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HELP -- Having trouble finding new suit for athletic build

malat

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Hi guys,

I'm getting married in early October. I've been looking for a new suit and I am having trouble finding an OTR suit that at least gets close to my proportions so that I can have a tailor work his magic for final fitting.

The problem is that I am a 42" coat and a 32/33" waist; also I am bout 5'9" 175lbs. Depending upon the brand, I usually go for a 42 R or S and have the pants hacked. However, I've been looking for a slightly nicer suit for my wedding, and I am running into trouble finding a suit ~$2000 that doesn't make the tailor cry when he sees my broad shoulder and large arms along with substantially smaller waist. For example, this weekend I found the perfect mid-grey E. Zegna suit, but the high, narrow arm holes of the 42" were a difficult fit for my arms and shoulders (I noted large creases at the front of the arms extending down the sleeve from my arm pits). The 44" fit better in the arms but completely engulfed me everywhere else. The in-house tailor recommended that I stick with the 42" but even he acknowledged that the fit was less than ideal and that it would take quite a bit of work on his part to let out the arm holes while maintaining the integrity of the suit.

I had not anticipated I would have this kind of trouble, else I would have tried MTM. Since I don't have enough time for MTM, does anyone have any recommendations for a fully-canvased, modern cut suit in the $2k price range? I know some tailoring work will need to be done, but I'd like to avoid a major hacking of the suit if possible. Thanks for any advice.
 

OttoSkadelig

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i have a similar build and thoroughly understand your predicament. i can't even get my arms through into the sleeves of most slim fits.

an isaia base "S" is what you want. it is a sculpted cut, with a close fit (sharp drop, high armholes) but is roomy enough that you won't be bursting out of it.

make sure you get a Base S, though, as the other models will be too skinny or too roomy.

also, you will have to get one on sale or used, as they run $3000+ at retail.

some belvests should also work.
 

malat

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Thanks for the quick reply. I'm going to check out the sales racks at Saks and Barneys to see if there are any of the Isaia suits left. Nonetheless, I'm going to try them on for the fit. This is very helpful, as I'm pretty screwed if I can't track down a suit that fits soon.
 

Nicola

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Originally Posted by malat
E. Zegna suit, but the high, narrow arm holes of the 42" were a difficult fit for my arms and shoulders (I noted large creases at the front of the arms extending down the sleeve from my arm pits). The 44" fit better in the arms but completely engulfed me everywhere else. .

Which cut were these? Roma or Milano?

If it was the Roma try the Milano 44.

OTOH if it was a Milano you tried on you could try the Roma 42 but if the shoulders are tight on one then aren't much/any bigger on the other.
 

Saltricks

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ugh ive come to realize that this is my problem as well. Broad shoulder, big arms, smaller waist (drop 10)
 

malat

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Thanks guys.
Nicola, for some reason I seem to remember the salesperson mention that this particular Wilkes Bashford store only buys the Roma cut. I will double check for sure when I go back in this weekend for another round. I really hope I get lucky and find a suit that I can fit!
 

Nicola

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If the shop stocks the Couture cut try that on. It'll be closer to the Milano. The couture is more money but if you find the couture fits then you can look around for the Milano.
 

aleeboy

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The only jacket that can fit me off the shelf are from EZ top of the line range.

Arm holes, shoulders and chest fit very nice.
 

malat

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Got a call from the salesman. The suit I originally tried was the more fashion cut Milano EZ, however he received a Roma cut yesterday. MUCH better. Arm holes feel great and won't require butchering. We're going to tailor the jacket a bit in the waist and the sleeves, and the pants will also be taken in a bit in the waist and the legs, but this is the suit. Thanks so much for the suggestions. I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished product in a few weeks.
 

Nicola

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So what size did you end up with?
 

hermes man

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alot of athletes of those NBA etc athletes wear giorgio armani

maybe u should start looking in that direction..
 

malat

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Originally Posted by Nicola
So what size did you end up with?

The 42R in the Zegna Roma cut. I was surprised at how well it fit in the shoulder and through the chest off the rack. It is definitely quite a sensational cut for the athletic build. The pants are the highlight though. Through the glutes and thighs, the pants looks like they were made for men who do squats yet want a more modern looking suit without the full baggy legs of many american suits. I will post pics in a few weeks when alterations are done. I went with a slightly different color than the flat mid gray I originally sought out.
 

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