and silky. Hell, most TM fabrics tend to be. But I don't think you're going to get enough beefiness for a classic button-down in TM's royal oxford. I would ask Joe (or whoever measures you at the appountment) for recommendations in a pinpoint oxford, be it TM or otherwise. I realize you don't want something as thick as a traditional oxford cloth, but trust me when I say that TM royal oxford won't be ideal for this task. See what they come up with. Twill might get you a bit closer to what you want in terms of hand. But it's not usually associated with button-downs, and it can wear pretty hot.
     


  4. Kei-bon

    Kei-bon Senior member

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    thanks for the advice, guys. I don't really like the look or the feel of royal oxford, but i will definitely consider the pinpoint oxfords.

    and thanks for the note on twill, AB; i was wondering just that--whether it was an odd choice for BD shirts.

    one more thing: are there limits on the sort of patterns traditionally made up with a BD collar? i'm not planning anything outre--maybe tattersall or gingham check. forgive me if this is a silly question!
     


  5. Don Carlos

    Don Carlos In Time Out

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    thanks for the advice, guys. I don't really like the look or the feel of royal oxford, but i will definitely consider the pinpoint oxfords.

    and thanks for the note on twill, AB; i was wondering just that--whether it was an odd choice for BD shirts.

    one more thing: are there limits on the sort of patterns traditionally made up with a BD collar? i'm not planning anything outre--maybe tattersall or gingham check. forgive me if this is a silly question!


    Tattersal and gingham are wholly appropriate for BD shirts. In fact, there are some who would go so far as to say that gingham or tattersal should only be made into BDs, being somewhat casual patterns when compared to most.

    Your only limits for BD shirts are the fabric selection and your imagination. MyTailor stocks a pretty extensive book of fabrics, so I am sure you will find some choices in it that you like. As for what is "traditional," it really depends on the type of shirt you mean. If you are looking to classic American OCBDs as your inspiration, I'd say that the staples are white, light blue, pink, and occasionally (though rarer these days than in recent decades) light yellow. Blue stripes are also pretty traditional here.
     


  6. Kei-bon

    Kei-bon Senior member

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  7. LanceW

    LanceW Senior member

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    I too find TM twill to be very warm. When I order shirts from MyTailor I specify:

    Extra thick buttons.
    Hand stitched shoulders.
    Split mitered yoke.
    Add extra button/button hole to bottom of shirt.
    Pocket on right side, opposite from normal. (left handed)
     


  8. Kei-bon

    Kei-bon Senior member

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    Lance, thanks for the suggestions. I'm lefthanded too, and i had never thought about pocket placement, but now you've got me thinking.

    Can you tell me why a split mitered yoke is better?
     


  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A split yoke is only better if it is cut on the bias, which for most checks and stripes is sideways. The bias has natural stretch so when it is in the shoulder area it is more comfortable and provides a lot of natural give. One piece straight or sideways yokes are very restrictive even with any pleating.

    +1 on Pinpoint
     


  10. Odd I/O

    Odd I/O Senior member

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    I too find TM twill to be very warm. When I order shirts from MyTailor I specify:

    Extra thick buttons.
    Hand stitched shoulders.
    Split mitered yoke.
    Add extra button/button hole to bottom of shirt.
    Pocket on right side, opposite from normal. (left handed)


    Lance, are the extra thick buttons Mother of Pearl? When I had my appointment with the MyTailor representative recently he indicated that the thicker buttons were not mother of pearl.

    How much extra were the hand stitched shoulder option?

    And what is the purpose of the extra button? Just more buttons?
     


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