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Help me choose a special pair of Edward Green shoes

thinman

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I've been trying for more than a year to determine my correct sizing in Edward Green shoes, but Sky Valet has never had any EG shoes in my size when I've visited and the RL Mackays are a little too snug near the balls of my feet. Although I travel for work occasionally, I've always missed the EG trunk shows, so I was excited to learn that the Beverly Hills Ralph Lauren store would have an EG trunk show in early May, while I'm living in San Diego. Late last Thursday, I called the Beverly Hills store to ask what dates they would hold their EG trunk show and the salesman told me that Hilary Freeman of EG would be in the store from 10am to noon the following day to train the sales staff how to fit EG shoes and I could be fitted then. I was very excited and drove to Beverly Hills, where Hilary measured my feet and promised to send several try-on pairs in various sizes to the store, as my orthotics complicated the fitting procedure.

Before I called the store, I had all but decided to order a Dover in antique burgundy, but Soph's posts of his jodhpur boots near the end of last week had made me start considering the EG Gresham and Newmarket. And once I started looking at the EG catalogue, I began re-considering the Ashby monkstraps, which have long been a favorite of mine. While I was in the RL store looking at the leather swatches from EG, I also began to question my choice of antique burgundy. I think burnt pine is just divine, the brandy willow calf is gorgeous, and EG has a host of other wonderful leather swatches as well. So I need your help choosing my EG shoes.

Because my finances mean that this may be my only pair of special order EG shoes, I want the shoes to be special. I see several possible ways to choose: (1) I can configure a shoe that is as versatile as possible, so I'll wear it as much as possible and minimize the cost per wearing or (2) I can select something that is truly a dazzling special occasion shoe, or (3) I can aim for a combination of the first two. Since I rarely wear suits, a versatile shoe would need to be appropriate for wearing with jeans and business casual clothing. Given the preferences I described above, what would you do? Given your own tastes, are there great options I haven't considered? In short, how would you spend my money if you were in my shoes?
 

Film Noir Buff

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Originally Posted by thinman
So I need your help choosing my EG shoes.

Because my finances mean that this may be my only pair of special order EG shoes, I want the shoes to be special. I see several possible ways to choose: (1) I can configure a shoe that is as versatile as possible, so I’ll wear it as much as possible and minimize the cost per wearing or (2) I can select something that is truly a dazzling special occasion shoe, or (3) I can aim for a combination of the first two. Since I rarely wear suits, a versatile shoe would need to be appropriate for wearing with jeans and business casual clothing. Given the preferences I described above, what would you do? Given your own tastes, are there great options I haven’t considered? In short, how would you spend my money if you were in my shoes?


Get something you'll wear every other day. Those bad boys are made for severe road testing.
 

Teacher

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Were I in your place, I'd go with option number three. Go with a design that's a bit different -- but not too different -- to add a bit of flare or elegance. Have the design made up in an antiqued brown shade that can be work with much of your wardrobe: the beauty of the leather and the antiqing will make it stand out a little, but again, it'll be versatile to wear often and with many things.
 

zjpj83

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If I were in your shoes, I'd ask: what are the "signature" EG looks that you aren't going to get anywehre else? The answer, I think is: their hand-sewn split toe, which I think they do better than anyone else; and their antiquing. I think, therefore, that if I were to get one pair of special order shoes, it would be one of their split toe models - probably the Dover, the Yardley, or the new Ecton. To best take advantage of EG's wonderful antiquing, I would probably get Edwardian antique, acorn antique, or burnt pine. In the end, I would personally go with an Ecton in Edwardian, but I think any of those would be a great EG shoe to have.
 

bengal-stripe

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Of course it depends what other shoes you have already in your wardrobe.

I would opt for the Dover; on a well-chosen last, it is simply perfection. (There is a reason, why this is EG's signature design.)

Burnt Pine is a good color choice; it's not so light as to draw too much attention to the shoes, nor is it too dark to fade into the background.
 

zjpj83

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Burnt Pine is a great color. I'm revising my selection to: Ecton, burnt pine, 606 last.
 

itsstillmatt

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I would get the pair that I like the looks of the most.

This might seem like odd advice, but there is no sense in having a Dover because it is their signiture shoe if you do not like the way the shoe looks. I happen to like the Dover, but that is beside the point. My orders from EG have all been a bit out of the ordinary, but I had a pretty clear idea of what kind of shoe I wanted and tried to find the one that they offered that was closest to that.
 

AlanC

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I wouldn't get a special occasion shoe, get something you'll use and that fits your needs. A monkstrap sounds like just the right sort of thing, but the Dover might be the better choice since it's EG. While a boot might be tempting, unless you know you'll wear it a lot, I wouldn't opt for that as my first one. They could be hot in San Diego.

As for color, I would choose something that maximizes EG's antiquing.
 

sysdoc

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Sorry for chiming in late ...
I'd clearly get a shoe that I can wear a lot rather than the special occasion shoe that is hidden in the closet 99 of 100 days. I think it's common knowledge that I've got a huge amount of high end shoes. My latest count is more than 2 ^ 7, so I have a lot of shoes to choose from. I think I've got a very good idea which shoes I wear a lot and which I happen to put on only very rarely. I am also in the lucky situation that I don't HAVE TO wear formal clothes on a day to day basis. I love to wear suits and as long as the weather permits I'm always seen in at least a sports coat, but with said sports coat I often wear a pair of nicely cut jeans. It therefore sounds as if we are in a very similar situation. My first advice is to not go for too dark a color. Dark Oak is clearly not the right choice for a nice casual outfit. It's too boring. The same's valid for your former choice of Burgundy. You should at least choose Burnt Pine, but I'd suggest a tinge or even a couple of tinges lighter, leading to either Edwardian or even Acorn. You've got to realize that this will be a pair of really beautiful shoes. These shoes are more of an attraction to you as well as others when the color is light. Another thing to realize is EG's antiqueing. It looks best with the highest depth in Edwardian or Acorn. Now as far as the model choice goes, you will first have to find the last that's right for you, because certain models look better on one and worse on another last. Some models will always look good, as e.g. the Ladbroke or the Newbury (Semi Whole Cut / Whole Cut). My experience is that my most worn EGs are my Newburys (whole cut), my Ladbrokes (semi whole cut), my Dovers, my Inverness' and my Ashby/Yardleys. Each of them goes with jeans as well as suits, especially in Edwardian or Acorn, but of course also in Burnt Pine. I'd go pretty much with Z's suggestion. Get a Dover or an Ecton, second choice being an Ashby. Choose the last wisely. Don't choose the 606 as it's the most common Dover last. I gave the same advice to Andrew last year. I love my Dover on the 82 last. It's rather unique and very pretty. Consider the 888 last as an alternative if you prefer a chisel toe over a round toe. My secret tip however is something that Hilary won't like. Ask for the "Halford". It's the Ladbroke with a hand stitched apron. Susie showed it around on her last US trip early this year. Hilary later decided it was un-EG and scrapped the model. I might be the only person who has a pair of that shoe. Let me know in case you want a picture of it.
 

sysdoc

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There's one interesting model I forgot to suggest:

EG Fulham!

It's EG's version of Lobb's "Millenium Shoe", the Vintage 2000. The Fulham has the split toe hand stitched apron feature teamed up with a double buckle. It's IMO not good for formal wear, but it kicks butt with jeans or casual slacks.

Have that shoe made on the 82 or 888 last in heavily antiqued Edwardian or Acorn and you'll own a unique and beautiful shoe. In fact, I think *I* better order this combination ASAP.
 

bengal-stripe

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Originally Posted by sysdoc
My secret tip however is something that Hilary won't like. Ask for the "Halford".
Do not ask for the "Halford" (Halford is a push-bike anyhow, here in the UK).

If Hilary refuses (she probably will, the design has been killed and Hilary can be a bit school marm-ish), we'll get pages over pages how the machinations of capitalism are contraire to the needs of the true shoe aficionado etc. etc. (Please, not again!!!)

After all, I could not persuade Hilary to make up a pair of "Herricks" (a design EG had decided not to produce any longer due to technical difficulties). I had to get those boots second-hand from Japan.
 

sysdoc

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Originally Posted by bengal-stripe
Do not ask for the “Halford” (Halford is a push-bike anyhow, here in the UK). If Hilary refuses (she probably will, the design has been killed and Hilary can be a bit school marm-ish), we’ll get pages over pages how the machinations of capitalism are contraire to the needs of the true shoe aficionado etc. etc. (Please, not again!!!) After all, I could not persuade Hilary to make up a pair of “Herricks” (a design EG had decided not to produce any longer due to technical difficulties). I had to get those boots second-hand from Japan.
Oh, bengal-stripe, I wasn't aware of the fact that you have experience with Hilary's charme.
Besides, what's wrong with good old Halford's?
 

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